NecronomiconJules

Interestingly I bought the same rear "cievis" shock mounts from Team Leos. And yes, Luke is so incommunicado that Jack Webb - I got my Quantum shocks from him - had to place the request on my behalf. I hear what you're saying RE: feel - sounds promising. But lacking visual clue I can see the rabbit hole: what if the uprated master cylinder outlets don't match the stock's; how about a brake proportioning valve? etc. I'd rather try pads first, if only to keep variables contained. Jack was the one who suggested Ferodo DS2500s. If that makes a noticeable difference to the stock AP pads I'll be happy. What are you using on your roadwise 7?

Thanks Mike. I attach what I have - I think it's standard for LHD CSRs. The race master cylinder doesn't seem easy to source. Caterham Parts doesn't list it and Bruce is all out. What is the effect of race vs standard master cylinder?

Fellow Seveners, The subject has probably been argued many times over, please bear with me, I was not able to find it. So this is about upgrading the stock brake pads - AP Racing DS25HP front and Delphi something rear - on my CSR. Nothing wrong with them - I simply want more responsiveness and initial bite. My usage is spirited street/canyon carving, no track or racing. Objectives: work from cold, provide great bite, good modulation, and keep the squealing to a minimum. Talk about squaring the circle. The candidate brands/compounds shortlisted from countless hours trawling UK Caterham forums: - Ferodo DS2500 - Ferodo DS3000 - Pagid RSL2 (f) / RS42 (r) - PFC 01 (f) / 11 (r) Comments and suggestions welcome. Thanks, Eric

I am swapping the open diff on my Caterham for a LSD unit. Does anyone know a reputable diff/transmission shop in the Bay Area? There was a place in Hayward (run by Tyrone as I recall) who did a superb job for me a few years back - but I can't get a hold of him. Hence this. Thanks all.

Report (long overdue). Hasselgren do have a dyno, but an engine one, not a rolling road. And although very well equipped, they are not familiar with EMB ECUs, which is what Caterhams use. I ended up contacting Steve Greenald, a UK engineer who knows everything about these and other ECUs. Steve walked me through collecting engine data points and used them to put together maps that I installed and tested. My engine is running well now.

Resurrecting this topic 3 years on, as there's not much out there on the subject of implementing Tractive on a CSR. 2 questions: - which sping rates do you use? - what type of diff do you have in there? Eric

Thanks. It appears Hasselgren have a dyno (and are well reviewed). I'll get in touch with them and report findings later.

Morning all. My engine - a Duratec 2.0 not sourced from Caterham - needs a tune. The ECU is thankfully an open one. I accessed it from Easimap via a CAN mapping kit yesterday. All good on that front. Now there is a deluge of tuning options in Easimap. I can tell any tinkering on my part will likely make things worse. So: can anyone recommend a good shop, or person, with Duratec knowledge around the greater SF Bay Area? Thanks.

Currently running the stock exhaust system. I think it's shot, so I'm contemplating 2 options: just renew the glasspack system (doesn't require bracketing mods) going custom, i.e. a thinner pipe diameter (hope to lower the sound level but raise the pitch) If you have anything lying around, including ideas, let me know. Thanks.

Thanks all. So, NT01s in good standing so far. Falkens well reviewed too. I liked the Nittos on my late 911 but that was a barge of a thing in comparison - no issue generating heat. Speaking of spring rates: rear grip is so easily defeated that in addition to lower pressure, the alignment shop recommended softer spring rates: 200 front, 160 rear. It does help, just not enough, so back on the subject of tires. Here's a selection that this and other (UK) forums speak favorably of. Keeping in mind that this is primarily for dry street driving, how would we grade them? - Azenis RT615K - Toyo RA1 - Toyo R888/R888r - Advan A048 - Nitto NT01 - Avon ZZR - [you fav tire name here] Eric

Hi all, looking to get new tires for my Ultralite. Note: S2Ks wear larger tire diameter (~ 25 in), thus heavier wheels, than other 7s. I live in California - no need for rain compound - and drive my car exclusively on dry public roads. First time I bought a new set I chose Pirelli Trofeo R in 225/45-17 front, 255/40-17 rear. Rave reviews, allegedly faster (and actually lighter) than R888s or NT01s, etc. Experimenting with pressure I got it down to 17-18 lb/in. Well, it's been strangely disappointing. Grip all too easily overcome at the rear, little feedback from the front, not to mention a couple of snap oversteer episodes in circumstances and at speeds that would not phase my VW Jetta one bit. Not enough heat, perhaps, or sidewall too stiff for the load? What I'm looking for is a set that delivers what I was hoping to find in the Pirellis: great grip, progressiveness & feedback. Ideas? Recommendations? Thanks. Eric

Got the manual yesterday and had to marvel at your setup - any info would be great.

Thanks Jerry. Lightweight? According to internet lore, yes: 17x7.5 = 13.7 lbs, and 17x8.5 = 15 lbs. ET? I haven't seen the wheels yet - the seller lives some distance away. I asked him about the sticker, and all I got was what the "Subaru fitment" phrase. If someone's interested in the other set I will meet the seller, measure the backspacing, infer the ET and update this post. Eric

Hi, would someone be interested in a staggered set of these? A fellow in my area (SFBA) is selling 2 sets: - (4) bronze SSR Type-C 17x7.5 - (4) black SSR Type-C 17x8.5 "Subaru fitment" is all the ET/backspacing info I was able to collect - ET 42 to 48 is a good guess. I'd really like a staggered set for my Ultralite S2K, but seller won't split his sets. I'll buy both if there's interest in the remaining one. $1k max; less if I can lower the price. Anyone? Let me know. Cheers, Eric

After receiving the car I measured the clearance. The good news is that at its lowest point the skip plate is 2 inches off the ground, and generally 2.5 inches. Following Loren's suggestion I looked at the engine mounts - pictures attached. The bushings feel fraid and old to the touch. Is that the cause, and what are my options?