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repsna

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About repsna

  • Rank
    Junior Member

Personal Information

  • Location
    Austria Salzburg
  • Interests
    Caterham driving and working, snowboarding, classical music, family
  • Occupation
    retired
  • Se7en
    S3 1.6 supersport and CSR 200-260

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  1. Hello Mike I realized it after 3 years maybe 45.000 km it was back in 2008/2009. The spigot was firm in the bush and oszillated on the the bolt!!! so maybe its good to become sensible after 20.000km or so? Since then I fiddled around with greasing the spigot and bush which was wrong. Sintered bronze bushes are not made for greasing they are made for oiling with special oil I learned this only now after studying the issue. One thing I had in mind was to drill a hole in the middle of the rocker (from the top) and install a nipple for oiling easily to avoid changing bushes. Bushes are cheap. But
  2. I always had problems with the rocker bearing. first after 3 years in 2009 with approx 45K km. The spigot and the oilbush (sintered bronze) got stuck. Thereafter I fiddled stupidly along greasing until found out this winter greasing oilbushes is wrong. I looked for alternatives also because these bushes are more suited for rotational and less for oscillating movements. I found needle roller bearing and this is what Install this winter: full complement open end needle roller bearings B 1212 (ID 3/4 OD 1 inch width 3/4) 3 pcs. per rocker from Koyo but also available from others when you searc
  3. cant recall, it was 5 years ago but I remember this was a point from the mapping specialist and one of my considerations. Low RPM was form me more relevant than above 7000 BRGDS Hanns Per I still have the fuel rail
  4. on the TBs only for a very short time and after discussion with the engine builder and rolling road mapping professional I decided for the head installation and I am fine. I am not racing. I usually ride for several hrs and rev between 2000 - 4000 when overtaking harsh 6000. Consumption wise my driving style of +- 10l/100km (23 Miles/Gallons). Always teh same be it the 2.1 or 2.5 Duratec with 250 hp or the 2.4 with 260 hp.
  5. Season finished 19.000 km expereince gained, I quickly removed the controll button and installed the control pannel and I am satisfied with the position. On shacky road I can fix a finger to the chassis and choose the desired setting when the road condition changes. During the first 1000 or so km I defined the 5 settings from full hard to full soft. For each setting I defined front, rear, roll and pitch damping. I am extremely happy with these dampers.
  6. Doing fast road only having built 3 engines, Plenum, Roller Barrel, ITB, head injectors are simplier and for usual reving with fast road I think it makes no difference
  7. does anyone have experience with this? I have a 2.5 block with crank conrod and pistons 1:12 compression sitting in the garage and would like to make a carb version out of it. What cams? is there a possibility to drive a distributor for the ignition etc.? Or is it a stupid idea?thks Hanns Per
  8. some more feedback after a 850km/3 days blat this week , more and more I like the possibility to adapt damping from perfect road surface to bumpy roads. Even with a setup of full damping it does not get stiff as with the Penskes full hard setup there is still damping. I experience that aggressive driving is less stressful with active dampers.
  9. some feedback on my first few 100 km with the Tractive electronic damper and my installation. I changed from very good Penske 3way dampers for the sake of being able to change damper settings while driving to adapt to different road situations. I only do road not race. With the Tractive Dampers from Raceshock's Simon (great Service) I use the same springs I had with the Penske's. There is turn press knob to make the settings: I tried this but it is much more convenient with tapping on the display. In damping quality I would say both shocks are equal. One has the possibility to se
  10. the pictures in the previus post show at which travel I I measured. I hardly can imagine in reality it would travel more and even if it wouldn touch.
  11. here is a short clip of the dampers sound
  12. just tested att some pictures seems to be safe and OK
  13. thks for Your input Bruce. Yes I am concerned about closeness of the vertical frame tube and the banjo. Its about 2mm under normal load know. I had Penskes previusly with the same setup without issues and was not aware of the bulky tractive banjo. Thats how I defined the canister tube. I will make a full load test to see ift the banjo touches or not. Let You know.
  14. I put the car down today to set the ride higth with the springs. Dampers where locked. Then I switched on the controll unit (ignition switch 12V switched). The first thing I noted was the dampers are not quiet. There is a permanent high frequency sound from all 4 dampers. Might not matter in a normal car or race car will see how it does when the engine isrunning and when touring. Did play witht he setting knob which is very simple to handle. Keep You updated after the first ride. PS: car still not finished struggle with getting the 9A9 running.
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