NecronomiconJules

I am swapping the open diff on my Caterham for a LSD unit. Does anyone know a reputable diff/transmission shop in the Bay Area? There was a place in Hayward (run by Tyrone as I recall) who did a superb job for me a few years back - but I can't get a hold of him. Hence this. Thanks all.

Report (long overdue). Hasselgren do have a dyno, but an engine one, not a rolling road. And although very well equipped, they are not familiar with EMB ECUs, which is what Caterhams use. I ended up contacting Steve Greenald, a UK engineer who knows everything about these and other ECUs. Steve walked me through collecting engine data points and used them to put together maps that I installed and tested. My engine is running well now.

Resurrecting this topic 3 years on, as there's not much out there on the subject of implementing Tractive on a CSR. 2 questions: - which sping rates do you use? - what type of diff do you have in there? Eric

Thanks. It appears Hasselgren have a dyno (and are well reviewed). I'll get in touch with them and report findings later.

Morning all. My engine - a Duratec 2.0 not sourced from Caterham - needs a tune. The ECU is thankfully an open one. I accessed it from Easimap via a CAN mapping kit yesterday. All good on that front. Now there is a deluge of tuning options in Easimap. I can tell any tinkering on my part will likely make things worse. So: can anyone recommend a good shop, or person, with Duratec knowledge around the greater SF Bay Area? Thanks.

Currently running the stock exhaust system. I think it's shot, so I'm contemplating 2 options: just renew the glasspack system (doesn't require bracketing mods) going custom, i.e. a thinner pipe diameter (hope to lower the sound level but raise the pitch) If you have anything lying around, including ideas, let me know. Thanks.

Thanks all. So, NT01s in good standing so far. Falkens well reviewed too. I liked the Nittos on my late 911 but that was a barge of a thing in comparison - no issue generating heat. Speaking of spring rates: rear grip is so easily defeated that in addition to lower pressure, the alignment shop recommended softer spring rates: 200 front, 160 rear. It does help, just not enough, so back on the subject of tires. Here's a selection that this and other (UK) forums speak favorably of. Keeping in mind that this is primarily for dry street driving, how would we grade them? - Azenis RT615K - Toyo RA1 - Toyo R888/R888r - Advan A048 - Nitto NT01 - Avon ZZR - [you fav tire name here] Eric

Hi all, looking to get new tires for my Ultralite. Note: S2Ks wear larger tire diameter (~ 25 in), thus heavier wheels, than other 7s. I live in California - no need for rain compound - and drive my car exclusively on dry public roads. First time I bought a new set I chose Pirelli Trofeo R in 225/45-17 front, 255/40-17 rear. Rave reviews, allegedly faster (and actually lighter) than R888s or NT01s, etc. Experimenting with pressure I got it down to 17-18 lb/in. Well, it's been strangely disappointing. Grip all too easily overcome at the rear, little feedback from the front, not to mention a couple of snap oversteer episodes in circumstances and at speeds that would not phase my VW Jetta one bit. Not enough heat, perhaps, or sidewall too stiff for the load? What I'm looking for is a set that delivers what I was hoping to find in the Pirellis: great grip, progressiveness & feedback. Ideas? Recommendations? Thanks. Eric

Got the manual yesterday and had to marvel at your setup - any info would be great.

Thanks Jerry. Lightweight? According to internet lore, yes: 17x7.5 = 13.7 lbs, and 17x8.5 = 15 lbs. ET? I haven't seen the wheels yet - the seller lives some distance away. I asked him about the sticker, and all I got was what the "Subaru fitment" phrase. If someone's interested in the other set I will meet the seller, measure the backspacing, infer the ET and update this post. Eric

Hi, would someone be interested in a staggered set of these? A fellow in my area (SFBA) is selling 2 sets: - (4) bronze SSR Type-C 17x7.5 - (4) black SSR Type-C 17x8.5 "Subaru fitment" is all the ET/backspacing info I was able to collect - ET 42 to 48 is a good guess. I'd really like a staggered set for my Ultralite S2K, but seller won't split his sets. I'll buy both if there's interest in the remaining one. $1k max; less if I can lower the price. Anyone? Let me know. Cheers, Eric

After receiving the car I measured the clearance. The good news is that at its lowest point the skip plate is 2 inches off the ground, and generally 2.5 inches. Following Loren's suggestion I looked at the engine mounts - pictures attached. The bushings feel fraid and old to the touch. Is that the cause, and what are my options?

Agreed - thanks for the perspective. 4+in is realistically necessary then. It appears that the S2K engine is particularly high, so I was wondering if fellow owners could chime in. Thanks - excuse the novice: what is it exactly, a shallow S2K oil pan? How is it different from the stock one? Cheers. Eric

Hi Ultralitists, I have just joined the loon club. My S2K is getting shipped today - hopefully. This seemingly simple operation brought up an issue serious enough to prevent transportation on a regular trailer: with the engine skid plate installed by the PO, my car stands all of 1.5 inches off the ground. And that's with the spring bases already pushed higher than the lowest position. How low do your engines hang? Have you run into issues while driving on less than perfect roads? If so, what solutions exist for better clearance? Shallower oil pane, different engine mounts, dry sump lubrication, higher suspension settings? All advice/pointers welcome. Eric

Thank you all - that answers my questions. Test drive is tomorrow - there's a chance I'll be certified for the loose screw club. I'll let you know. Eric

Hi, I am uncomfortably close to pulling the trigger on a Brian Anderson-built WCM S2K. The engine is a F22C (2.2) unit, one of the "train-wreck" series bought new by WCM. Upon acquiring it 2.5 years/1,800 miles ago, the current owner did a compression and leakdown test that returned, respectively: - 240 PSI even - 2.5% to 5% I have seen the paperwork. The PPI I ordered yesterday yielded: - 230 PSI even - 6% even The engine now has 4k miles all told. According to the PPI shop it idles normally, doesn't smoke/leak, is bone dry and operates normally. With zero mechanical experience, I would appreciate comments/thoughts on whether the slight loss is acceptable/can be attributed e.g. to instrument calibration/should raise questions/constitutes a red flag. Thanks. Eric

RGTorque: what your picture shows is exactly what I need: the steering shaft goes through the dash, not below it. How did that happen on your car? Did you order it like that? Any idea of the fabrication involved would help. Thanks. Eric

Greetings all. There is a very tempting S2K for sale in SoCal, a late-issue, F22C affair with all manner of suspension and structural reinforcements. To this total newbie it looks promising. Trying to do due diligence I noticed something that doesn't fit your 6'4'' truly: the steering shaft is attached just under the dash. Last time I sat in a S2K with "low" steering there was just too much left knee to turn the wheel. However, I have seen pictures of some S2Ks (board member GunshipDriver's comes to mind) with the steering going through the dash - I assume it can be done. So finally the question: does anyone here have experience with the kind of effort/expenses involved in having the steering column professionally modified that way? Comments/suggestions on this issue and other S2K areas of concern are much appreciated. Thanks. Eric