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I've had cars transported about 5 times. Believe it or not, the 2 good experiences I had were with Ebay's affiliated and recommended shippers. The other 3 experiences were not good, but were acceptable given what I was shipping (beater project cars). I'm sorry, but I don't have records of the two outfits I used that were good other than they were contracted through Ebay. In both cases I was able to ask that my car be loaded by the seller and be the last car in, and that I be able to unload it myself on delivery (as opposed to them moving multiple vehicles to move mine). This cost more because it dictated the route and how full the transporter could be. Essentially they had to come most of the way across the country, drop my car off, and then drop a few more off East of me. I suppose this could have meant I would have to pay 3 or 4 cars worth for my one car, but it wasn't that bad ... the seller and the shipper worked with me on waiting for a week when the transporter was already coming East, and had a few cars to deliver all East of me anyway. I think I paid about $800 to get the car from TN to OH, and agreed to meet the truck driver somewhere convenient for him instead of my driveway. I looked into "one car in one trailer" transportation and it was so expensive I could have bought a better car locally for the difference.

Skip, Very interesting! I have rebuilt many Miata transmissions (6 this winter alone) and wiring harness work and EFI tuning is within my expertise as well. What I am terrible at is bracket-making, welding, bodywork. Of course I can grind a tailshaft as well as anyone, though. Perhaps a Miata drivetrain is not as much a stretch as I thought, especially if I can copy your hard work and learn from your experience. I see you have used the 1999-2000 motor. How did you handle all the intake, exhaust, and turbo plumbing? It would seem to me a 1994-1997 mill might be easier to fit and simpler ... any feelings on that? FYI, this is where I first ran into your project: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/636168/10/

Skip, I had actually stumbled onto your car somewhere on the net before you posted that link... I love the concept, but not sure I am up for the fabrication. How is the gearing with the Miata stuff? Is the Link EFI good enough?

I could and would like to build one ... but not at a "too significant" cost disadvantage. My problem is I change my mind on what car to buy/build depending on the day. I can do anything on a Miata with my eyes closed but I don't really prefer the look of the Westfield. I like the idea of a $1500 210HP Duratec more than I like the idea of any motor other than a Miata motor. (+ for Birkin or newer Caterham?) I really like the more classic looks of the Caterham and Birkin. I also like the idea of the IRS in the new Birkin. The thing I'm missing more than anything is driving a few different variants. I've wanted one for 15 years, and I've finally decided Miatas are overweight and too floaty

OK, that helps with the clown feet issue, thanks everyone. Bernie's avatar has me thinking of another post I saw regarding lowering floors and coming eye-to-eye with the windshield header. It sounds as this is another potential difference in the SV? Or only in the case of lowered floors? My race booties are cheap RJS hightops ... they are fine but style-less and too thin-soled for walking. I bought them mainly because I could try them on at the local speed shop. I will poke around in the Events sections and see if there are any get togethers near me.

6'3", 180 lbs, 34" waist, size 13 shoes (but not against putting on my size 12 driving "booties" which seem to be about like size 11 tennis shoes). I see in the Birkin manual that the pedals are somewhat configurable, and have been told the Birkin pedal box has more room than a non-SV Caterham. I have never sat in a Caterham SV. Does anyone have any "fit" opinions or guidance?