Catie

As slomove posted, it sounds like coil, wiring, ECU in that order. Can you temporarily install the original TB and ECU? Does the new ECU have any ability to hook up a laptop and monitor what's going on?

Mazda, it's quite large (30 minute race). Maybe we can get meet and I can give you a copy of the DVD. If that won't work for you let me know, I'll see if I still have the original from the camcorder (doubt it, but will look).

If you want a video that will convince Al to come to the track, I'll send him a copy of two Caterhams racing for the win at the Nelson Ledges National race last year. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/hurray.gif

I have a stock Caterham radiator for sale. It's the somewhat heavy, but effective, brass type that came with the 2000 Caterham. Make offer. If you are in the Washington, DC area, delivery can be arranged.

I have some information for the 2000. What specifically do you need?

Do you want external, like we use on the SCCA EP Caterham, or internal such as used on the Lotus 7s? High or low front hoop? I think the dimensions wouldn't work, but there are some FIA cages that were removed when some of us replaced them with our current cages.

This is Miner Wilcox's car. Go to this link, download "Chris Fox's view of the bus stop incident". This is taken from cameras in my Caterham (front and rear view feed into the camera). http://www.woundedturtleracing.org/3100videos.htm Miner is fine, no injuries, the cage worked perfectly. The damage is mostly cosmetic, so far the frame seems fine, but the skin has to come off to inspect further.Catie2006-11-24 06:33:53

I've towed a variety of different car trailers for over 20 years. I firmly believe that if towing anything with a total weight of 3000 or more pounds, you need brakes. Total weight includes everything on the other side of the hitch - trailer, car, other stuff, etc. Under 3000, and brakes are very nice to have, especially when a truck is passing or when going down a steep hill. The above is regardless of the tow vehicle. Anything over 5000 pounds behind the hitch should be towed with a decent tow vehicle - that means rear wheel drive, heavy, and a decent wheelbase. Short or lightweight haulers are dangerous when towing 5K or more. If towing over 7500 pounds, use a truck in the 1-ton range if tag, and at least a 3/4 ton if gooseneck or 5th wheel (like a Ford F250/F350 or Chevy 2500/3500). If gas mileage matters to you, buy a lightweight open trailer, preferably with dual wheels. The difference in gas usage between an open and enclosed trailer is rather dramatic. Every time I've tried to get away with a single axle trailer, even a sub-1000 pound trailer towing a 1400 pound car and no additional tires or storage, I've had major problems with tires. So unless you are towing less than 50 miles each way, go with dual axles on the trailer. While brakes aren't necessary on a light trailer with a light car, they are a very good safety item and should at least be considered. Enclosed trailers take up lots of room and you can't drag them into your back yard then cover them with a tarp so they are out of sight. However if you do have room to store them, and a good truck to tow with, they sure are nice! A few wooden slats and some really heavy canvas can turn an open trailer into an enclosed trailer. But the canvas will not last long especially if travelling on highways, and if it starts to tear apart it will whip against the car. This will at least ruin your paint job. Aluminum trailers don't rust, should last longer, and will hold their value longer. But you need to find someone with welding talent if you want to add things like storage or a tire rack at a later date. OK, that's my 2 cents worth.... http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/wink5.gif

I've used Odyssey for years...in a street Miata, in a very high compression Nissan, and in the race prepared Caterham (currently installed is the PC925). No complaints. I do use a special charger made specifically for gel cell batteries.

For our race engines (SCCA EP), much of the cam development and head work is done by Steve Ellis, 804-834-2411. Tell him Chris referred you. He's near Virginia Beach. Another good cylinder head shop is Ladd's Porting near Baltimore, MD. I have a set of cams for sale for the VCT motor. They add probably 10 horsepower and don't require any head work or ECU changes. Oversized pistons and knife edging add very little, so don't go this route unless you are trying to maximize everything. I'd install an aluminum flywheel and underdrive pulleys first, more bang for the buck. In order of horsepower for the money, I'd start with headers, then go with underdrive pulleys, then cams, head work, flywheel, maybe larger valves, then look at the block internals last.

13x6 Kodiak wheels - about 8-8.5 lbs each 13x6 Bogart wheels - about 7-7.5 lbs each 13x6 Panasport wheels, 1 piece - about 11 lbs each (plus or minus a pound or so) 13x6 Minator wheels about 12.5 lbs each 13x6 IMCA rolled steel wheels about 12.5 lbs each, but cheap. IIRC they could be purchased for approx. $55 each.

I'm off to see the Wizard http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/smile5.gif I'll let you know when I return.

Mazda, I have a neck collar you can have. Only problem is I leave for the Runoffs Thursday AM, so you would have to pick it up tonight, tomorrow afternoon/evening, or when I return.

Mike is actually correct, but it comes down to who made the hardware. I've purchased some truely bad AN (supposedly aircraft quality), grade 5, and even grade 8 hardware. For example 35# of torque on an AN bolt would stretch the threads on a 3/8" bolt almost to the stripping point - I've used grade 3's from the local hardware store that were better! Slngsht, call me if you want to know local suppliers that have, or can get, decent hardware.

The 98/99 Contour is somewhat unique in that it had the return style fuel rail and some sensors are positive going instead of negative going (or vice-versa, can never remember which one), so the ECU from the other Zetecs won't work. Translation, if you can even manage to start the thing, you hydraulic your injectors and they don't appreciate being treated that way. The VCT and 98/99 Contour are both VCT on the exhaust side, and share the same head, but not the same block, throttle body (although probably both are interchangable), and fuel rail (definately not interchangable). I agree with manik, if you have a choice the ZX3 and Emerald ECU would be the way to go.

Is the motor from a Contour/Mystique, ZX2, or a Focus? The differences have much to do with availability of a programmable ECU. One for a ZX2 is readily available, not sure on the Focus but would think it too is readily available, for a Contour/Mystique it's a challenge to put it mildly. As my application requires the 1998/1999 Contour/Mystique (VCT, same as the ZX2), my answers are specific to this model of Zetec 2.0L motor. There is only one US source for the programmable ECU, as it was specially sourced and designed for this motor. It isn't cheap - cost is well over $10K for 5, which is the minimum order. This is NOT in the case, and it takes about 1-1/2 days to modify a stock housing to put this in. An ECU is absolutely necessary if you are putting in heavily modified cams and/or heads. A ZX2 ECU will NOT work in the Contour/Mystique. One has a return fuel rail to the tank, the other does not. There are additional differences as well. Cams are available that will work on the non-modified head and ECU. With a well designed header, the output will be in the range of 150-155 HP on a chassis dyno. Note this is cams and headers only, no mods to the head or other internals, so not all that expensive. Contact me if interested in these cams. We have several that were dyno tested, none used more than 2 race weekends at most. Additional power can be derived from cam designs, cylinder head work, and internal changes, but they require a programmable ECU and dyno work. Either you have to mix and match, then test and tune, on your own, or you need to contact companies like Essingler and buy a total package. Most of these are designed for the Focus based motors, not the VCT motors. Hope this helps....

I agree with slngsht. This is the way I've been doing it for many years. Maybe it could be called foot and ankle instead of heel and toe. http://www.usa7s.com/forum/smileys/biggrin5.gif I do consider it very important to use the ball of your foot for the brake pedal to get good feel, and to be able to modulate. If you were to use your heel, you end up using the mass of your leg muscle to control the brake pedal, and it's just about impossible to properly modulate at the limits of adhesion.

I'm hoping for a bit of advice.....Can anyone identify what the driveshafts on the 2000 Caterham deDion are from? I'm hoping they are the same as the Merkur, since finding parts specifically for the Sierra is rather difficult in the US, but don't really know. I'd hate to purchase replacement pieces and find out they don't fit. Any and all help greatly appreciated!