fnmag58 Posted June 5, 2006 Share Posted June 5, 2006 Hello group, I've completely stripped all the parts of off the frame of my 1982 S3 and am now wondering how to remove the aluminum skin from the tubular frame. Besides removing whats looks like 500 rivetshttp://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/smiley1.gif, is there anything in particular I need to know? It looks like the skin is one very large piece that starts at one front corner, wraps around the back and then up to the opposite corner. The plan is to strip the old paint off the frame and powdercoat it gloss black. The skin will be cleaned and then riveted back in place. I've already located the correct rivets and have acquired the inserts to hold the skin in place while its being reriveted. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slngsht Posted June 5, 2006 Share Posted June 5, 2006 Sal, I can't think of any shortcuts to what you just described, but I'm no expert on the subject. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arya Ebrahimi Posted June 5, 2006 Share Posted June 5, 2006 You might consider applying a thin foam weatherstripping to the aluminum where it contacts the frame. This will do several things. First, it will eliminate the possibility of any rattles, second it will prevent the aluminum from vibrating against the steel chassis and wearing the powdercoat off over time, and third it will prevent any debris from accumulating between the aluminum and powdercoat which would be hard to clean and would also cause abrasions in the powdercoat. You can get the weatherstripping at Home Depot and the like. I would use a weather stripping with an adhesive backing and stick it to the aluminum as I went along. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arya Ebrahimi Posted June 5, 2006 Share Posted June 5, 2006 One more thing, I would leave a few rivets in place as you go along so that the aluminum doesn't just come loose and flap around while you remove the rest of them. Just a few along the top edge so when you're done removing the rest of them, you can just go back and zap them out and have the whole thing come loose at once. I think it would minimize your chances of damaging the skin that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fnmag58 Posted June 6, 2006 Author Share Posted June 6, 2006 Arya, Sounds reasonable--what i noticed last night(37 rivets removed to date) is that the skin has a layer of white RTV under it wherever it touches the frame. Looks like it was placed there for the reasons you mentioned. Also placed between the aluminum joints--looks like it's there to form a type of watertight bond. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sugino Posted June 10, 2006 Share Posted June 10, 2006 Sal, Having been through the process, The skin typically cannot be salvaged. There are 5 panels that are welded together when put on the chassis. New panels are not that expensive anyway and would just buy new ones. I don't know how it is progressing, but removal of the rear section is the most difficult. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fnmag58 Posted June 10, 2006 Author Share Posted June 10, 2006 Mike, To date, I've removed about 75 rivets--I started this project to late to have it done by the end of this summer. I see what appears to be welded seams and came to the conclusion that removing the skin was going to be very tricky. I've looked at the rear section and I agree with you--going to be a bear. Where would I buy replacement sections as I've never seen them listed for sale. Thanks for your words of wisdom!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sugino Posted June 10, 2006 Share Posted June 10, 2006 You should be able to get them from http://www.sevenselans.com/ in MA or http://www.rmsci.com/ in CO But take advice that the rear panel is a pain to form around the top tubes. I went through 3 panels trying. The other panels are easy. Mike sugino38878.800150463 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fnmag58 Posted August 24, 2006 Author Share Posted August 24, 2006 So I'm up to about 300 removed rivets and the panels are starting to come off. Im down to removing the side and rear panels. I took the smaller parts to my favorite powder coater and after a careful cleaning we coated them with "Super Chrome" --they come out looking like polished aluminum. For the bigger panels, he's going to build a rack to hold them in the correct orientation when they hang in the booth. The exhaust system has been coated also with high-temp flat wrinkle black. So I'm moving forward at a controlled pace with the goal of her being on the road by early spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slngsht Posted August 25, 2006 Share Posted August 25, 2006 I have to make the time to slip out your way sometime. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locostv8 Posted August 25, 2006 Share Posted August 25, 2006 Depending on how original you want the car to be a means of eliminating electrolysis and other nasty growth inside the tub and a means of eliminating the panel drum would be to do what I am going to do. Have the inside of the tub area Linexed, a coating of around .125 would better seal the panels to the frame tubes sealing the juncture from water penetration as well it should eliminate panel drumming and when you want no interior the car will still look finished. The pebble coating is a last step of the process and doesn’t have to be done. In my case I will have the entire tub sprayed inside and out since I will be using a steel skin. I would be very interested in your power coat results and a refference, a post in technical forum would be nice. locostv82006-08-24 23:12:40 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fnmag58 Posted August 25, 2006 Author Share Posted August 25, 2006 slngsht, More than happy to have you stop by anytime--it's always appreciated to have another set of eyes take a look and provide the sanity check. I'll show you all the parts I have and we can talk about the plan to put it all back together. I've got to get her done for the 07-07-07 party--heck I've booked the room so I've got to go right? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fnmag58 Posted August 25, 2006 Author Share Posted August 25, 2006 Locostv8, Thanks for the tip--I never thought about the panel drum issue. There is a LineX dealer about 5 miles from the my shop. Inspection shows that I don't have much disimilar metal corrosion and I want to be sure I nix it for good. I've been tossing around various methods to take care of it going beyond the "thick coat" of RTV and I like the LineX idea. I've noticed that you can buy a similar product at the local parts store--not sure if it is the same--but I'll investigate. Talked with my friend the powder coater today(Fredericksburg Power Coating). He plans to double coat the color and cover with clear to give me more protection against corrosion. I've decided to go with high gloss black on the frame. He specializes in race car frames and is well known down here--does a lot of work for the folks in Richmond. Ok--I'll stop advertising now!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locostv8 Posted August 26, 2006 Share Posted August 26, 2006 Sal Linex is a two part polly coating which should completly seal. It is my understanding that the DIY available in the stores is kinda thick paint, no tech to back up. I had the interior of a jeep done with Linex and was extremly pleased. Linex is a franchise and I have heard bad of some stores. I was able to go and hang out a while to see them work and see some finished jobs. I also tend to hang around while things are being done in general. Third hand info a friend of a friend had a circle track car linexed and weighed after. He stated that with the linex the car was 20 lb lighter, again no tech and third hand. I am going with heavier tubing and welded steel pannels for additional strength so will have the entire tub Linexed inside and out, with a bit heavier coat on the inside floor. It should just look like I painted the tub with chip guard. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fnmag58 Posted August 27, 2006 Author Share Posted August 27, 2006 Jim, You're correct--the DIY stuff is not what I want to do--just a thick paint that does not give me the protection, etc that i'm looking for. http://www.usa7s.com/forum/smileys/icon_bs.gifAs for the Franchise question, you are also correct--the local store would barely give me the correct time of day. I'm going to check with the Speedliner folks and see what happens. It off to remove the remaining panels--wish me luck.http://www.usa7s.com/forum/smileys/smash.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fnmag58 Posted August 27, 2006 Author Share Posted August 27, 2006 Update, The side and rear panels are off!! http://www.usa7s.com/forum/smileys/thumbsup.gifRemoved them with out to much trouble. I decided to make a small cut on the side panels near the top of the rear strut mount. With a little bit of help from a long thin stainless steel paint edger, I bent the bottom lip down slightly and the panels lifted up, forward and outward. Of course, I had to gently cut thru the RTV as I went along. The rear took a lot more time--it came off in one piece and is still usable. The details of how to remove it would take to much space here. Look at it this way, the side panels took about an hour apiece--the rear took almost 3. Thanks to all for your words of wisdom. Patience is the key to this process. Now it's off to the powder coaters for the frame. Panels(after I carefuly inspect and decide if they can be salvaged) will be later next month. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fnmag58 Posted September 16, 2006 Author Share Posted September 16, 2006 The frames been blasted and cleaned. No cracks in any of the tubes or welded joints. Cleaned up a few of the welds to make them look nicer. Next is the powder coating--two coats of gloss black topped with high gloss clear. Should be done by Tuesday. Once it's back, I'll start with the panels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slngsht Posted September 16, 2006 Share Posted September 16, 2006 are you taking pics along the way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fnmag58 Posted September 16, 2006 Author Share Posted September 16, 2006 Yes but probably not as many as I should--think I'll just bring the digital camera into the shop and leave it there!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fnmag58 Posted October 4, 2006 Author Share Posted October 4, 2006 Well the frame is back from the PC and it looks fantastic. Amazing what two coats of jet black and high gloss can do. Along with the battery tray, I've got a couple of the aluminum parts that are coated in super chrome back also. So it's off to the shop for a short re-riveting session. This is fun!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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