Black Hole Posted June 6, 2019 Posted June 6, 2019 Last week the ignition failed. Thanks to Josh and Rocky Mountain Caterham I got to take my car to the Greenwich Concours on Sunday. Here were the two cars parked next to me - a Dino is quite a low car (and this is only the parking lot) http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=15468&stc=1http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=15469&stc=1 Last night my daughter and I went for an ice cream run and for some reason when we got back I had her check if my brake lights were working (they have stopped working before). And of course, they weren't. This time it wasn't just an adjustment of the switch like previously, but it was broken http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=15470&stc=1 A quick email to Josh and he responded within minutes with the part. Back in service after it arrives. Twice in one week under the dash is cruel
Black Hole Posted June 6, 2019 Author Posted June 6, 2019 I made a temp fix to the switch by attaching a wire to the broken connector. But still no brake lights. A friend was following me for our drive on Sunday to Greenwich and back of over 1 hour each way and he says the brake lights were working. If I apply 12V to one side of the switch loom my brake lights come on. It appears I don't have 12V on the other side that should pass through the switch when the brakes are applied (I did this with the car running - I don't think the brake lights come on when the car is off). Seems like quite a coincidence that I lost the power to one side of the switch at the same time. Am I missing something From battery +12V------->Brake light switch----------------->brake lights--------------Ground (plunger out=closed)
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