My WCM S2k upgrade project.

[charles5448]

30 minutes ago, nc7s4 said:

Do you happen to know the specs for rake? Like height at all four corners and where you measured from?

 

If you follow the story of my WCM, you'll see I'm starting from scratch on alignment specs. 

[MV8]

1 hour ago, nc7s4 said:

I ran some similar calcs based on the wire size and got that too.  However, looking at what qa1 sells in this size shows the lighter springs.  Mine sure look like these ones 

 

https://qa1.net/springs/1-7-8-inch-id/

There probably are seats you can fit to run a 2.5 or 2.625 id, 10 inch spring as stiff as you want. 1.875id is near the max rate available at 500#. You are not limited to using QA1 springs.

[nc7s4]

134mm and 99 mm taken at the blue tape marks.  Note that this might not be so useful because it's measured with the street wheels which has a much larger rear vs front.  225/40/17 vs 245/40/17.

 

Race setup is all 245/50/15 

 

Race setup was used to set the ride height and that was a difference of 15mm front to back.  Front was set first to give the oil pan enough clearance.  

 

Thank you @MV8I am now pretty sure there are cut down 500lb springs.  I searched through summit racing and other places.  The only 1.875 id springs that are 500 lbs are 10 inches long.  My car was ran a lot lower prior to me getting it, so they probably had to cut the springs down 

 

All starting to make sense 

Edited October 17, 2024 by nc7s4
Added image

[nc7s4]

Also you need to put some ballast in when you set the ride height.  Measurements above are with no driver weight. 

[MV8]

12 hours ago, nc7s4 said:

Thank you @MV8I am now pretty sure there are cut down 500lb springs.  I searched through summit racing and other places.  The only 1.875 id springs that are 500 lbs are 10 inches long.  My car was ran a lot lower prior to me getting it, so they probably had to cut the springs down 

 

All starting to make sense

The coilovers are fully adjustable. No need to cut springs and they do not look cut. The allen screws are loosened so the upper seat is free to rotate on the threaded damper body. The allen screws do not need to be very tight to keep the seat from rotating.

 

I suggest leaving the springs as-is and adding an anti-roll bar to the front.

[nc7s4]

@charles5448 here are some more recent numbers for my car

 

note: this setup is about to change because I am changing from 500/500 springs to 500/300 springs.  

 

500/500 was likely contributing to an oversteer condition - which I tried to get rid of with some extra negative camber and rear toe-in .  When the new springs go on - I think it will end up quite a bit different.  Here is a quote from Loren on the baseline setup which I will try to shoot for with my new shocks & springs.  BTW - "Advanced Racing Suspension" in Indianapolis is a great place to go for the springs and shocks should you chose to replace them.  Guy I spoke to is named Corey and he is familiar with the WCM setup

 

> Ultralite typical set up is -1.2-1.5 camber all the way around. Front caster 4.5-5.5. The 5.5 will be a little heavy on steering but it track very straight. I run rear toe at zero. The front toe .1 degrees toe in.

 

 

 

[Grady]

Ok back on topic. The new spring rates work great with the new shocks. Nice to have the double adjustable to fine tune everything. I have gotten the wheels powder coated and purchased some Lotus raised decals for the center caps. If you are needing some good raised logos I have had good luck with beststickers.net. 

 

 

[Grady]

Next project is I purchased a set of pulleys from Non Stop Tuning. Also put a gator back belt on.

 

 

[Grady]

Also gettin closer on the exhaust replacement. Have the major part welded up. Have remove the collector and cut to fit the cat. Mocked the system up to verify fitment and alignment. 

 

 

[Grady]

While I had the exhaust mocked up had to try it out even though it was taped together at the collector. Apologize for the feet in the video. 

 

 

[Grady]

The previous owner did put a heat vent over the exhaust. I am sure this was great for getting heat out of the engine bay but it did dump heat out of the right side that swirled into the passenger compartment. I removed the vent and did a fiberglass repair and paint touch up for now. My plan is to respray the entire car so this will have to do for now. 

 

 

[nc7s4]

Fantastic.  That start up is immediate.  

 

For your muffler, is that a glass pack?  It's going to be extremely loud if so.  May have some problems at race tracks that have noise limits.

[Grady]

1 hour ago, nc7s4 said:

Fantastic.  That start up is immediate.  

 

For your muffler, is that a glass pack?  It's going to be extremely loud if so.  May have some problems at race tracks that have noise limits.

 

Exhaust is a Holly flow master cat into a Holly flow monster muffler, basically glass pack. No tracks around here have noise limits. 

[Grady]

The trunk area was just a tank, bare aluminum and the fuel pump/filter. I moved the pump and filter back to underneath and finished out the trunk with some black interior carpet. 

 

 

[Grady]

Starting off the new year with the dash project. I was able to disable the key anti theft so I got rid of the key it had installed just for that. With that going to redo the electrical and install a key fob, push button start and stop. Get rid of all the mechanical gauges and go with a ADU5 display. Change out the dash to a CF sheet. 

 

 

[nc7s4]

The digital dash is such a nice upgrade to replace all the old gauges.  I love the progress on this so far as its similar to what I did.  Looking forward to seeing how your dash and wiring comes out.   Are you running an aftermarket ECU?  I have an aem series 2 but link also makes one for the s2k.  Planning to add a wideband for closed loop fuel trim control?

[Grady]

No ECU upgrade plan at this time. When/if I do will probably go with the EMU Black. I really like the MoTec I have in my Evora but probably will not go that route for this car. 

[nc7s4]

While you have the dash apart you might want to think about moving that steering column/shaft below the bar it is presently run above.  Mine is underneath the bar

 

With the Kirkey seats I used, the ergonomics are pretty good but I also like the wheel a little lower in my lap.  I did get a small momo steering wheel with a flat bottom which gives the right amount of leg room.

 

 

[Grady]

I did some measurements below the dash and where I have my seat I think it will be too low for me. Will do some more measuring after the seat is redone and prior to cutting a hold in a $800 piece of CF. Also thinking with it below it may not work with the placement needed for the ADU. This project will be measure a dozen times or more and cut once. 

[nc7s4]

For your reference here is an image of how mine turned out