MV8

FOR STEEL TANK ONLY, I'd use a lot of lye and water to sit, then flush, then strong phosphorous if there is rust. Muriatic would do both at the same time but very strong, nasty stuff that can burn and blind you. It's good there is a stand pipe in the neck to help prevent overfill/provide expansion space. Usually, there is a small hole in the side of the pipe just inside the top of the tank but there may not be on these. You can make a finger strainer to supplement the filter(s). Use galvanized or copper mesh (hardware cloth if you can find it small enough) to make it easier to solder the edges. Roll it 3/4 od x 3 inch and solder the end and most of the side seam, then squeeze the end down to the pickup tube od to solder or hose clamp on with an inch hanging off the end. Stainless can be soldered but it takes treatment with an acid for the solder will wet.

Congrats! Nice looking replica. The bonnet is unique to this kit, but I can't remember where I've seen it before. Maybe it will come to me. A vin decode probably won't help if they didn't sell kits here, but try the NHTSA decoder using the full vin. I guess original registry in the UK was around 33 years ago and the kit likely older than that. It would be nice to see more pics such as the axle, front suspension, interior, engine bay, etc. There may be clues.

They are not always correct and not a "fix all". There is more going on than how much 02 is in the pipe at any given moment. They can be dialed in but many have had a decent map, then used closed loop which quickly ran worse and worse with untimely feedback and/or under the wrong conditions. It can be made to work well. I'm sure Tom has all that covered.

A skid plate that is 1/8 thick steel and say 14"x16" would be under 8 lbs. A sump could have guards plug welded on. A little more ground clearance or donut bump stops on the coilover shafts to reduce the bump travel a bit?

Used to be able to pull up letters from mfgs to NHTSA with a complete vin break down of all options. Not so easy now.

Not mine. The slab is too flat. Just fyi.

I did not. I'm guessing no Caterham in that.

$99 for a member to look? Generally the cost is a percentage of the bid with a minimum of $700 or so plus other fees that copart charges where others do not. Then there is the transportation cost (est $1000 for me). If it can't be picked up quickly for any reason, daily storage fees begin. May or may not end up as a salvage title, which can require a license just to be inspected depending on the state.

If the grip fails later, it can be recast in urethane or epoxy resin if you keep the pieces for a mold. Easier than bakelite (phenol/formaldehyde/acids in a pressure pot). Same goes for rubber bits and lenses but the chems are fairly expensive. 3D print and wood are also options.

No. A bit more formal back then.

Install/load the backup copy on to the ecu hardware via the emerald software. It sounds like you have the documentation on how to do that. No dyno or tuning to switch back, just computer skills.

I'm sure turbofocus in NC can help you and he has experience with emerald. Your first focus should not be more power on a dyno sheet but proper afr for the loading and no detonation from too much timing for the load site. Closed loop automatic adjustment should be locked out until you get the base line acceptable. Just use the wide band for real time and datalog monitoring for feedback on what to change. Bike tuners may not be able to strap the birkin into the dyno but they may be more receptive to learning about emerald. They can sit in the pax seat with a lap top and make changes while you drive. Plenty of bike shop tuners in FL that could use a side hustle. Good thing the first tuner guy didn't get to touch anything.

Just following the discussion, but I was just curious about "replaced o2 and associated wiring". Did you replace the narrow band with a wide band input to the ecu? I assume you are running the Emerald software.

#6: "K-A-R-120-C! What's the engine number?" #2: "Do tell me." #6: "461034TZed" #2: "Marvelous!" #6: " I know every nut and bolt and cog! I built it with my own hands!" #2: "Then you are just the man I want to see. I've been having a good deal of overheating in traffic. Perhaps you'd care to advise me?"

There is a discussion topic here about the change back to subbie with the previous owner in Hunstville. I don't know about the original links, but the optional upgrade links are adjustable length; 5/8" aluminum hex tubes with spherical ends. I don't remember what was driving the push to revert. With all the original parts (including the correct length axles) installed, I would jig the hubs to ride height at the original track width (tire center to tire center) and camber with zero toe-in (because it is easier and not critical right now), then adjust each link eye-to-eye to fit without moving the hubs at all. If a tube is too long or short, it can be replaced or trimmed and the threads chased.