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  • Biography
    Master ASE, FAA A&P, Avionics electronics Technician, Mil Spec 2M, Mig, Tig, gas weld and braze, hobby machinist, composites and metal fab, HVAC.
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    South East
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    Fruit trees and vines, engineering
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    Still working
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  1. I'm confused because minisplit don't have ducts, just an air handler/evaporator for each space. Why can't you have ducts in the attic or along outside corners of a low ceiling? Don't forget the vapor barrier for condensation control and another layer of insulation to reduce it. Hip roof can have exhaust fans, continuous ridge vent exhaust, and fully open/screened/perforated soffits to pull ambient into roof. Build second floor, but stay downstairs or bury house a few feet would be the most efficient way.
  2. A diagonal from above the upper hinge forming a sort of quarter window frame would help to replace the support lost by cutting out the upper window frame. A new frame with more cross-section through the hinge area could be locally reupholstered using the original doors as a pattern, with no diagonal. A fabricator and upholsterer should not need the car to prototype; just the doors if they don't bend to fit when installed since the new ones will likely be stiffer. Have them make a few sets for lower cost per unit and sell the others.
  3. You could add joints and a support hanging off the chassis but the best fix is to make a header that fits between the slip joints and the head flange. Until then, I'd dimple the tubes as needed. You may not notice any difference in performance.
  4. If the hubs are just a spitfire design machined for M12 (reduced edge distance and no thicker flange), I'd be concerned about going to 80 ftlbs.
  5. I'll assume your car is no different from other S3 cross-flows I've seen, with 1&4 Y and 2&3 Y into a slip fit Y exhaust. Since a sharpie won't fit, I'd spray some paint on the area to coat the shaft and adjacent primaries, drive the car, then pull the upper section to place over a bag of sand and dimple #3 in the scratched area with a deep socket bigger than the shaft duct tapped to an extension (as a handle out of the line of fire) or use a piece of gas pipe and a short handled 10lb mallet. Pull the column and you can do the same to #4 on the car. If you use heat, it will be easier to dimple but it may not fit back on the car without extra work. The problem with going thinner shaft is the welding at the ends which will anneal the thinner shaft. Better to go after the root cause imho. Most of the ones I've seen are very tight but here is a pic of an '81 cat LHD that seems to have plenty of room. It even has a fat chevy 12SI alternator.
  6. I assume you guys running sticky tires don't locate the upper balljoint with the anti-roll bar. Does Bean still sell the bolt-on kits?
  7. The old mounts look serviceable. You can also look at the column and rack mounting for adjustment. The rack could be shimmed at the front to rotate the pinion down if that helps. A torque strap could be added to the left side of the engine to limit max movement Could be a simple as a saddle strap over the left mount and a screw in the center to provide a fine adjustment to total movement. I can draw something if it isn't clear.
  8. I would not go over 50ftlbs. Technique for even clamping is important. I clean the mounting surfaces and studs, start all the nuts, lightly seat in a cross pattern, spinning a four-way lug wrench, repeat pattern to snug, then torque to spec. Spin by hand naked eye observing runout at rims edge. Recheck torque in 100 miles. I may use a little anti-sieze on the mating surfaces and studs but that increases the actual clamp force so the torque should be lower. I have torque sticks that limit impact forces but rarely use air anymore. Geos and suzukis typically have lower specs. Consider the ifs is essentially triumph spitfire.
  9. I'm sure that is it. 6000 is the right number. Here is a pic. Also used as the rear radius arm mount on the Esprit.
  10. https://www.youtube.com/@hajosteffen9288/videos
  11. I narrowed it down based on fit and best muffling ability (appearance not so much but they could be skinned with stainless sheet is desired or ceramic paint). Twice the od and offset inlet to help compensate but likely moved back enough for the exhaust shop to provide a short piece of pipe offset/joggled to aid body clearance and allow max ground and wing clearance. Didn't look at glass packs or ovals, just round. There are some tractor mufflers that are practically identical but don't offer any improvement. For a bit larger/looser fit to the inlet: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mpe-201-9994 and https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-17816
  12. Mustangs at least to 2010 can have a live axle. Plenty of non-car examples for small trucks and suvs. It seems to me that the weak point of the key could be eliminated with broaching of the hub for custom axles that are splined on both ends. Mark Williams and Moser are good sources for reasonable cost custom work. The axles could be made of a spring-like material such as 300m so the peak forces are muted. If the hub do not need to be removed from the axle ever for servicing, custom axles with integral hubs could be fitted. For similar cost, a light duty domestic axle could be fitted without a huge difference in unsprung weight and more cost effective options for ratio and traction.
  13. Still looking for a deal on Weales' book. Just picked up Ortenburger's "legend" book ($7) and "The independents" book ($27) second hand in "very good" condition on ebay.
  14. The pump must be replaced. I suggest an electric Carter pump but there are many options. Typical pump fuels contain ethanol which is hard on mechanical pumps. Electric pumps are generally more compatible with ethanol. A "last chance" filter near the carbs can prevent carb problems too. Here is a discussion on electric fuel pumps:
  15. It depends on the lines. Generally not a problem to assemble your own with reusable fittings. For oil where pressure drop is important, "full flow" elbows should be used. Routing, support, clearance, and stress relief (no lines installed without slack) are all important. AC43.13, chap 8 is a good place to start: https://www.faa.gov/documentLibrary/media/Advisory_Circular/AC_43.13-1B_w-chg1.pdf The variety of fittings is huge. You must be more specific. If the hose is the right size for the fitting and the pressure appropriate, it doesn't matter if the fittings on each end are different.
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