Handy 'Pop' riveting tool

[EdWills]

Needing to reattach some aluminium panels to my chassis, I checked some on-line videos and a popular alternative for riveting (than air/hydraulic) was the Milwaukee M12 electric riveter, which is designed to pull up to 3/16" stainless steel rivets.  My local Home Depot showed that the riveter tool was on sale (no battery or charger), plus a reduced price pair of 3 amp/h batteries, and a reduced price 2 amp/h battery with charger.  The entire package was sold as separate items that you could add or delete, and was very reasonable.  The M12 will easily pull 5/32" Monel rivets, and also the quoted stainless steel.

 

I had obtained my Gesipa rivets from a U.K. rivet company 2 years ago,, but Gesipa does not show Monel in their latest catalogue.  The rivets I have use stainless steel 'nails' and make a good job, as the nail pulls almost flush with the head of the rivet making them more or less structural depending on the material thicknesses being joined..  Three different lengths covers all the thicknesses of ally that Lotus/Caterham/Arch use along with the 18 gauge mild steel chassis frame.  Caterham/Arch used aluminium rivets on some of their frames and body parts almost entirely, but Tony Weale in his book only mentions Monel for the rivets on both Lotus and Caterham frames.  Gesipa (of Germany) does manufacture an electric riveter, but it is quite expensive.  Gesipa does have a U.S. distribution centre and they offer good advice.

 

 Home Depot offer a 90 day full refund/replacement if the tool or accessories fail within this time period.  The batteries are also compatible with the Milwaukee extensive line of electric hand tools.  Removing the 'nail catcher' allows the riveter to get into most small spaces on a Seven chassis.  If using this tool in the garage where vehicles are parked or are planned to be parked, make sure that you recover all of the nails before parking - if the 'catcher' is not used, as the riveting action does tend to gently fire them out of the back of the tool. Safety glasses are also essential if you don't want one in the eye!  The tool is about the same weight as an air/hydraulic riveter.  It is working great so far.

[Anthem]

I kind of collect tools. I have nearly all the Milwaukee M12 tools and some M18 and pack-out stuff. I like using air and ac power tools mostly. My air riveter is more powerful, more compact and has more controllable mandrel pull then the M12 at half the weight. Used the M12 only a couple of times so take what I say with a grain of salt. Pic: I removed the catch-tank for more clearance. I noticed that the spent mandrel doesn't always eject, probably my technique since it's not my go to choice. I do like the way the extra pin dyes and wrench are held.

[EdWills]

Hi.  I agree with your findings regarding the pin..  Sometimes the mandrel stays in the nose and the next rivet is required to push it through to be ejected either into the mandrel receptacle or on the ground.  I also have a brand new/unused U.S.M./Stanley PRG540 air hydraulic (now out of production, manufactured in the U.S. and the last one in stock at my local compressor spares company).  A fantastic piece of machinery, but an aging compressor bit the dust, so I deferred to the Milwaukee. The PRG540 will handle stainless rivets up to 1/4" with a hefty pull as demonstrated by the shop manager where I purchased it from. W.

Edited July 30 by EdWills