Rotus: I'm writing my own Owner's Manual

[solder_guy]

I've made so many modifications to my car .. it's about time I wrote an owner's manual for it. Why? Kinda a history of the car (show car for the Rotus company when it existed) and now a bit modified so that it works well for me. Plus lots of circuitry and extra functions that make the car kinda different. And I do have two notebooks of notes and manuals of items that I added or updated to the car. So this manual will tie everything together for some future owner if or when I ever decide to sell the car .. or kick the bucket.

 

It's part narrative .. part ramblings .. and lots of detail and emotion .. and delays!

 

Sooo .. you may see me post some text here .. and then edit and add more .. I'll post a final statement when I am finished if ever...

 

Rob

Edited April 5, 2009 by solder_guy

[solder_guy]

INTRODUCTION

 

Rotus Seven chassis #14 was the second Rotus to be built by the Rotus company. It was the show car and demo car for the startup company when it was built in 1981. The car was kept in the showroom of Christopher Custer's Toyota dealership for a time and it was used to advertise the company when it was parked inside a shopping mall. Prospective buyers were taken for rides or given the opportunity to test drive the Rotus. Chassis #14 was featured in much of the early publicity literature of the company and pictures of it are in the Rotus color brochure.

 

BRIEF ROTUS HISTORY

 

Christopher Custer, a distant nephew of George Custer, became a fan of the Lotus Seven when he purchased one for his wife. But he found that he had to frequently service it for it was always breaking down. He became interested in building his own Lotus car when he became fascinated with the reliability of the new dual-overhead cam Toyota Corolla and Celica engines and drivetrain of the seventies. The name Rotus came from a conversation that Custer had with a Japanese Toyota engineer who could not pronounce, "Lotus." He kept on saying "Rotus" instead! Then Custer discovered that Rotus means "to turn" in Latin. Thus the company was so named! The Rotus Company of Maryland built about 60 cars throughout the eighties and into the mid nineties. Rotus also offered replacement Lotus Seven series 2 chassis to Seven owners who experienced frame fatigue or failure.

 

CHASSIS #14 HISTORY

 

At some time the car was sold. The owner brought the car back to Rotus to be serviced. The history is that the owner subseqently died and his widow refused to pay Custer for repair services done to the car. Thus Custer placed a mechanic's lean on the car and it legally returned to his possession. Per Dennis Hedges of Short Mountain Enterprises, Custer did spend alot of time tuning and synchronizing the two carburettors. But it was driven very little and it languished outside mostly unattended for eight years. Some time in 2003 Custer and Hedges put fresh gas in the fuel tank and got it running again .. although roughly. It was assmed that there was a stuck valve. Thus the car was weather worn after being left outside for many years at the time of Custer's death in 2004. It and Mazda's chassis #2 were part of the estate sale offered by Custer's son, Tim, in the summer of 2005. I chose Rotus because I have always owned Celicas and I have alot of personal history in fixing them myself.

 

After Mazda purchased chassis #2 now called FRANKN7, I purchased Chassis #14. Mazda's car was towed to Dennis Hedges' shop to be serviced first. Later my car was towed in middle fall to Dennis' shop. There the head was pulled off and sent to a racing shop to be remilled and new valves installed. Additional work included a new wiring harness with modern fusebox and installation of a VDO electronic speedometer and sensor. The two carburettors were sent to me which I rebuilt with new parts. Dennis also replaced the distributor. After many delays which seemed endless, I arranged for the car to be shipped to me in early fall 2006! (If I had known that the car would take so long to be serviced at Dennis' shop I might not have bought it. But I created more delays for myself as the story goes on later.)

 

SHEER BOREDOM

 

During the long wait I researched many of the Rotus parts list which was posted on the USA7s website. But I was faced with a lack of information as I had yet to lay eyes on the car I had purchased! So I bought lots of items that I thought I would use someday on the car: indicator lights for the dash; LED torpedo lights for the clamshell fenders; and what about mirrors?

 

I would drive by motorcycle shops and walk through their display rooms just looking at the sideview mirrors. Eventually I stumbled on the Muth Signal Mirror website which features a pair of LED signal mirrors for motorcycles. Safety versus cost. These signal mirrors were expensive: $299 via internet purchase. Well I subsequently stumbled on an eBay auction for one Muth Signal mirror (RH side only) which I got as the only bidder for $25! So my hunt was on for the LH side one. So I watched and waited. One day I did a google search for these mirrors for sale. Up popped a classified ad for three of the mirrors which I got for $150. As I waited for the package to arrive, I wondered, will I end up with three RH mirrors and one LH one OR two pair of mirrors? As luck would have it I ended up with two pair. I auctioned off the extra pair on eBay for $150.

 

The issue with the Muth mirrors is that the wires run down the mirror support stem in a gutter. But to properly mount the mirrors on the car I would have to invert the support stems and expose the gutter and wires on top to have the mirrors come "out" from the side of the car and "up". So I asked a local machine shop to mill two custom pieces of aluminum to fit into and fill the exposed gutters and have grooves inside for the wires. The Muth company supplied two extra mirror screw plugs to secure the aluminum filler in place. I mailed the two mirrors to Dennis to install.

 

An option for the signal mirrors is to incorporate a circuit to make the mirrors act as an extra pair of brake lights. I have yet to see a car on the road that has this feature. The Muth Signal Mirror company offers two circuits to do this. One is the more expensive multi-function module for $125. Well enough of this expense I can build my own brake circuit for the mirror lights. One day an eBay auction popped up for the Muth multi-function module for $1 plus shipping which I got as the only bidder. It went for cheap because it did not have the custom wiring loom with it. Not a problem for me .. I went to my favorite electroncs suppler and got all the three wiring plugs and pins for $2.

 

I purchased a new Odyssey PC680MJ battery with screw-on automobile terminals. Dennis welded the metal jacket onto a piece of steel plate and mounted it in the battery well to the right of the engine.

 

I also bought four silver Konig Rewind Rims for the car and four new Yokohama tires and sent them all to Dennis to install.

 

Thus I had accumulated a few parts to begin projects once I got my car.

 

MY PERSONAL HISTORY WITH THE CAR

 

IT ARRIVES

 

After contacting several shipping companies, I arranged for the car to be shipped. The first shipper spent 30 minutes trying to figure out how to get the car into or on his trailer and gave up! About a week later I found another shipper who was able to bring it to me in an enclosed trailer for $550 and brought it to me from West Virginia that same day. He wanted to take a break from driving and bring it the next day, but I was working for 24h so he persevered and got it to me early on a Monday night. So here's this ugly duckling of a monster custom car that he starts up and drives out of this hell hole of a trailer in the dark and I ask, "What have I bought?" He drives it into the driveway and I drive it down to the carport .. sputtering and gasping .. Of course I have no time for two days to evaluate what I have bought.

 

LOOKING THE CAR OVER

 

Finding the free time I begin cleaning and cleaning. I remove the seats and find live beetle critters living there. Never seen any like these three specimens from West Virginia so I kill them .. for fear of releasing them into the wild of my Georgia lawn. The plywood bottomed seats and back were a little wet so I put them in the sun to dry.

 

HORN PIN AND HORNS

 

The big black push button to the left was to activate the horn which did not work at all! On closer inspection I saw a horn pin to the right of the steering spindle pressing against the back of the steering wheel spacer. So I worked to rewire the horn to work though this horn pin. Eventually I relocated the horn pin to be above the steering spindle using a new insulating plug and a more modern Toyota horn pin from a junked car. For better grounding of the steering column I added a braided ground line which I wrapped around the steering shaft near my knees for the best ground possible for the horn ground.

 

I purchased two new Hella Supertone 130 dB horns which I had painted the same color as the nose and fenders and mounted inside the nose of the car. One day I performed a humorous horn test! Two guys were using gas powered leaf blowers at the adjacent neighbors' house. Both were wearing hearing protection. So I blew the Hella horns and both guys suddenly turned their heads towards me. They both turned off their leafblowers and came over to say, "Hi". Great test!

 

BIG BLACK PUSHBUTTON

 

This pushbutton now activates the brake lights to tell tailgaters to "back off!:

 

LED LIGHT ABOVE PUSHBUTTON

 

This was one of the lights I bought before receiving the car. It does three functions: it flashes whenever the handbrake is up; it flashes whenever the brakelights are on; it indicates a low level in any of the three master brake fluid reservoirs. Diodes isolate these functions from eachother. I love diodes!

 

LEFT / RIGHT TOGGLE SWITCH

 

This momentary left or right switch activates the turn signal circuit. Push it either way for one second and the turn signals blink for 7 seconds. Push it for two seconds and the turn signals will flash for 15 seconds. Push it for 4 seconds and the turn signals will flash for 40 seconds. Push it the same direction again and it will cancel the turn signal.

 

push - flash

1 sec - 7 sec

2 sec - 15 sec

4 sec - 40 sec

2x - cancel

 

TACHOMETER

 

The original did not work. This is a VDO replacement that was purchased off eBay that works only with 4 cylinder engines.

Edited May 13, 2010 by solder_guy

[solder_guy]

SPEEDOMETER

 

The original mechanical speedometer that was mounted in the dash showed 4377 miles on the Rotus. The new speedometer was purchased from Mazda and installed by Dennis. When I first programmed it for a measured mile the odometer displayed 777 miles! Cool start of life with my new car!

 

OIL PRESSURE GAUGE

 

The gauge read low when high and high when low. I replaced both the sender and the gauge. This rememdied the problem.

 

TEMPERATURE GAUGE

 

The original was a long mercury tube from the engine block to the gauge. Although it worked it did not match the other gauges and seemed frail. I replaced it with a modern sender and a new guage.

 

VOLTAGE

 

The car originally had an ammeter. Dennis refused to reuse it citing the possibility of an electrical fire. So this is a replacement voltmeter which is reliable enough.

 

FUEL

 

The car did not have a fuel level sensor so this spot had a very worn analog VDO clock. The clock got disposed of in favor of a fuel gauge. Plus with a battery cut off switch the clock would be off all the time anyway.

 

PULL KNOB SWITCHES

 

All three pull knob switches are original Toyota Celica parts from '75 and earler. I found three additional switches from a '75 Celica in the junkyard and placed them here. So there are three working spares.

 

LIGHT PULL SWITCH

 

First pull place is for parking lights. Second full pull place is for low beam headlights. Turning this pull knob will dim all instrument gauge lights including the three lights illuminating the words of the three pull knobs!

 

In addition the toggle switch located below the light switch is for high beams. Push up for high beams and momentarily down for a brief high beam flash. The lights must be on for the momentary high beam headlight flast to work.

 

WASHER WIPERS

 

First pull place is for the slower wiper speed. Second full pull place is for the faster wiper speed. Push back fully to turn off and the wipers park themselves. I modified this Toyota switch and the spare to work with the replacement Lucas wiper motor that parks the wipers.

 

In addition the toggle switch located below the wiper switch does two functions: Push down momentarily for one single wiper sweep. Push up to activate a timer circuit. The time between sweeps can be adjusted by turning the knob on the nearer blue box under the passenger foot well.

 

The wiper function is not used. But the knob does function by turning it momentarily to the right.

 

HAZARD

 

Pull the switch to activate the hazard lights. I modified this swich to be a momentary contact to activate the time turn signal circuit mentioned above.

 

The toggle switch below the hazard switch activates a simulated alarm signal tic through the mirror LEDs. This a feature of the Muth Multi-Function Module and the only thing that works without the battery cut off key.

 

FAR RIGHT FAN TOGGLE SWITCH

 

This toggle switch turns on the electric fan which is mounted on the radiator.

 

CHARGING SOCKET

 

Under the dash is a socket for plugging in the trickle charger to keep the battery fully charged with the battery cut off switch key removed. This line has a 10A fuse on it under the passenger dash.

 

BATTERY CUT OFF SWITCH

 

The red key must be inserted and turned clockwise to start the car. Note that the cut off switch does not turn off the engine when it is running. It does not disconnect the alternator from the engine electricals.

 

FUTURE FEATURE - SEAT HEATERS

 

The heater toggle switch is tied up under the dash. When pushed to the left it will activate only the driver's seat heater. When pushed to the right it will activate both seats heaters via two relays in the fuse box.

 

NEAR BLUE BOX

 

This enclosure has a custom timer circuit for adjusting the interval wiper sweep via a selector switch. I built the custom circuit from a kit.

 

FAR BLUE BOX

 

This enclosure houses the BACK OFF flashing circuit module that controls the rollbar LED strip. The toggle switch selects between two modes: Up is five fast flashes then on; Down is five slow flashes then on for a brief time and repeats the sequence. The flashing mode can be seen in the LED on the dash to the left of the steering wheel. This circuit is activated whenever the brakes are applied, when the backoff button is pushed, or when the parking handbrake is pulled.

 

In addition this circuit makes the rollbar LED strip flash whenever the car is put into reverse.

 

13" GRANT STEERING WHEEL

 

The centrally located Grant horn button activates the Hella Supertone horns.

 

GRANT STEERING WHEEL SECURITY REMOVAL SYSTEM

 

The steering wheel can be removed from the car and a red security plate placed over the steering hub. To remove the wheel, insert the Grant key into the right key lock cylinder and turn it towards the driver and upwards. Then turn the PRESS lever on the left of the column. This allows the wheel to be turned to the left and releases it. Note the two alignment marks on both the wheel mate and the hub. This procedure to remove and replace the steering wheel takes some practice to master this easy transformation.

 

Above and behind the steering hub is the horn pin. It is spring loaded to contact the electrical plate on the back of the Grant adapter. It is insulated from the dash by a plastic finishing bolt.

 

ACCESSORIES

 

Grant red security plate.

 

Fire Extinguisher.

 

A plug-in trickle charge battery pack maintains the Odyssey PC680 at full charge.

 

A small brown tote bag has extra keys, extra fuses, and a table of fuses with numbers for each function.

 

Ratchet socket and breaker bar for changing a tire.

 

Lightweight Mazda aluminum scissors jack and crank.

 

Half size passenger compartment car cover in case of rain.

 

MUTH MULTI-FUNCTION MODULE

 

The Muth Multi-Function Module performs four functions.

 

It simulates an alarm "tic" which makes the mirrors briefly flash every five seconds. This is activated by the toggle swich located under the hazard pull switch and is the only function independent of the battery cutoff switch.

 

It makes the mirrors light up when the brake pedal is pushed or the backoff button is pushed.

 

It makes the mirrors fast flash whenever the car is put into reverse.

 

It makes the mirrors fast flash whenever the Hella Supertone horns are blown.

 

Of course the mirrors indicate a turn signal too!

 

 

TOYOTA 2TG ENGINE

 

The 2TG is a rare find in North America and Europe. It was featured in many seventies Celicas and Corollas that were marketed in Australia, New Zealand and Japan. Custer must have imported this engine from Japan while waiting for the fuel-injected 4AGE to come along. The 2TG is a dual overhead cam, 8 valve racing engine. This engine was supposidley bored out to 2L and features a crank from the later 3T engine. This is a common modification to the 2TG to increase stroke volume and power to 120-130 hp. Some of these 2TG engine heads were secretly built by Yamaha for Toyota.

 

During a show in Atlanta I found some owners of early Toyota Corollas which have the 2TC engines. I mentioned to them that I have a 2TG and they immediately gasped aloud! When I removed the Rotus cover, one guy took alot of pictures of my engine.

 

Currently the distributer has contact points. I have a spare electronic distributor as an upgrade.

 

Toyota 2TG fan belt: Advance Auto #34513

 

TRANSMISSION

 

T-50 five speed transmission for Celica is used here. I replaced the seventies Toyota Celica shift knob with a custom purchase '7' knob from the UK which I drilled and tapped for this shifter.

 

I have both a light weight pressure plate and racing clutch as spare parts.

 

DRIVE SHAFT AND HANDBRAKE UPGRADE

 

The drive shaft has been shortened and balanced by Rotus. The car only had sheet metal covering the drive shaft tunnel and the handbrake plate was bolted within the sheet metal which made for a flimsy handbrake mount. My friend and I built three metal loops around the drive shaft for protection and welded the handbrake plate to it. Now the handbrake has a solid pull. I mounted a small switch under the handbrake to indicate when it is pulled which activates the BACK OFF flashing module for the LED strip on the roll bar. So when stopped in traffic the handbrake will continue to make the LED strip to flash whether or not the brake pedal is pushed.

Edited August 4, 2010 by solder_guy

[solder_guy]

ROTUS REAR END

 

Rotus chose the Toyota solid axle for the rear. Chassis #14 has the seventies Corolla / Celica rear end with drum brakes and no LSD. I replaced all eight lug bolts with longer ones from a Toyota Pickup Truck in the junkyard. This adds more thread to grip the lug bolts.

 

I purchased a Toyota Supra rear end which has thicker drive shafts, disc brakes and can handle a LSD. But to my disappointment my welder friend didn't feel comfortable about making this rear end work in my car. So it is part of my spare parts.

 

FUEL TANK

 

The original Rotus steel fuel tank was rusted outside and inside. After we pulled it I could shake it and hear the rust rattling inside. So the decision was to replace it with a new aluminum one. My welder friend fabricated an almost identical aluminum tank which saddles over the differential and behind both seats and maintains the original 17 gallon capacity of the orignal Rotus steel one. We reused some brass fittings from the original including the two drain lines that meet together at a T under the differential and feed the main fuel line from there. We added a top filler fitting for a future fuel injection return line. We mounted a VDO fuel float sensor and angled the float wire to conform to the angle of the tank for a minimum low and a maximum high travel. That still provides for about 2 gallons of reserve fuel when the VDO gauge indiicates empty. There is a large threaded filler welded to the top and the fuel cap is a PVC cap painted black with a tiny hole to prevent a vacuum as fuel is used. A second PVC cap without a hole is there as a backup to prevent fuel escaping to atmosphere when the car is parked.

 

REAR FENDERS

 

The Rotus arrived at my home with multiple cracks in both rear fenders. I purchased two spare fenders but then noticed that the original fenders are wider at the back bottom to allow for the rear panels which curve in to the rear of the car. I decided not to use the new ones and have kept them as spares. My body man continued to reassure me that the original fenders could be patched up and reused. The other problem was that Rotus chose to use seventies Landcruiser tail-stop-reverse light assemblies on this car. So both fenders had a huge section removed for these assemblies to mount through them. So there were two custom wooden spacers on the outside of the fenders to mount the lights above and away from the spinning tires. But to change a light bulb, I had to jack up the car, remove the wheel and then remove a light bulb right where wires were exposed. Other gremlin problems surfaced when the rear end bounced, the tires would rub insulation off the wires to the turn signals and ground them. So when I would try to turn on the signals, a fuse would blow.

 

We decided to patch the cracks and fill the open sections with fiberglass panels and bondo and sand. They look like new. I purchased two new stop-turn light assemblies from the UK that are used on Caterhams. They mount on the outside of the fenders and there are no clearance issues inside the fenders. I soldered the wires to the wiring harness wires and secured the taped bundles well away from the spinning rear tires. They are well grounded with two ground wires on both sides. (The new lights do not have white reverse lights.)

 

LICENSE PLATE LIGHT

 

This is a metal and glass Toyota license plate light. I replaced the short one lead wire with a two lead wire pair that makes for a cleaner look and adds more grounding for the light assembly. I wish I could have hidden it within the spare tire holder, but there is not enough metal to pass the wires through. So it is zip tied to the spare tire structure and into the cargo area.

 

ROLL BAR

 

I added the LED light strip to the roll bar soon after I received the car. But the wires were zip tied to the roll bar down the driver's side. During restoration I drilled holes and threaded the wires through the roll bar down to the driver's side exiting near the left side of the fuel tank. I wish I could have added more members to the roll bar to make it more substantial and maybe race compliant, but that will have to wait.

 

REAR SHOCKS AND SPRINGS

 

We looked at the KONI shocks and found them to be in good functional condition so we reinstalled them with the original springs after cleaning and painting.

 

FRONT SHOCKS AND SPRINGS

 

The KONI shocks in front were not functioning well on the right and not moving at all on the left. So I sent them back to KONI which rebuilt them and repainted and decaled them for about $300. They are reinstalled with their original springs. The upper left rocker arm had some stress cracks in the aluminum at the shock mount. So we welded additional aluminum there to beef it up.

 

UPPER BALL JOINTS

 

The rubber cups around these two ball joints were cracked and not sealing. I found exact replacements and installed. Both have grease fittings.

 

LOWER BALL JOINTS

 

These are Ford ball joints. A customer had a Ford parts book for replacement parts for classic Fords. I briefly looked through it and found the exact dust covers for these ball joints. I ordered two. I also replaced the ball joints because I found the exact parts for $25 on eBay. I wish I could have saved the two old spares .. but I think I lost them. Both have grease fittings.

 

FRONT HUBS

 

The hubs are from a 1970-'72 Toyota Corona. (not Corona Mark II model) I examined both inner and outer bearings and found all four bearings and races to be in excellent condition. So I repacked all and used two new hub seals at reassembly. I purchased extra set of bearings and seals because I found them locally and cheap ($25).

 

FRONT DISCS AND BRAKES

 

Both solid discs were a bit worn. So I found new solid discs on eBay for a reasonable cost. Also found one new RH caliper on eBay for $12. Broke down and bought the LH caliper at Autozone for $50. I kept the old calipers for a future cleaning and rebuild.

 

STEERING RACK AND PINION

 

The Rotus rack ('79-'81 Tercel) does not allow for a great turning radius. I wish I had taken the rack to a machine shop and asked them to add another groove or two to it. The Rotus rack is a fast turning rack because it has a straght cog pinion compared to two other Tercel racks which I examined which have spiral pinion gears. I thought I had a problem when examining the original rack because of a cog click feeling when turning the straight cog pinion. But it is the design and the click feeling is not transmitted to the steering wheel. There is one grease fitting I discovered on a steering support bearing near the engine exhaust.

Edited May 13, 2010 by solder_guy

[slngsht]

why did your welder friend not feel comfortable welding the Supra rear?

[solder_guy]

why did your welder friend not feel comfortable welding the Supra rear?

 

I donno .. He was concerned about whether the car would drive straight and true.

 

Rotus8guy (John) in Peachtree City has a Supra rear end in his Rotus. I may have to get with him and do some measuring .. and ask some questions. Dennis has your Supra rear end rusting away(?) at his shop in WV which may or may not fit my car.

 

Rob

[rotus8guy]

Rob,

 

I'm now in East Point, much easier access Come by any time (I know we both have weird schedules) to measure and contemplate.

 

I'm still waiting to hear from my paint/bodywork guy 'bout the status of my fenders. He was pretty swamped when I dropped them off, due to the hailstorm that had just torn thru the southside. That and a new windshield from Dennis and I'm practically back on the road.

 

Cheers,

 

John

[slngsht]

Rob, yes, my old axle is still at Dennis' shop.

[solder_guy]

I'm still waiting to hear from my paint/bodywork guy 'bout the status of my fenders. ... That and a new windshield from Dennis and I'm practically back on the road.

 

John! gotta see your car again! PM me! I've got this week off .. until Friday night shift.

 

You gotta see the knockout job my friend did patching up my original Rotus rear fenders! Like new and the huge through mounted Toyota Landcruiser lights are now history! I auctioned them on eBay and a local guy (1mi away) bought them for .99! Now I have "caterham" like tail lights!

 

Rob

[solder_guy]

TILTON PETAL BOX

 

The petal box is made by Tilton and Rotus designed it so that it can be moved forwards or backwards by relocating its bolts for leg comfort.

 

It features three master cylinders originally designed to work on a Toyota HILUX Pickup Truck 1970-'74. They each have a 5/8" bore. Two master cylinders function for brakes. The bias between the two can be changed by adjusting the balancing bar. Originally the clutch master cylinder had a straight line coming out from it. I converted it to a more convenient location by using a banjo bolt setup from a Corona brake caliper. I purchased all three new master cylinders and installed them using stainless steel hardware.

 

BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH

 

Originally the Rotus used a hydraulic switch to activate the brake lights. That switch was tempermental and is still in place in the brake line nearby. I fabricated a bracket to support a mechanical switch at the balance bar which works much better for brake lights.

 

MASTER CYLINDER FLOAT SENSORS

 

I found these three sensors on Toyotas in the junkyard. They are wired in parallel and activate a relay and left LED light in the dash if the level of fluid in any one is low.

 

FRONT FENDER LED LIGHTS

 

The two LED Torpedo lights are wired to work as running lights that double as turn signal lights via a daytime running light circuit in the left fender frame. The wires run though holes I drilled through the centers of the mounting bolts then through the fender mount tubes. I drilled alot of holes through stainless steel bolts to make this work .. and burned up a few drill bits in the process . But it makes for a clean look.

 

ALUMINUM SCISSIOR JACK AND CRANK

 

The lightweight scissor jack and crank are from a 1988-'92 Mazda RX7 or Porsche.

 

SEAT BELTS

 

I had very worn four point seat belts on the driver and three point on the passenger when I got the car. I got tired of fiddling with the four point seat belts and replaced them with some new cheap 3 point belts I bought off the internet for $75. I thought about five point belts .. but I never got around to figuring how to weld a bolt mount for that fifth point. Then I got the Catherham seats which do not have a slot for a fifth point anyway. A future project is to mount some belt retractors in the luggage area and loop the belts over the gas tank cover.

 

CATERHAM SEATS

 

After searching for seats for a long time, one guy posted like new seats for sale on the website for $400 plus shipping. Perfect! He dropped them off to UPS for shipping to me. A few days later I found the box on my porch. Upon opening the package, I found a problem. UPS had duct taped the two seats together and the runners of the top seat had cut into the leather of the bottom! I told the seller and he filed a complaint with UPS. After one month UPS had not yet acted on this claim. Then I got a message from the seller who had a contract with UPS. He told a UPS VP about the problem and was authorized to make a claim of $150. Later UPS came through with a payment of $100 for damage. So the cost to me was $470 -150 -100 = $220!

 

To mount the seats I cut four lengths of steel bar and bolted them lengthwise to the bottom of the car using grade 8 bolts and nuts. Then my friend and I drilled holes through the floor aluminum and through these four bars. We then bolted the runners to the bars using grade 8 nuts.

 

The seats have runners that do not work well at all. That is partually due to poor design and also due to poor alignment of the mounting holes that we drilled. To adjust the seats, the bottoms are easily removed and the runners can be hammered forward or reverse using a rubber mallet.

 

CARBURETTORS

 

I have a green Toyota 2T book which also features the 2TG. It was more valuable to help me tune and sync the two Mikuni Solex carburettors than the carb service manual. I rebuilt both carbs with new parts in the summer of 2006 and shipped both back to Dennis for installation.

 

DOCUMENTATION

 

1. Green Toyota 2T book.

2. Mikuni Solex Carburettor service manual notebook.

3. Rotus Manuals and part document notebook.

4. Rotus documents and Seven articles notebook.

 

TOOLS

 

1. Carburettor syncronization tool

2. Cam adjustment tool TRD 09248-20710 --- CAMSHAFT TIMING SET TOOL GAUGE

 

SPARE PARTS

 

Timing chains, Timing Chain Guide, Pull Switches, Lightweight Pressure Plate, Racing Clutch, Cam shaft, fuel injector setup, electronic distributor, electronic ignition, five wheel rims, lightweight crankshaft pulley.

 

PARTS LISTS

 

1. Rotus Parts List

2. My Rotus parts updated list.

Edited May 13, 2010 by solder_guy

[gerald kenneth bowden]

do you still have yourparts list updated or not i would like to get some information on or about rotus cars also if you have some pictures of any eng. bay instlation i would like to buy a copy of any thing you have on the rotus