Zetec reconfiguration help

[1turbofocus]

Yep thats a Focus block , some one must of used a ZX2/Contour head on it at some point , I have also seen a few Focus blocks in ZX2 that they say they were the stock engine that came in the car , the ZX2/ZX3 later years are the same block so could be

 

Tom

[Jackal]

So Tom, have you got a link to the VCT delete? Eventually (a couple years) I'll be looking to beef up the power on this little beast of mine. First though, I'll be happy just to have it on the road.

 

Any advice for me on the clutch, and how I can keep it centered while I work behind the flywheel? I'm guessing that the clutch doesn't get bolted to anything, and can come out when I separate the motor from the trans.

[Off Road SHO]

Duane,

 

I'm not that tom, but I can help a little here. The pressure plate, with its disc clamped in between it and the flywheel, can stay bolted to the flywheel if you can attach that bracket without removing the flywheel. If you can't, you will have to remove the flywheel and to do that you will first need to remove the pressure plate.

 

To remove the pressure plate, you will need to keep the flywheel from rotating when you put the wrench to the pressure plate's bolts. You do that with anything, from a large screwdriver stuck into the flywheel's teeth and held against a large bolt stuck through one of the block holes, to an old timing wrapped around the flywheel and vise gripped to something on the engine.

 

Loosen the pressure plate bolts in a cross pattern untill all of the spring pressure is released. Remove all of the bolts except for the top one. While holding onto the bottom of the PP to keep it and the disc inside from falling, remove the last bolt. Lay it and its disc upside down on the bench, noting that the disc has an engine side and a clutch side. Try not to get oil from your hands or grease on the PP surface or disc.

 

Now loosen and remove the flywheel's bolts in the same manner and patterns as the PP, remembering to hold onto the flywheel as you remove the last bolt. Most flywheel bolt holes have a keying to them, that is to say that the spacing between one set of holes will be greater the the spacing of all the rest. If you don't want to have to try six different times to get the wide space on the flywheel lined up with the wide space on the crank, make a mark on both before you remove the flywheel. Try not to get oil from your hands or grease on the flywheel surface. Clean all old loctite residue off of all the flywheel and PP bolts.

 

Install your new CPS sender bracket but not the sender at this time. Bring your flywheel back and bolt it up to the crank with just the top bolt and bottom bolt hand snugged. Do not tighten at this time. Now install your crank sensor and make sure it does not actually touch the flywheel's sensor ring. If it does, something is not right. If it doesn't touch, you're good to go forward but remove the sensor out of harms way for the moment.

 

Now grab the blue LocTite and your torque wrench and your flywheel holding method. With the flywheel secured from rotating in the CW direction, remove the bottom bolt, apply a thin bead of loctite to the threads and re-install it. Do the same with the remaining bolts, leaving that top one for last. After all bolts are loctited and in, set your torque wrench to half of final torque and proceed to torque the bolts in a criss cross pattern; 12 oclock, 6 o'clock, 1 o'clock, 7 o'clock etc. When finished, set the torque wrench at full final torque and do it again.

 

Now comes the tricky part of centering the disc in between the PP and flywheel. If you don't have the neat little plastic tool that comes with modern clutch kits, you can make your own easily enough.

 

Find a long bolt, wooden dowel, aluminum or copper pipe that fits snugly inside the pilot bearing of your flywheel. If you can only find something smaller, no problem; you can make it just the right diameter by running layer after layer of electrical tape around the tip of the bolt/dowel/pipe until it is snug. Now build up the section of the dowel/bolt/pipe that will be inside the disc's splined center section with tape until it is snug also. Now you have a centering tool for your flywheel/disc combo.

 

With the flywheel holder still holding the flywheel, you will now bring the PP and its disc back up to the flywheel and use the same process of holding it with two loose bolts. Pass your new centering tool through the PP's fingers, through the spline of the disc and into the pilot bearing hole. This will center the disc on the centerline of the flywheel/crankshaft axis. With the centering tool still installed, you can now loctite and install the PP bolts in the same crisscross pattern, but you just do a few turns on each bolt before you skip across. The final tightening is done with a torque wrench, and I always go around the horn twice, counting out loud to help me not forget one.

 

You can now remove you centering tool and throw it in the top of your toolboxe for the next time.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Tom

Edited April 27, 2012 by Off Road SHO

[1turbofocus]

When you reinstall the psi plate do the bolts finger tight enough to hold the disc but not so tight yu cannot move it , with a flash light you can look in the hold where the input shaft goes , center it by eye and you should be fine , need to get it pritty close but doesnt have to be perfect

 

A lot of times you can buy the pilot tools local there cheap

 

Tom

[Marine7]

Make sure you have the input shaft bearings in the crank recess. The automatic equiped Zetec's do not have them, but the swap to a manual will require it. Its a stock $2 part from ford. Without it, the inputshaft will get destroyed in short order. Luckily, I checked mine and caught it before I had it back in the car.

[Jackal]

Off Road SHO- Thanks for that write up. You covered everything I needed to get confidence in doing the job. I'll look up the tourque specs tonight to be sure I am prepared.

 

1turbofocus- Thanks. I think I'll be picking up a tool regardless. I may as well have it for the next time, and they are pretty cheap at the local parts stores.

 

Marine7- Thanks, I will be sure to have one just in case.

[Jackal]

One more question that my tuner asked this morning, was for the trigger pattern on the stock (01 Focus in this case) flywheel. He will be installing the Haltech for me, and wants to double check the trigger pattern from the CPS. It looks to me that it is not a direct correlation to the teeth in the flywheel, but rather a set of spaced "holes" in the flywheel that triggers the pulse on the CPS each "hole".

 

So does anyone know the trigger pattern off the top of their heads?

[Jackal]

As some of you may have seen, the motor pull went well, and I am now positive the pilot bearing is in (beacause we had to locate one and install it :rant:) and the bushing for the CPS is also now installed.

 

On to some of the other questions I had.

 

I have decided to keep the Oil/Air separator, but not in that form. I have ordered a unit from Central Florida Motorsports for the side of the block as it has a threaded bung that should be easier to work with than the female press fit grommet on the stock oil ar separator. I'll be running a line from there to a catch can, or cap (if it fits) and exhausting the air from that point. The catch can/cap will also recieve the vent from the top of the motor.

 

As for the coolant bypass, I am still a little confused as to what needs to be done. I have been thinking of running it up to the GBS water rail kit, and running it to the bottom bung there. The GBS kit has two bungs on the elbow coming off the block. The main path then hits the thermostat, and out to the rail towards the front.

 

You can see what I mean here:

http://usa7s.com/vb/showthread.php?t=6935&page=6

 

Currently I have a couple sensors in the bungs from a couple thermostat housings I found in the wreckers. I think they both do the same job so I'll remove one, and add a press fit fitting to run the coolant bypass to. Any input here would help, as I'm not positive this is the way to complete the setup, but since there were no instructions that came with the kit, I'm winging it.

 

The top fitting on the top of the thermostat housing will go to the expansion tank behind the pedal box.

 

That's the plan so far. Thanks for the input, and keep it coming.