Zetec Schooling Needed

[sdaddy]

Calling Zetec experts :cooldude:

 

My new-to-me Birkin has a Zetec Blacktop with fairly low miles, Jenvey throttle bodies, Emerald ECU and adjustable cam gears but is otherwise stock. While I'm having endless fun sorting the car and tuning the Emerald, the desire to take it to the "next level" is overwhelming :ack:

 

I would love feedback on the details to watch for when upgrading to a ported, big-valve head and stage II cams. Points like:

 

• best gaskets
  
• preferred assembly procedures
  
• valve clearance
  
• break-in
  
• etc.
  

Is there anything else that makes sense to do at the same time as swapping the head and cams?

 

Finally, from other threads, it seems like ~7200 is the maximum practical RPM. Are there relatively inexpensive precautions that should be taken to make sure the engine stays together at that level? Note, "inexpensive" precludes aftermarket rods, pistons, and balancing... at least at this time.

 

Thanks!

 

:bigear:

[1turbofocus]

The best head out there by far is the Ford Racing head if you can find one , there is a few others with big claims but there not better then the Ford Racing head and bigger valves dont help so dont spend a lot to have them

 

I would surface what ever head you get about .025 to .030 , stage 3 Comp cams , no there not to big for what your doing for your weight of car , valve clearances will be on your cam card and no 2 cars will have the same clearances

 

Stock Ford HG is the best I have found , reuse your exh gasket and fel-pro gaskets for the rest

 

By the time you idle it to get it running good and get to a dyno to adjust the cam gears to adjust the cams , best way to get the cam gears close is all plugs out and do a compression test , then adjust one gear 1 direction and see if the compression goes up or down , if compression goes up then go more with the cam gear adjustment till compreeion stops going up them back one , if it goes down then go the other direction do this with both gears , you want the most compression you can get , this isnt perfect but very close to get you to a dyno for final adjustment which will change

 

You need to have your tune very very close before going to the dyno for cam adjustment

 

Please let me know if I can help

 

Tom

[sdaddy]

Thanks Tom!!

 

I couldn't find a Ford Racing head and am waiting for one from one of the big claims companies. It's been promised to ship "any day now" for several weeks....

 

Going with a Ford head gasket and fel-pro for the rest. Ford head and cam sprocket bolts. I"m also moving from a 2" exhaust diameter to 2.5". The header collector is already 2.5" so the change is from that point back.

 

If I understand correctly, once everything is together and running OK, do a standard compression check on a warmed up engine with the starter. Move each cam slightly until the compression is highest. Separately, tune the Emerald ECU to the extent possible then, once this and the cam timing based on compression is the best possible, head to the dyno for final cam and Emerald settings. Shift at 6,900, soft rev cut off at 7,050, hard at 7,200.

 

Does this sound like the right plan? :bigear:

 

How important is building a stout bottom end and raising the compression ratio via after market pistons for a street only motor? :bigear:

 

Any tips on ignition timing and A/F ratio across RPM and Load sites in the Emerald tables? :bigear:

Edited November 19, 2012 by sdaddy

[super7guy]

Why do you say big valves don't work? The FRH has 30mm & 33m which is larger than the previous hot set up of 29mm & 32mm.

 

So larger valves not worth the costs?

 

Thanks.

[1turbofocus]

Thanks Tom!!

 

I couldn't find a Ford Racing head and am waiting for one from one of the big claims companies. It's been promised to ship "any day now" for several weeks....

 

Going with a Ford head gasket and fel-pro for the rest. Ford head and cam sprocket bolts. I"m also moving from a 2" exhaust diameter to 2.5". The header collector is already 2.5" so the change is from that point back.

 

If I understand correctly, once everything is together and running OK, do a standard compression check on a warmed up engine with the starter. Move each cam slightly until the compression is highest. Separately, tune the Emerald ECU to the extent possible then, once this and the cam timing based on compression is the best possible, head to the dyno for final cam and Emerald settings. Shift at 6,900, soft rev cut off at 7,050, hard at 7,200.

 

Does this sound like the right plan? :bigear:

 

How important is building a stout bottom end and raising the compression ratio via after market pistons for a street only motor? :bigear:

 

Any tips on ignition timing and A/F ratio across RPM and Load sites in the Emerald tables? :bigear:

Yes that sounds about right , that will get you close so you dont have to spend as much time on the dyno , I would also do your 3rd gear WOT 2000 to 4000 runs before for the air fuel , this also will cut down on your dyno time , shoot for a WOT air fuel of about 12.8

 

Tom

[1turbofocus]

Why do you say big valves don't work? The FRH has 30mm & 33m which is larger than the previous hot set up of 29mm & 32mm.

 

So larger valves not worth the costs?

 

Thanks.

 

From everything I have tested larger valves just are not worth the cost vs the gains you get to the wheels HP and TQ

 

Tom

[super7guy]

Thanks Tom,

 

I have a Esslinger head with the 32/29 combo, special stage 3 duration with stage 2 lift, stage 2 exhaust that puts out 185 hp at the wheels. It is time to do a valve job and spring replacement. If I can gain HP or TQ buy going to 33/30, it might be worth it. My application is autox.

 

Your thoughts are appreciated.

 

thanks,

Wayne

[1turbofocus]

My opinion is you wont see 1-3HP and thats pushing it , you didnt say what compression or if you have ITB but I am guessing your about 11.5 + and ITB

 

To get a better idea of what you have on the dyno where is your peak HP and peak TQ

 

Tom

[super7guy]

Tom,

 

You are corrrect, Illumination (Jenvey) ITB and at least 11.5:1. probably over 12; use 100+ VP. 185 HP @ 7500 and 155 TQ @ 5500.

 

Thanks, Wayne

[DavinceCode10]

By a while you nonproductive it to get it managing fantastic and get to a dyno to alter the cam devices to alter the cameras , best way to get the cam devices near is all joins out and do a stress evaluate , then change one devices 1 path and see if the stress goes up or down , if stress goes up then go more with the cam devices adjustment until pressure stops going up it coming back one , if it goes down then go the other path do this with both devices , you want the most stress you can get , this is not perfect but very near to get you to a dyno for last adjustment which will change . . . .

 

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Edited October 7, 2016 by DavinceCode10

[super7guy]

For those of you with built zetecs, what PV clearance are you using or what was recommended for your zetec?

 

Thanks, Wayne