Protect bare frame & parts while building?

[jevs]

Anyone do anything to treat their frame and parts to inhibit rust while they put things together the first time?

[subtlez28]

I just had it media blasted before powder coat (I pre-assembled also).

 

Bare metal should have a light coat of oil anyway. I guess you could wipe it down with oil, especially the welds. But, it is stays out of actual moisture it will be fine.

 

One thing I wish I had done though, is go over the whole chassis with a flapper wheel. There is a lot of weld spatter on it. This makes for tiny sharp points under the powder coat...

[Blindcars]

My new chassis has " flash " rust on it but i don't see it as an issue because the powder coating company will media blast it before powder coating. Great point Subtle z28. Been doing that as i work my way from the rear to the front.. Cleaning up all the welds if needed also .Pre assembly seems like a pia but it keeps your final canvas clean and sweet looking. )

 

Leo

[nick47]

At first I went over my frame every couple of days with a 3M finishing pad. After six months, though, I couldn't keep up with the rust and started spraying it with WD-40. I washed it with soap and water before painting it.

[Gearbox]

I've been using something on my engine blocks, cams, and cranks for long term storage prior to assembly that has been working extremely well. The item is called "RUST BLOCK" originally I found it years ago at my machine parts distributor and it was used for all the bare parts on Lathes, milling machines, and even saw blades. The solution is like water, just spray it on and let it dry. It does not seem to leave a coating of any sort, but obviously it does, and is washed away with mineral spirits. I just noticed that Pep Boys is now carrying the product in there body department next to the evaporust. I have to tell you, the stuff works. I have cranks sitting for years and not a spot of rust, and you all know how fast cranks will rust even in plastic bags. Plus you avoid all that sticky and greasey mess associated with oiling the part and when the oil dries out along with all the dust and dirt that seems to be attracted to it.

 

 

 

On another quick note, I have just started to use another product for rust prevention that I have to mention. Normally I would use POR15 to paint the frame after it is all done, I usually brush the product on as I do not want to thin it down and ruin my spray guns. But often times it would leave brush marks when dried which I would have to sand smooth and top coat. But Eastwood has come out with a product in a 15 oz. spray can in gloss and semi gloss and the paint lays ultra smooth. They call it Rust Encapsulator and I believe it is the same thing as POR15. But the really nice thing is that they have a can with a 24" nozzel to shoot inside frames and hard to get places. And so far, the normal nozzel doesn't seem to clog up after the first use, even after weeks between uses. A bit more expensive per oz. compared to the quart dispensers, but the convienence and application is well worth it. Hope it helps out, Thanks Allan

[jevs]

I ordered a couple bottles of the Rust Block on Amazon. If it works decent I can use it on my machines too.

I have a feeling it is basically the same as the coolant used in the mill or bandsaw. You mix that with water and it also creates a rust barrier when it dries.

 

I trust oils more though . I just don't want oils on my frame because if they don't come out of all the cracks and crevices when you clean it before powder coating, then they surely will when it hits 400º.

[Klasik-69]

For bare metal parts that may or may not get welded on again, I recommend using Ospho (phosphoric acid). It will leave a crust on the metal like a primer would but more durable. Most etching primers contain phosphoric acid. Military rifles used to get a green phosphoric metal treatment for a durable field tested uses. When we built truck bodies, all steel work would get treated with Ospho right after it was cut and prior to welding assembly. After welding, only the welded areas needed to be re-treated. Afterwards, shop primer and then the final top coats. Now, powder coating is the way to go. Check with the powder coating shop first to see if this process interferes with their process.

[jevs]

For bare metal parts that may or may not get welded on again, I recommend using Ospho (phosphoric acid). It will leave a crust on the metal like a primer would but more durable. Most etching primers contain phosphoric acid. Military rifles used to get a green phosphoric metal treatment for a durable field tested uses. When we built truck bodies, all steel work would get treated with Ospho right after it was cut and prior to welding assembly. After welding, only the welded areas needed to be re-treated. Afterwards, shop primer and then the final top coats. Now, powder coating is the way to go. Check with the powder coating shop first to see if this process interferes with their process.

The metal needs to be bare and clean for powder coat or it will have problems, especially if whatever is on there reacts or melts at 400º. I would not want to use anything that will not clean off easily.

 

I would blast it lightly (hopefully no heavy rust since using the rust protectant), then clean it with lacquer thinner, acetone, or something, then run it through the oven once bare. Then wipe it down again, then coat and bake. That's how I generally do it. If it is a simple part with no cracks or crevices for stuff to hide, or a new part never exposed to anything then you can skip the pre-bake most of the time.

[Gearbox]

I ordered a couple bottles of the Rust Block on Amazon. If it works decent I can use it on my machines too.

I have a feeling it is basically the same as the coolant used in the mill or bandsaw. You mix that with water and it also creates a rust barrier when it dries.

 

I trust oils more though . I just don't want oils on my frame because if they don't come out of all the cracks and crevices when you clean it before powder coating, then they surely will when it hits 400º.

 

Let me know how it works for you, but I have been using this stuff for years and am very happy with it. I don't think it's made from coolant, as the water based coolant in my Hass CNC dries a bit sticky, but it may be different than what you are using. After this stuff dries, you can't tell it has anything on it at all. Just make sure when you apply the product you let it completely dry before handling. I accidentally touched an area early on before it completely dried and it flash rusted with my hand print, so this stuff is very thin. I use mineral spirits in my clean tank so I just drop the part in there or use a spray bottle and spray the item down and then wipe it off. Based on what you were looking for, I think this is your best bet. Plus when you get it powder coated, the wash and bake cycle will most likely remove the product as it is very light. Good luck, Allan

Edited August 17, 2014 by Gearbox