2.0 Zetec Main Seal Replacement - Question...

[dhubbard422]

Hi All,

 

I have a Superformance S1 (#53) with a 2.0 Zetec. The rear main seal was leaking, it was not properly installed... and it has a "corner" that was folded over.

 

http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l328/dhubbard422/RearMainSeal_zpscf75f3eb.jpg

 

I'd rather not repeat this with a new seal install and I was curious if anyone here has replaced this seal? If yes, would you mind sharing your technique?

 

Online, one can find different manufacturers of a seal install tool to aid in replacement.

 

Did you recommend the use of this tool?

 

Is this tool primarily for an install in which one does not remove the pan and the upper gasket? Or is it needed if one does remove the pan?

 

Naively, it looks to me that the best way to avoid pulling the lump again to replace a leaking seal... is to remove the pan, then install the rear main seal and then reinstall the pan with a new gasket.

 

Any suggestions?

 

Thanks in advance.

Don

[pi7ot]

I use a piece of thin flexible acetate to aid the inner lip of the seal to ride over the crank w/o folding.

I use a little grease on the inner seal diameter to minimize snagging.

Finally I check that the inner aspect has not folded by running a small greasy screwdriver blade that happens to be worn and rounded with age/use around the crank seal contact area.

A similar item to that tool is often provided with the seal as it helps the seal retain its shape during storage and transportation, but is not strictly necessary, imo.

Just being careful, patient and double checking the inner lip to prevent distortion is enough.

From your first pic, the installer was lucky not to lose the tension spring of the seal into the sump.

m

[dhubbard422]

I use a piece of thin flexible acetate to aid the inner lip of the seal to ride over the crank w/o folding.

I use a little grease on the inner seal diameter to minimize snagging.

Finally I check that the inner aspect has not folded by running a small greasy screwdriver blade that happens to be worn and rounded with age/use around the crank seal contact area.

A similar item to that tool is often provided with the seal as it helps the seal retain its shape during storage and transportation, but is not strictly necessary, imo.

Just being careful, patient and double checking the inner lip to prevent distortion is enough.

From your first pic, the installer was lucky not to lose the tension spring of the seal into the sump.

m

 

Thanks for the suggestions. I've used the acetate trick to clean fork seals on a trials motorcycle. I'll give the acetate/tool and lots of lubrication a try.

 

I was talking with a friend over the weekend, he suggested that the seal install tools were primarily for a line mechanic on "book time", i.e. not the best way to install a new main seal. I will pull the pan, patiently install the main seal and then reinstall the pan with a new gasket.

 

The previous installer (which I assume was the original engine builder...) must have been in a hurry when he slapped the main seal on...

 

Thanks again for the suggestions.