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About tikijose

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    Junior Member

Personal Information

  • Biography
    1997 Caterham Crossflow, 2013 Ford Focus ST, 1982 Porsche 911SC
  • Location
    San Diego, CA
  • Occupation
  • Se7en
    Caterham (1997 S3 1600 Crossflow)
  1. Thanks for the advice. Definitely worth it if I can't find a set. For sure, I'm not going to toss the cores if I end up finding replacements. JT
  2. Does anyone have a source for brake shoes for the Ital Axle? (1997 S3 solid axle.) After 24 years, the sole separated from the shoe. I've been looking under lots of different OEM types, Escort, Marina, etc. but not finding anyone that carries them in the US. Worth a shot to try here. Thanks in advance.
  3. As reference, this is the sump on my 1997 Caterham 1600 crossflow. I think it's original to the engine as supplied by Caterham, but it's a wonky thing that appears to have been cut down from a standard pan like yours by cutting off the bottom, welding a flat sheet to the bottom and bending up in the front. This gives it another inch or so clearance. It works, but it is fragile. Since the bottom is flat, it bends up pretty easily when it hits anything. When dented, it tends to obstruct the oil pickup leading to low oil pressure. I know this from experience. Sorry I don't have any photos of the
  4. Thanks. Yeah, I have the same experience of no issues here, but have more friends in LA now, and will be up there more. The cops can be real jerks there.
  5. Hi, I searched, but didn’t see anything on this. I’m wondering if anyone has had issues with not having a front license plate (obviously in states that require them.) I’ve had no problems in San Diego, but have had problems on a different car in West Hollywood, where I swear they ticketed me because the car wasn’t nice enough for the neighborhood. This results in a fix-it ticket, and I have no clue how you would mount a plate on the 7 without blocking the radiator. I won’t be putting one on until it I get a ticket for it, but wondering if anyone has had to deal with this? What solution d
  6. I completely agree with everything "C" says. Set the budget, have the money ready, be prepared to ship the car, and if you find a car you like, jump on it. I lost four cars before getting this one. Two were sold the same day they were posted. As for constant maintenance, it's a hand built car designed for performance, not reliability. They are really easy to work on, there are tons of people online to help, and parts are generally inexpensive.
  7. I waited 6 weeks for the car to be picked up. The carrier, who runs their own trucks, quoted a price, but would not guarantee even a window for pickup. The location wasn't convenient, so it took 8 weeks to get the car from Pennsylvania to California. Try to get a pickup window agreed in advance.
  8. Keep pushing up the ladder at DMV. I went through the California SB-100 process last year on a car from PA that actually had a year on the title. My local DMV had no clue what they were doing, and it wasn't until I pushed up the chain and got in touch with the special build guru in Sacramento that things started to get cleared up. He helped immensely, and then got me talking to the smog engineer to go through the real smog requirements and what would satisfy them. In the end, we were able to push through and get the local DMV and smog referee on the right track. Familiarize yourself with your
  9. Thanks for the advice. Dave Bean recommended a Smith's gauge for the tach. It's a bit pricey, but it works with the Pertronics and it's British. I keep hearing everyone say the oil pressure gauge is an issue. Currently, it's my most reliable gauge. Fuel sender unit is dying and doesn't read above 1/4 tank, temperature sender is dead with a new one on the way, tach is flaky because of the ignition, and the speedometer is way out of calibration. It's so good to be back in a British car.
  10. Thanks, Good to know it's not just me then. May have to experiment with some resistors on the tach input. I have a tech request in to Pertronix. Maybe they've seen this before. I can't give up the new ignition though. It's made such a difference in the car. Either my old coil was giving out, or the advance curve was way off. It's so much better now. JT
  11. The distributor and coil upgrade were very successful. My suspicions were confirmed and the old Lucas coil just wasn't advancing properly. The car is running really well. The problem now is that the tach is really flaky. It bounces around and seems to bounce more as the RPMs increase. I ended up disconnecting the tach so I wouldn't damage it. The new coil is a Pertronix Flamethrower II (0.6ohm primary). Is the coil overpowering the tach? Has anyone seen this? Is there a solution out there?
  12. Thanks for the help. Hopefully, this will be a simple upgrade. JT
  13. Hey, does anyone know if the Lucas distributor on a crossflow can be removed without removing the intake manifold? I have twin DCOE40s. I'm wondering if I need to add an intake gasket to my Pegasus order. Thanks!
  14. Sounds like you have the right cap. The Motorcraft 100 is what I just pulled off my 1600 crossflow and replaced with a Pep Boys (Stant?) 13lb cap. Seems to work, though I still seem to be running a bit hot, which could be any number of things. Will be checking the overflow and the coolant level this weekend and will know for sure. I would think you could probably go 16lbs without any problems. That may solve your overflow issues.
  15. It's a little late to jump in again, but my 1997 did not have hardened valve seats. I just did a valve job and had seats installed. The original seats had recessed significantly and were beyond repair. (my engine was built by GP Enterprises, and this head was not new at the time of their build.) I'm now looking for anyone's advice on ignition timing. I think 14 degrees may be a bit much for the 91 octane unleaded we get here in California, but would like to hear from anyone who has experience with this who can chime in. May start a new thread with the question if I can't find anything.
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