Jump to content


Registered User
  • Content Count

  • Joined

About Squeegee

  • Rank
    Junior Member

Personal Information

  • Location
    Little Rock, Arkansas
  • Occupation
    Foreign Service Officer, retired
  1. I got the diff installed! I promised myself that i would get it installed before the end of 2020. By my calculations, I finished in the early morning hours of December 34th, so I guess I met that goal.
  2. Thanks to both of you. I really appreciate your help. Dave
  3. I am just coming out of the other end of a few months of family issues that have put me far behind on my build. I am now at the point of installing the diff (I'm just about convinced that "diff" is short for "difficult"). Actually, I have partially installed it several times already, but I just can't get everything to fit. I have few questions for anyone willing to chime in: 1) Top bolt in first or bottom bolts in first? Top bolt first seems logical to me, but some of the build logs have the bottom bolts going in first. 2) What about tolerances. In a test fitting of the top bolt
  4. I have the engine installed in m my 310S and I am doing the plumbing. Where should the connection between the engine wiring loom and the chassis wiring loom be positioned? Instinctively, I think it should be above the hoses to avoid liquid leaking onto the electrics, but I don't want it just sticking up into space. What are your suggestions (and photos) of 1) where to position it? and 2) how to secure it in the engine compartment? Many Thanks, Dave
  5. This morning I heard from Josh at Rocky Mountain Caterham re: the MAP sensor. " Hi Dave, Just got the official word back from Caterham on the Sigma MAP sensor: "The map sensor on the current 310 is designed to be left open to atmospheric pressure. This means that the corresponding opening on the inlet manifold should therefore be blanked off with a rubber bung. Regarding the ECU calibration, you are correct in your thinking, as the sigma ECU mapping is TPS based." So, confirmed. Looks like hooking up the vacuum line basically just makes for a more complicated bung!
  6. Mark IV, I look forward to seeing the pictures, particularly ones showing the vacuum hose connections.. IB Sevener, Thanks for the pictures and info. It's starting to look to me like double sided tape or velcro picture hangers may be the easiest way to mount the unit. I am really intrigued that your engine seems to be performing with no connection of the MAP sensor to manifold pressure changes. John, My understanding of MAP sensor function rudimentary, to put it mildly. My understanding was that the MAP sensor functions as a constant monitor of air pressure/density in the intake
  7. Andy, Thanks for the suggestion about the 3M Dual Lock. I may give that a try. In the meantime, if anyone who has a Sigma under the bonnet could just snap me a picture, it would be greatly appreciated. My engine experience is with stove bolt Chevy six-bangers and pre-emissions Triumphs, so anything higher tech than that is a bit mysterious to me.
  8. I need some advice. Some of you may have seen from my build log that my 310S chassis arrived without a MAP sensor installed on the chassis or included in the parts. Not a problem, Josh at RMC has requested one and it is on its way. I would like a little advice about installing it when it arrives. 1) I know it will be installed on the passenger side foot well. How do I attache it? Do I just drill two holes and use sheet metal screws, or drill two holes and use a nut and bolt arrangement? 2) What kind and size of hose is used for the vacuum side? 3) Where precisely does
  9. The Engine is IN ! I was little confused about a connector coming off the engine that didn't seem fit the connector it lined up with. Josh at Rocky Mountain Caterham figured it out for me. The receptor I had found was a "vestigial connection" left over from when they used K engines, so it can be taped off and ignored. The green connector coming off the engine goes to the MAP sensor, which Caterham had failed to attach to the chassis or include in the parts. It's on its way from Jolly Olde, so you can all look forward to questions about exactly how I attach that to the chassis and wh
  10. It took a little head scratching, but it finally occurred to me that, in order to get the "push-pull" of the heater cable to work properly, all I had to do was install the Heater Control Valve (HCV) upside down (and remember to reverse the hoses when I get to that part of the plumbing). I also have the ARB and the radiator installed).
  11. Update: I have the headlights, front brake lines, horn, air box and heater installed. I had some trouble with the front anti-roll bar. Josh from Rocky Mountain Caterham is sending me a replacement for the end ball I trashed. Totally my fault. I didn't clean out the excess powder coat from the sockets. I have plenty of time for for Dremeling while await the replacement. I guess I could install the radiator, but I don't want anything fragile nearby while I'm trying to hoss the ARB into position. This the part of the process that my wife refers to as "Crammin', Jammin', and Damnin'."
  12. First week of a few hours per day in the books. Wishbones, steering rack, dampers and uprights installed on the front end. The first step was the toughest, getting those four washers in the lower wishbone where there is really only room for three. I ended up inserting the three and holding them in place with a screwdriver while I pounded in, I mean "gently inserted" the fourth. To get the holes to line up I should have used a tapered punch, but I didn't have one. Instead I used the leading edge of drill bits for their taper. I tapped one in, and then moved on to the next larger to get th
  • Create New...