Squeegee

KS, That was my own solution. I had originally ordered the kit with a spare tire carrier, but that never came in, so I went with this. I got a boat trailer license plate bracket, ground off the excess, and mounted it "upside down." Remains to be seen if it actually works.

Got it on the ground! Thanks for the advice.

I finally got the brakes and clutch bled and have all four wheels on. The tires are currently about seven inches off the garage floor. What is the "Staff College" solution to the problem of getting the car off the jack stands? I have a few ideas, but I would like to hear how other people handles it. Thanks.

Josh has been a great and supportive resource for me. You can't go wrong with any advice he gives you.

Here is the routing I used for the heater cable. It appears mine goes through the firewall at a different point than yours. I did have to shorten the cable. If i recall correctly, I used a tubing cutter on the outer layer and simple wire cutters on inner. Good luck! BTW, I love yoir paint scheme.

I got the diff installed! I promised myself that i would get it installed before the end of 2020. By my calculations, I finished in the early morning hours of December 34th, so I guess I met that goal.

Thanks to both of you. I really appreciate your help. Dave

I am just coming out of the other end of a few months of family issues that have put me far behind on my build. I am now at the point of installing the diff (I'm just about convinced that "diff" is short for "difficult"). Actually, I have partially installed it several times already, but I just can't get everything to fit. I have few questions for anyone willing to chime in: 1) Top bolt in first or bottom bolts in first? Top bolt first seems logical to me, but some of the build logs have the bottom bolts going in first. 2) What about tolerances. In a test fitting of the top bolt I had four washers (3 mm thickness) on one side and five washers (less that 4 mm thickness) on the other side. Is "close" (less that a millimeter) ever good enough? 3) How severely can I chamfer the bottom bolts to get them into the thread? I am at your mercy. Thanks, Dave

I have the engine installed in m my 310S and I am doing the plumbing. Where should the connection between the engine wiring loom and the chassis wiring loom be positioned? Instinctively, I think it should be above the hoses to avoid liquid leaking onto the electrics, but I don't want it just sticking up into space. What are your suggestions (and photos) of 1) where to position it? and 2) how to secure it in the engine compartment? Many Thanks, Dave

This morning I heard from Josh at Rocky Mountain Caterham re: the MAP sensor. " Hi Dave, Just got the official word back from Caterham on the Sigma MAP sensor: "The map sensor on the current 310 is designed to be left open to atmospheric pressure. This means that the corresponding opening on the inlet manifold should therefore be blanked off with a rubber bung. Regarding the ECU calibration, you are correct in your thinking, as the sigma ECU mapping is TPS based." So, confirmed. Looks like hooking up the vacuum line basically just makes for a more complicated bung! Josh " There you have it, the definitive word.

Thanks

Mark IV, I look forward to seeing the pictures, particularly ones showing the vacuum hose connections.. IB Sevener, Thanks for the pictures and info. It's starting to look to me like double sided tape or velcro picture hangers may be the easiest way to mount the unit. I am really intrigued that your engine seems to be performing with no connection of the MAP sensor to manifold pressure changes. John, My understanding of MAP sensor function rudimentary, to put it mildly. My understanding was that the MAP sensor functions as a constant monitor of air pressure/density in the intake which in turn determines how much oxygen is being fed into the engine. Based upon this, the fuel injection system optimizes the feed fuel to make maximum use of the amount of oxygen available. Like I say, that is just my VERY basic understanding of what the device is designed to accomplish, and I realize I may be completely wrong. BTW, I am at about 350 feet above sea level, so no real compensation for altitude is required.

Thanks Bruce.

Andy, Thanks for the suggestion about the 3M Dual Lock. I may give that a try. In the meantime, if anyone who has a Sigma under the bonnet could just snap me a picture, it would be greatly appreciated. My engine experience is with stove bolt Chevy six-bangers and pre-emissions Triumphs, so anything higher tech than that is a bit mysterious to me.