Stevensonjr

Lush and Humid, South Louisiana Cajun country

9

I thought I would send photos as suggested. As you can see the front air horn is sitting in a cut out where it just barely fits. The fast taper of the air scoop does not allow room for anything added to the air horns. I might try a paper pattern to see if a cutout to fit the air horns would interfere with the bonnet latch. I’m open to any suggestions to move forward on this. Thanks, Bill

I’ve got about 400 miles on my1965 series 2 Lotus 7. The side bonnet scoop is too tight for any air filter. I have 2 choices, run without air filters or cut out my original bonnet scoop where the filters pertrude. I’ve fitted 3 different types of filters but none allows closure of the bonnet. I guess I could fabricate a larger scoop instead of just leaving a larger hole in the bonnet. I hate the idea of cutting into an original car. I drive on hard surface roads that are fairly clean, how would no filters affect engine life? I don’t race so the Pre crossflow Kent 1500 seldom gets wound up. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Bill

The rear end of the original Lotus 7 was a Triumph 10 live axle unit with no provision for any adjustment. I installed a narrowed Triumph 7 rear end with a 3.63 gear. No toe in or any other adjustment on this axle either, just quite a bit more strength. Some later lotus reproductions or copies have a independent rear end which enables most adjustments.

Just saw the radiator questions, will look in my files to find the numbers. I made the mounts and had them welded on prior to powder coating. You can see them pretty well in the photos, all 4 are simple L shaped brackets to accommodate the rubber mounts furnished with the radiator. The dimensions of the 4 mounts is determined by the interior shape of your nose skin. I made mounts and duct taped them to the frame with the radiator attached. Then you try fit the nose and change mount lengths as necessary, then weld them up. I have about 1/2” clearance on all four corners of the radiator. I cut the original fan mounts off. I’ll look up the radiator numbers tonight.

After driving a few more miles I settled on 3/32” toe in. Seemed to smooth out low speed turns and center properly with no twitchy feel at highway speeds. Speaking of highway speeds, it’s a little unnerving to realize you are at the same level as the running boards of the Suburban next to you!

Thanks for giving me something to blame it on, settling bushings, never would have thought of that! I might check it again to see if it “settled” some more.

I knew my 7 was straight because when I rebuilt it I stripped the old body off, cut off the full racing cage and cross measured every section of the frame before I had it media blasted and powder coated. I had a factory drawing of the frame and when I was thru it matched every Series 2 dimension. I changed all bushings and rebuilt the rack and pinion steering gear. I inspected the A arms for bends and all were correct. The triumph 7 differential and shortened axles were jig built and square to the frame and front axles. The only real adjustment I had was toe in, which I thought I had done correctly. I decided to check my setting on toe in again. I put the car on my lift last night and raised it up to elbow level. The right front wheel had 1/16” toe in, the left front had 0” toe in. The first time I did it on the floor, bending over. At 80 I’m too old for that. I used the string method again and set both front wheels at 1/8” toe in, measuring twice! I can always back off that setting later. I drove the car this morning and can say that it feels better at 75 than it did at 45 previously. The twitching is gone and the steering wheel holds center without constant correction. Sometimes simple answers fix things, I should have known that I did a crappy alignment job the first time. Cheers, Bill

Dave, I did change all the bushings in the car, front to rear. What tire pressure are you running? I’ll take a look at the spacers (washer positioning) on the upper and lower control arms. Thanks, Bill

I called Caterham, told them I needed a series 2 radiator, they sent one (aluminum) I slightly modified the lower tube to clear the forward frame tube, moved it forward leaned it back against new frame mounts and it clears the nose by at least 1/2” all around. Then put a 10” pancake electric fan on it, pulling from the inside. Runs at 80C, 85C on a 100F day

Sort of spendy, but I wanted the panel to match. Not much choice with Smiths.

I put in a GPS Smiths speedo to match my other instruments. UK customer contact was by email and every question I had on the installation was answered within 24 hours. I put the antenna under the soft boot cover, works well. I bought it thru Nisonger instruments in New York

I have an original 1965 series 2 that I finished restoring last year. It’s a ball to drive but at anything over 50 mph it requires constant steering attention with no center feel. I am running with 1/8” toe in (I think). The local tire shop couldn’t align things for me because the car is too small for their machine. I used the string and ruler method to get where I am now. I run Michelin 155 HR 13 tires on the street, no track work, I’m 80. I’m not sure the toe in is correct for these small tires, any advice would be welcome, I think Chapman built in toe in only because “people will muck it up if they have too many adjustment options”. What is the suggested toe in for a street car? Mine is really too light and twitchy at speed. Thanks, Bill

Thanks, I didn’t know where to start. Does the Pinto engine have a decent reputation or following? Bill

I acquired this 7 replica in a 2 car deal, I’m not familiar with the engine other than it’s a OHC 4 cylinder Ford. It is hooked up to a 4 speed trans, also Ford. i don’t know how to reference this engine, name, model number, casting reference. Any help to ID this engine would be appreciated. Thanks, Bill

I’ll investigate that idea too, Thanks. Bill

I was not familiar with a dual pole switch. Total isolation of the 2 feedback sources is a great idea, new to an electrical dummy like me. Thanks for your advice and time spent drawing this up. Bill

I wired my 7 using aircraft wire with 8 separate fused circuits, didn’t like the stock harness with 2 fuses. I guess my main question is, do you put the diode on the + wire or the - wire to the fan motor or fuel pump. Which wire would feed back follow? Wired old style, no relays. Bill

I forgot to mention, I do have a quick release steering wheel. Bikini top and a standard steering wheel would be difficult but possible.

The problem is when I turn off the ignition switch after a drive, the feedback from the fuel pump and electric engine cooling fan prevents the speedometer from recording the trip mileage for that drive. If I remember to turn off the fuel pump and fan before I turn off the ignition switch the speedo records perfectly. I think one way diodes would solve the problem but I don’t know exactly where to put them. GPS power? fuel pump? engine fan wiring? The most information I got from Smiths in the UK was, “that happens sometimes”. Any ideas anyone?

A Jeep type bikini top I had made locally works well for me. I’m 80 and can get in and out with very little problem. Keeps the sun off my bald head when it’s too hot for a cap. It was 103 degrees yesterday here in South Louisiana. I have a full top and doors for cold weather driving.

Thanks

Thanks I think it’s sold

What is the value of a cast aluminum single Weber intake manifold for a Pre crossflow 1500 Ford? It was on the 1965 Lotus I restored. The name Lotus is on the casting so I think it’s an original Lotus part. I went to a dual Weber setup. Bill