Timothy Keith-Lucas

Here's the link to your fire suppression system. http://www.essfire.com/2_3_liter.php

Meanwhile, back at the original concern "I suspect that there may be a transient that is blowing the fuses. These are the blade-type fuses in the color-coded plastic housings. Does anyone make slow-blow fuses in this format?" I doubt that this is a transient and somewhat cynically think that moving to larger and slow-blow fuses is a risky substitute for correcting the problem. The 15 amp fuse successfully supplies the pump in thousands of cars every day. It could be intermittent as in a bare wire touching the frame and hard to replicate, but tracing the hot wire looking for burnt insulation would let you find that problem. An ohm meter across the fuel pump could also detect the problem without your first disassembling everything. I guess my central recommendation is that you find the problem and correct it as a minimum standard for the repair. Best of luck chasing it down.

https://www.amazon.com/TOPDON-BT100-Automotive-Alternator-Motorcycle/dp/B07Z67MMGC/ref=sr_1_5_sspa?crid=1HXMOBZ7LJD4Y&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.aUiPv_ji7h02o1mkedvn3H6xk8UvazBllIquLnC4qGK-Eka6Iw1Z7uae6Ha4SSC2yd7Ia9qIi_QzN1w11fO-c8Bfq-BML2KPghZBTaHyJ2HZNiiw19WMLn8IfV6HeLEIb-CvPiTzYgqAgtL36qezH42jq0NKp7mbwDQ1eJdxWzgq17InOo5Y3vaJ1YFjDGGYuq-CBfi8fxd3ySudiLW7Xkgt0Fzq9C6Eb_GZvyDeECBo1POZzCoKuvFaOjK93k9Zp3-EEI180dKQ4ZnVGbxezN6rt33b0gFpOdbyACE8JNE.Zd11ZCgBU-QL7JeBquSFZgPJbOUq6fOy8eY2ZhXJ7_w&dib_tag=se&keywords=battery+tester+12v+automotive&qid=1782597938&sprefix=battery+tester%2Caps%2C412&sr=8-5-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

Wonderful that you came to a happy ending. Welcome to the world of wacko battery chargers. Yes, do watch it like a hawk, and buy yourself a $52 digital battery tester like this one, which I use both for our fleet (4 antiques, 4 road vehicles, 2 drivers) and a county emergency management fleet that I monitor. Realize that just because the battery charged does not mean that it is any good - it may flop as soon as you put a load on it. Keep it charged! If it sits, disconnect it against hidden tiny drains that will flatten it. Best of luck to you.

OK, ways of minimizing poured gasoline on our cars and motorcycles. But all of those methods introduce more hydrocarbons into our atmosphere, overcoming the fuel recovery efforts to keep that stuff out of our lungs and air. I'm going to stick with pumping from closed container (gas can) to closed container (gas tank) and minimize the spills rather than cleaning up afterwards.

There is no better Plan B than the modern Lithium battery jump-off boxes. They are small and light, hold their charge, and will start your car (or your generator) when you err (as in, being human). We are blessed by modern technology.

It is evident that this is a VERY common problem. We've all done our best to find ways to keep out of spilled gasoline. So have the people who design filling station pumps. Long ago, the problem was worse - you came away from filling your car with white powder on your hands. The powder was lead.

Hmmmm. Automatic battery chargers require some charge to even work, so keeping a manual charger or a jump-off box around is a good protection. But then, the real question is why is your battery going to zero? It sounds as if your car is using a small current when sitting in the garage. Determine if you have such a drain by running the positive side of the battery through your multimeter set for amperage (sorry if I'm being pedantic here). Wdb shares wisdom in saying that your first defense against such a drain is disconnecting the battery. Another approach is leaving the car on a trickle charger when it is sitting. Actually solving the problem involves finding the drain and stopping it, which is the usual process of tracing backwards until you find something that is "on" when the car is "off." Consider doing that before you ruin another battery. Any of your battery options will work after you stop that leak.

Nice technique, Pethier, and thank you for describing it. Do you manage to keep the can from leaking at the can/nozzle gasket? Fortunately for these sorts of approaches, Amazon has various nozzle options that bypass the horrid safety valves.

I hate gas cans with "safety" nozzles with a passion. They are difficult to use and invariably leak all over me. The solution I found was this battery operated pump. You set the gas can on the ground beside the vehicle and drop the suction hose in the can. You clip the discharge hose into (yes, inside) the vehicle port. You turn it on. It does 3+ gallons per minute and has an automatic cut off that prevents overflow spills. Neat, tidy, a full tank every time. It costs $40. https://www.amazon.com/PETASOON-Patented-Transfer-Operated-Automatic/dp/B0GHDNVNN2/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=36VZE4WYS4Q0&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.BoCuWZoWrQCc38XkuwpkL55hlphvatxqqXO5D4CZD5V-ZfTPUM7Ugf899YjRgxHDhHy10H4j4jiJKfES049CFtKaeU_qrkxKTQMLAz7nVvp8If5r6U_XXU6g0ShXTtigkiysEom7iqUBtUU6RdblMgnGMssz0-FkVMjo4IyPI7n2Jj7DVNjxQruNHGXOBhj26uSAeKSY8izIrcOsqlic2lJHhQ1dnV31gIrR76dhMNceoFoaFIrleWndzprORn7zTcVrEfECHlyDVx4LNNTc_gDuwr2PvuQbAR1kT4Fq79M.QV0U1JKCosqZVLE0rPYSgOMdgF8gpugwqd3k4WTdwEs&dib_tag=se&keywords=fuel%2Btransfer%2Bpump&qid=1781350953&sprefix=fuel%2B%2Caps%2C241&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

Could someone with this stuff in their head tell me the specification for the brake shoes for a 1962 Series 2 America? They appear very ordinary, but as usual the parts dealers name the more common cars that use them but not the Lotus Seven. Thanks.

Bravo, Speedwagon. Therein lies a good point. The local mechanic has invested in tire changing tools, and some others I can't afford or rarely need. Farm out those jobs. Why he can't bring himself to buy even a torque bar for that demolition wrench is beyond me.

Part of owning a Seven is not handing it to a local mechanic. At least the pre-Caterham examples are so simple that it is difficult for me to come up with a scenario where I would. My local mechanic takes very good care of my Miata with my only complaint being the air hammer his resident Neanderthal uses to over-torque my lug nuts. The problems that are a challenge to me, such as 64 year-old Lucas wiring behind the scuttle, would take him just as long to figure out as it has me, and for everything else I have you folks, bless you. Sevens are a learning experience, not just a driving experience. OK, I'll let him mount tires, but onto rims, not onto the Seven.

It took me only 15 minutes to remove my windscreen and scuttle last week when flipping a switch resulted in bunches of Lucas electricity (smoke) escaped my under-panel wiring, given that last year I converted all those rivets to rivet nuts. Do allow me to suggest using stainless steel rather than aluminum nuts. They grip tighter than the aluminum version. That means that they are less likely to spin when you tighten the bolt. A spinning rivet nut is a real PITA, because it is really difficult to remove/replace. As a related point, I also recommend using a drill with adjustable torque, set pretty low, to tighten the bolts, as additional protection against spinning one.

That one is easy for us suuthern types. Pour-sha is close to Pour, suh (sir). How about coupe versus cou-pay?