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Dwight

Registered User
  • Content Count

    8
  • Joined

About Dwight

  • Rank
    Junior Member

Personal Information

  • Location
    Hollidaysburg, PA
  • Se7en
    2001 Caterham Super 7 Zetec
  1. Thanks so much for your knowledgeable responses. I’ve decided to just reinstall the plug with the oil at the level of the plug opening. I’ve got to tell you, however, it was a “bear” getting the plug back in with the very limited clearance. It required further extensive grinding of a 10mm hex key to facilitate the process, but it’s done. Thanks again.
  2. I recently wanted to check the fluid level of my Sierra 5 speed, and after considerable effort with a modified hex wrench I was able to open the fill plug. My understanding was that the proper level should be such that it comes up to the opening of the fill hole. However, upon removing the plug, a substantial amount of fluid came out. Does this mean the trans was overfilled? Can someone with some experience in this regard please provide some guidance. Thanks so much. Dwight
  3. Best of both worlds: get rid of ugly utility trailer type stock tail lights and get attractive LED running, brake, and turn signals. Covers existing fender/wing holes. Cost new over $350 not including gasket and hardware. Will sell for $250.
  4. F For everyone who’s been following this post, I’ve discovered the problem. Demon Tweeks shows only one stanchion on their website and in their catalogue, but I’ve discovered that there are two different configurations: one for use with the wiper posts (which I need) and one without. The one offered by DT is the one for use without the posts. I’ve explained this to DT and I’m hopeful they’ll refund my purchase and also cover return postage fees. ‘Will let everyone know.
  5. Thanks for your response. It’s very helpful to interact with someone with the same item. I considered the “backwards” option and it would seem to fit in that configuration but the windshield wiper posts would have to be removed and I do not want to do that. Does yours allow you to keep the posts? My intention as previously noted is to be able to switch from the stanchion with the Brooklands screens to the stock windscreen.
  6. Very nice workmanship on your project, but it really has no relevance to my application. The intent with my car is not to have any fasteners through the scuttle and to be able to swap back and forth the “stock” windscreen with the Brooklands screens using just the four (two on each side) stock mountings. Thanks anyway.
  7. I do not have photos, but I will try to determine how to post some. However, the explanation should be clear. The situation is that, in the new stanchion, the width of the section with the rear holes is too narrow for the scuttle and the front hole width is too wide—just the opposite of what it should be. By width, I am referring to side-to-side, left to right. It may be able to be re-bent, but it would seem to take considerable effort and I’m reluctant to try anything that may ruin the stanchion.
  8. I recently received a new stanchion and Brooklands screens from Demon Tweeks. As it turns out, the stanchion’s base on each side is angled incorrectly, i.e. it does not conform to the scuttle. The rear mounting hole location is considerably narrower than the front mounting hole, contrary to the form of the scuttle. Has anyone else had this experience and should I attempt to bend the stanchion to conform to the scuttle. I’m reluctant to try to reshape the stanchion as it may distort its overall shape. I’ve tried to contact Demon Tweeks for some guidance, but i’ve not received a helpful res
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