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Dwight

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Everything posted by Dwight

  1. CarlB, Thanks for your response. In a fairly long lifetime I’ve had numerous sports and racing cars on which I’ve done virtually all the maintenance. However, this is my first fuel-injected, computerized sports car (which I love) and I really don’t miss valve adjusting, setting timing, adjusting carbs, etc. But, as a result, my knowledge of modern electronics is sadly lacking. That being said, it appears to me that you don’t have any 02 sensors on your setup. Don’t I have to maintain them in some manner for proper computer function?
  2. I have a 2001 S3 with a 2.0 liter Zetec with which I’m very pleased. It is, without doubt, the most fun of the many sports cars I’ve owned. The car has an integral muffler/catalytic converter with O2 sensors which work perfectly and result in a fairly subdued sound; however, I’d actually like to have a significantly more aggressive exhaust note. Is there anyone on this site who shares my perspective and has found an alternative workable setup to achieve this goal.
  3. I just removed cloth seats with runners and headrests from my S3. One seat had a broken frame and disintegrating padding but the other one is in quite good condition. I replaced both of them so they’d match. Let me know if you’re interested and I’ll send photos. I’m in PA so there’d obviously be shipping costs as well as the seat itself.
  4. Dwight

    Seats

    Thank you for the very helpful and knowledgeable response. I will consider your suggestions. It appears, however, that there’s liberal use of glue on the fabric. In your opinion, can the glued sections be separated and re-glued without damage?
  5. Dwight

    Seats

    My Caterham’s seats seem to sit in a way that their uprights are slanted inboard or outboard depending on which one you’re viewing. Is there an intentional slant, i.e., a left and right seat? Or have the seat back uprights just gotten “tweaked” and can be realigned to be equal with some leverage?
  6. Really nothing to see here. Just the new standard bar which I swapped for the FIA bar with its forward slope and cross brace. The new bar is more upright, has no cross brace, and slants inward following the profile of the windscreen (although I have Brooklands screens). The only issue I had to contend with was fabricating bolts which mount upward into the roll bar bosses above the rear shock. The previous bar did not have these bolts installed, as is often the case, because the clearance is very minimal, Overall, I’ve achieved my goal.
  7. Follow-up: I’ve obtained and installed a standard roll over bar meeting my desired appearance. I’ve also decided to keep my original FIA bar with petty strut in the event someone would want to use the car in competition in the future. Josh Robbins from Rocky Mountain Caterham was more than helpful with the process. I would heartily recommend Josh for anything Caterham related.
  8. Dwight

    Roll over

    Thanks for the responses but I’ve received the information I needed.
  9. Dwight

    Roll over

    I am swapping roll bars on my 2001 S3 Imperial deDion Caterham. The bar which I’ve removed did not have the main bolts which are installed upward above the rear damper into the roll bar boss. I would like to include this bolt in my new bar; does anyone have the specifications for that bolt? Does it depend if the car is metric or imperial?
  10. I’m thinking our roll bars may not be compatible. See photos of my upright mounting base; it has a large flat plate on which the bar is welded and this appears to be quite different than yours. I’m learning that there are a myriad of bars and finding one that’s suitable may be very difficult.
  11. So very kind of you. Could you please measure center to center of upright bars at point of attachment to frame and, if possible, photos of attachment points of uprights and rear brace. Ever so grateful, Dwight
  12. I stand corrected. I was under the impression that all bars with diagonal bracing were FIA. I learn something new every time I get on this site. By the way, concerning my car, it has de Dion rear suspension. I don’t know if it’s metric or imperial. I’ve tried to research that with the suggestion of looking at the horizontal fore/aft member to which the ARB attaches. Mine doesn’t seem to fit the description of being either totally cylindrical or a combination of square and cylinder. Mine is cylindrical, but with indentations as shown on the attached photo. Or am I looking at the wrong member?
  13. I have a 2001 Caterham S3 and I am looking for a non-FIA low roll bar with 90 degree uprights and no diagonal bracing. I will not be racing and I’m more interested in a vintage appearance similar to early Lotus/Caterham. Good, used condition would be fine. I’m in central Pennsylvania and accessability within a day’s drive would be preferable to avoid shipping costs.
  14. NSXguy, After looking more closely at your member photo, it appears that your roll bar is an FIA bar like mine. As I previously mentioned I’m looking for a standard bar which is lower and does not have a diagonal brace. I won’t be racing my seven and I’m after a more vintage look; hence, my search for a standard bar.
  15. NSXguy, I raced in SCCA for nearly thirty years in formula cars and I will not be racing my Seven which currently has an FIA bar with a single cross bar and detachable forward brace. At this point in my life I’m primarily interested in a more vintage appearance with my 2001 S3 (example: I removed modern taillights and mounted Wingards, as well as Brooklands screens, etc.). If your standard bar is lower and sits at a 90 degree upright position, perhaps we could do a swap and you’d have your FIA configuration and I’d have the more vintage appearance I’m seeking on mine. Let me know if you’re interested.
  16. Question: Is the standard S3 roll bar lower than the competition version with the cross brace(s)? And do the upright portions on the standard version sit straight up (i.e. 90 degree angle) rather than angling forward?
  17. Christopher, You’ve got me beat by one year, and I too competed at the Glen but in Formula Vee. Attached is my pass to the the U.S. Grand Prix—$5 for entry and camping.
  18. Great video. I was there as a spectator with the Lotus Owners of New York with my Caterham. I also left early on Sunday because of the inclement weather.
  19. I have been running Brooklands screens for several years and I love them. I think the appearance is great and, yes, there is much less turbulence than with the stock windshield. I do use eyewear of some type for safety’s sake.
  20. I recently towed my Caterham on an open trailer in pouring rain without the top (hood). The installed tonneau kept the cabin quite dry; however, I was surprised to find a very wet boot although the cover was snapped shut. My only supposition is that rain ran down the roll bar struts into the boot. Is this anyone else’s experience? And if so, is there a solution?
  21. The lights are still available. I have not been active in my efforts to sell them. By the way, these are very high quality fixtures. They are not some sub-standard eBay offering. They were purchased from a reputable source, Car Builder Solutions. One can research each item: The housings were $45.72 each x 2 = $91.54; and the LED stop/tail lenses and indicator lenses were $65.39 each x 4 = $261.56; this does not include the hardware, gasket, or overseas shipping. So the $150 charge is more than reasonable.
  22. Vin, ’Nearly 60 degrees here today so I went to my garage and removed my tail light lenses and the LED bulbs to get the part numbers from the LEDs. Unfortunately, they have no numbers on them. I remember now that when I originally installed the LEDs, I went to the SuperBrightLEDs site and cross-referenced the original incandescent bulbs. They have good descriptions and dimensions of all their bulbs. Good luck. BTW, ‘love the work you’ve done so far on your Seven. When you say it was hanging from the rafters, do you mean in pieces, or are you rebuilding and restoring a completed car?
  23. Good advice from Nick regarding the turn signal flasher. Showing my age, when I decided to switch to LEDs, I thought I had to install some kind of capacitors to achieve the appropriate flashing intervals. With a little more research, and acknowledgement that virtually all modern vehicles have LED lights, I realized flashers are now available specifically for use with LEDs. So, I simply took my old flasher to the local parts store and asked for a modern LED flasher with the same configuration. Voila! Works perfectly with my new LED bulbs. Also, the site to which Nick refers, superbrightleds.com is the source I successfully used for all my LEDs. They’ve been very good to work with.
  24. Vin, The LED bulbs simply screw into the stock sockets. The company from whom I got the bulbs suggests using bulbs whose colors are the same as the lenses, and that’s what I did, i.e., red in red, yellow (amber) in yellow.. They contend that they’re brighter with complimentary colors. I’ll open the lights and pull the LED bulbs to get their stock numbers for you, but it’s too damn cold right now.
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