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  1. Steering all sorted now. Was a bit of an RTFM moment as I'd not inserted the upper steering shaft in the correct orientation, causing the binding. All back together and torqued. On to the expansion tank next and then go for my PhD in plumbing
  2. Yes there is a u-joint - could be the culprit as things worked great till the steering clamp was tightened. Not sure and out of energy for the day. Will try to resolve this week.
  3. Steering rack rotated a bit solved the clearance issue. Now the rack seems to be binding. Seems such a simple job but I’m easily stumped. Will have another try later. @Pokey Haven’t done any plumbing yet. Have some good reference diagrams but if I get stuck I’ll let you know
  4. Good day today. Rear hubs torqued, dry sump tank in, along with the oh so pretty headers and exhaust. Ran into a bit of a snag with the steering rack as it’s just touching the alternator. Clears the pulley (barely). Not really much to adjust. Anyone else have this problem?
  5. Yes a good friend has them on his car (pictured to the left) and the sound is intoxicating. Keeping them happy at low idle seems to be a different challenge. Will probably do it down the road so long as it won't make the car harder to live with as I'd like to drive it often.
  6. Removed it during engine install and left it off to have more access. Will add it back along with the airbox once I make some progress on plumbing. Having the plenum removed does make me wonder if going straight to roller-barrel throttle bodies is a good idea but then I think about cutting my bonnet open and I decide I'll just enjoy it how it is for a while
  7. She’s looking more like a car…hoping to get plumbing mostly complete this weekend.
  8. Thanks - the 41mm socket(s) arrived today and indeed don't fit. Silly me to believe the manual. 42mm socket arrives Thurs. Good tip on torquing - thanks! All part of the adventure. @DemoDan I'm very close to Seattle. Send me a message and we can sort something out
  9. Anyone planning to be at the all British event in Kenmore on Sunday? http://wwabfm.com/
  10. Got the rear end more or less complete today. Missing the 41mm socket for the hub nuts. Uncle Jeff (Amazon) will bring me one on Tuesday. Then I’ll get the car on the floor and torque the front end before moving on to plumbing. Todays adventure was discovering the lovely lads at Caterham packed 3 M6x80 bolts for the ARB along with 1 M6x75 cap head. They look similar in the bag but of course the short one isn’t up to the task. Thank your chosen deity for Tacoma Screw and their vast selection. Made it before closing and they sent me on my way and at no charge. Funny how a small gesture
  11. It’s possible. The old manual says to get within +/- 2mm so if that means the tolerance is 4mm then I’m well within. If it means 2mm then I’m still ok. Think I’ll keep going and have Bruce have a look-see once I’m done.
  12. I used “the force” to try and get one more washer in but really what I need is two half washers. Feels snug for now. Hoping to get the rest of the rear end done tomorrow. Haven’t taken too many pics. If you’re bored tomorrow come on by. Maybe too hot and smoky for a blat.
  13. More progress on the rear end. De Dion tube is in along with rear dampers, radius arms (used the S holes as the R required drilling carbon panels), and the a-frame. Got within 2mm and calling it centered as there is no way to squeeze another washer in. Woke up in a cold sweat thinking the harness bolts would be too long to fit with the roll bar in place. Managed to get them in by backing out the roll bar a bit (of course I had to do this prior to damper install). Had a bit of a struggle with 1 of 4 bolts but par for the course. They’re in and torqued and not coming out for a long tim
  14. Sounds like we had the same experience. We effectively installed it 2/3rds of the way twice before figuring out a sequence that worked to get all three bolts in. Based on the internet it seems there isn’t one way that works reliably but I’m not planning to do it again either.
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