ChuckM

The shocks are gone!

Four original shocks from a 1989 Caterham, yours for the shipping cost. If interested send me your address and zip code and I’ll have UPS calculate the cost. Pay first ship afterwards. Thanks for shopping! PS - these are Spax shocks that have the adjustment screw (firm vs. soft ride).

MV8, Thanks for the clarification about the need to a second relay, I will pickup a second relay to finish my project. Thanks again!

I’m also attaching a picture of Derale wiring instructions (diagram #8) for comment. This diagram indicates only one relay. There are TWO 12V Switch Power or Thermostat connections, can both of these be connected to the heater fan switch?

MV8, I should be paying you a consulting fee! I am attaching a picture of my installation which has only one relay, I’m sensing from your diagrams that I might need two?.

MV8, Auto electric is not my forte’. So are you thinking I don’t need the relay and I can just plug into heater power source?

Steve, you must be a pro! Thanks very much the wiring diagram, my own installation does have a relay, a 30 amp fuse and a manual switch (I used the wiring and switch for the heater fan as an expedient). With everything wired I can turn the fan on low speed then high speed, but when I turn the ignition off the fan keeps running? It must be something simple so I’ll keep trying different things. Thanks again for your help!

Andy, Your name appears when you respond to my post? This is a 2 speed fan, but when I connect the red wire to power I do get both low and high speed cooling, but the fan continues to run after I turn the ignition off? Obviously auto electricity is not my strong suit!

Andy, A picture of the fan and radiator, this fan has 10 blades and generates 1450 CFM.

Andy, I do have an IR thermometer so I’ll try that tomorrow. The radiator is not leaking or hissing so it could be a faulty gauge. Brilliant!

Andy, The temperature gauge is in Celsius, there’s a 90, then a hash mark (not quite half way to 140) then 140 Celsius. It warms to 90 C then creeps up to the hash mark, that’s when I head home. There are several things that might contribute to the problem such as air in the cooling system, bad water pump or old Marston radiator. I’m open to suggestions and recommendations. I am not a professional mechanic! Thanks

I’m a first-time 7 owner, I bought my car in March 2022 and have been doing a fair amount of repairs to include tires, shocks, springs, clutch cable and a high output radiator fan (1460 CFI) to name a few. One thing I can’t figure out is why the car still runs hot especially went I push it? I think the previous owner removed the thermostat, so that’s not something I can experiment with, fan belt looks new, there’s a minor fluid leak which might be the water pump, but I’m not sure. I don’t think it’s a head gasket issue so I’m thinking water pump? Any sage advice would be appreciated, thanks.

John, Thanks for helping out, but I have ordered a complete set from Redline Components in the UK. Thanks again for helping out!

MV8, The folks on this forum are fantastic sources of information, thanks so much for your help tracking these bushings down! Regards

Thanks and will do!

I’m looking for a set of bushings for the rear of my solid rear axle Caterham, I don’t need a complete set unless the price is really attractive. I know I can get these from Caterham in the UK, but that’s a complete set of front and rear bushings and those are too expensive and the shipping costs are simply too much. Thanks for looking!

Thanks, another great idea!

I’ll take a few pictures tomorrow and send to you. Other than these “ripples” my car is a very nice car! Thanks for responding!

Graham, I am officially redirected, thanks for your input! Would a heat gun work or do I need a torch? Thanks

My 7 has ripples in the aluminum caused by a prior owner placing the jack in the wrong place😡. You can buy these on eBay for $650.00, but I can’t justify the expense for a one-off project. If someone has one of these for sale way cheaper than eBay please let me know.

MV8 That was what I thought, but wanted to be sure. The people on this forum are so helpful, thanks so much and thanks for the pictures!

I broke my clutch cable last week and ordered a replacement unit from Caterham (UK). In addition to the broken clutch cable the clutch fork disconnected from the release bearing. My 7 (1984) has the Ford Super Sprint engine and four speed transmission. The engine and transmission are still in the car and I’m hoping I don’t need to remove these to reconnect the fork to the bearing. I don’t have access to a lift so it’s difficult to clearly see into the access hole to connect the fork and the bearing. Notwithstanding I was able connect the two, but I’m not sure if I’ve done this correctly. If someone could tell me 1.) do I need to remove the engine and transmission, 2.) if someone can advise how to properly reunite the fork and bearing without removing the engine or transmission. Pictures would be appreciated if you have any. Thanks in advance for looking and commenting.

Hello, I was on the Burton site last night and I saw these two items. Thanks for the lead and thanks to all the other folks on USA7s for their help! Regards

Thanks, I’ll give Burton a look,

Brilliant! I’ll research on Monday. Thanks!