RedbeardRacing

Would you mind sending me a part number for the Honda calipers and rotor? Those Kodiaks look like really nice wheels.

You guys mind sharing what rear brakes you had that fit inside the 13" wheel? Front brakes too for that matter. I have outlaw 2000 front brakes and will only clear "real wheel" 12.2" ID, all the cheap steel wheels (Bassett, diamond, aero) ID is too small to clear the caliper. They are all about 11.25" ID On the rear I have a 2011 VW caliper from what I can find, and am looking at an LD-19 formula Ford caliper and matching rotor. About 450 per side. Any guidance is great.

The rabbit hole gets deeper. Thank you for the info.

I see the diff on the quaife website. Bw m68, so now I need axle seals and ring and pinion gear options that will fit it.

If you look at my previous post history I was looking at changing the gear set in my t9, it is geared very high. 2.39 first. And I was leaning more toward a 4.30 or 4.56 rear gear versus my current 3.90 to get some more bottom end pep. I'll go look at the quite site now, thanks again.

Thanks, you seem pretty confident on that one! My paperwork shows a quaife diff in there, so I'd imagine I can find another gear set for it. And that page had all the bearings and seals. I wonder why the previous owner thinks it's a Hilux rear?

One more picture.

I noticed a few drops of gear oil inside my rear left rim while I was unloading the car from about a 2 month winter nap. Looks like I'm doing axle seals, and figured while I'm in there I can change the gear set too. The car is 2003 birkin, any guesses on what Toyota live axle rear end assembly they were putting in them back then? Or just a quick measurement to see what it is from the sides? I have a couple photos from when I had the tray out too. Thanks all.

Thanks again for the help. I'll be reaching out to those vendors and making a plan! I was 15th out of 180 cars on raw time this past Sunday at autox, so I'm real excited to see what I can do whenever it's setup right. I had no power coming out of lower speed corners in second, and you don't have much time to be shifting up and down around an autox course.

So what would that be with the 3.90 rear. And do you have a good source for rear end gears. I'm assuming you have the same hi lux rear end, with a quaife diff.

That 2.98 first looks to be the ticket! @JohnCh what's your speed at the top of second with that combo? Do you have similar rear gear and tire size? @MV8 really appreciate the help.

I believe all this work was done when Gary slutz owned the car. And I've called and spoke with him, he doesn't remember much.

I attached what info was given to me by previous seller. It has a full belly pan so I can't spin the wheel and count drive shaft rotation. I'll see what I can do.

225/45/15 I believe.

Thanks a bunch I will check them out!

Good morning all. I have finally got most of the kinks worked out on my birkin s3 and have done a couple autox events. My current setup is a zetec with a t-9 that has a tall first and close ratios after that. I hit 59/60 at 8k rpm in first and close to 80 in second. For autox I'd like to be in the 48/50 range for first and 66/68 range in second. My current rear gear is a 3.90/1. I do occasionally street drive the car and in 5th @ 80 I'm turning 4k rpm so going with a higher ratio gear isn't ideal but that all depends on how hard it is to find gears and parts to change on the t-9. any info or suggestions are greatly appreciated. The previous owner sent the trans somewhere in New England to be built years ago, but he doesn't remember where. I am currently in Texas. Cheers John

And I don't! Been having one hell of a time figuring what parts are in there. Closest I can get is a UK escort release bearing.

I currently have an external slave, the bearing that came with the car failed, and I can't find the exact replacement. And the bearing from Birkin doesn't allow proper geometry with my current setup, and frankly I'm tired of all those moving pieces when I can have it all as one unit. Then I can do away with all that linkage.

Anybody done the annular bearing setup on a zetec bellhousing? Just trying to plan ahead.

Good afternoon everyone, I spoke with Tom at birkin USA and he has a kit to adapt the newer duratec annular release bearing to the t-9 attached to my zetec. It looks like it should clear the boss in the bell housing for my current external slave and linkage. Just wanted to see if anyone has done this upgrade and what they found out on the way!! TIA

I figured it out. Had some wires crossed up. Clear head and a night's sleep does a lot of good.

Looking through my instruction books for the car. I see wiring diagrams for everything but the alternator. @fastg helped me a ton already with wiring my new one up. However, I popped in the main disconnect and instantly heard a pop from the electrical compartment, like a relay didn't like it. So this is where I'm at. all kinds of craziness was hooked up to the old alternator charge wires. From what I can tell, old alternator had two wires... 1) One signal wire, straight to the battery, with a 7.5 amp fuse. (Deleted with new alternator wiring) 2) The ignition wire ran to the main hot switch on the console, from there to the amp gauge and then on to the battery. As of now I disconnected the ignition wire from the old alternator, it still makes it's run to the switch and gauge then back to the battery, but the alternator end is not hooked to anything. should I just hook up the end that was coming from the alternator to the battery? Does any of that make sense? Or do I just need to add the signal wire back? Any help is appreciated.

That's a nice price for that much fun. So via Graham, I've looked through the power master options. The ones on page 42 are smaller in body than what I currently have the 8122 model on page 44 is the exact dimensions of my current part. This one is 20 amp idle and 115 amp top end. It is quite pricey, around $360, but looks to solve all issues.

I bet it's peppy with k series in there, and even more cramped than mine. Found a broken top alternator bracket. That could have been side loading it, at bare minimum vibrating and sorts. Gonna throw a new one on it with a fixed bracket and see what happens. Does your amp meter show 0 when running? Shouldn't it be +12/14 if the alternator is working?

My issue is definitely space. I'm going to see what I can fit. Which Honda engine did you go with. Will a k series fit?