oilteq

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Assuming you are using a synthetic 75W-90, you may want to try a conventional GL4 SAE 90 or 80W-90. All three grades have to hit the same SAE 90 window at 100 degrees C, but the petroleum oils are slightly thicker at a typical 150-degree F operating temperature. I talked several people (mostly truck drivers) into such a change, and they tell me their transmission is quieter and has a smoother shift feel.

Swapped coil packs. No change.

I am still going to try to get a better balance, but Vovchandr is right, and 75 degrees is subtle. Are you saying I may not have a problem?

Wow. Impressive list. Thank you. New plugs, valve lash is in tolerance on all 16 valves, no measurable oil consumption. I try the easy stuff first, so compression test and swapping coil packs.

I have a 2.0 Duratec with Jenvey throttle bodies. Using an infrared thermometer on the header pipes, #3 is about 75 degrees higher than the others. I guessed there might be an air leak and sprayed starter fluid around the intake. No difference. Thinking that the starter fluid on one cylinder may not make a noticeable difference in idle speed, I installed a new intake gasket. Maybe it is fuel—I swapped #1 and #3 injectors. No difference. My next step is to try balancing the air flow with a flow meter like this. https://www.dellortoshop.com/contents/en-us/p290_Synchrometer_airflow_meter_for_Dellorto_DHLA_and_Weber_DCOE.html Am I on the right path, or am I overlooking something simple?

Shiny specs would indicate bearing wear. Particles from gear wear are usually dull gray. It won't put any metal back on, but assuming you are using a 75W-90, going to an 80W-90 mineral oil may quiet it down. Gearboxes typically run at around 150 degrees (maybe up to 190 under racing loads) and 80W 90 is a little thicker there.

I used 13" wheels on my 2001 Birkin Zetec from Realwheels.com. I think the backspace was 5". Not sure they were street legal, but since they were available with a bead-lock for sprint cars, I assumed they were strong enough. Wish I had kept them. I had to rebalance one of the wheels moving the wheel weight inward to clear the bleeder nipple. I think Toyo Proxies are still available in 225/45/13.

It is correct that there are two primary synthetic base oils. One is built up in a reactor and called PAO (polyalphaolefin) or API Group IV. The other is a severely refined mineral oil, API Group III. During the refining process, wax molecules are broken into branched chain paraffins and some of the less stable naphthenic molecules are broken into paraffin molecules. This molecular rearrangement is why the courts decided it could be called synthetic. ZDDP works sacrificially, which is why I want more and avoid extended drain intervals.

ZDDP is beneficial any time there is metal to metal contact. Modern passenger cars are required 600 to 800 PPM phosphorus. I want more to protect my cam, especially with a performance cam and its increased pressures. I also want more ZDDP for the timing chain, where some manufacturers have had issues with timing chain stretch. We could also debate oil viscosity. In 2013, when the only viscosity that would work in a Ford was SAE 5W-20 because of their tight tolerances, I called largest Ford dealer in England (Duningham Motors?) and asked what oil grade is recommended in the 2.0 Duratec. I was told SAE 5W-30. I asked about SAE 5W-20. After a long pause he said, "But sir, 5W-20 is not available."

Good advice. A small nest of filings is normal. If Shiney bits are in with the gray nest, it is probably from bearings and cause for concern.

I have a friend that is planning to drive his 2001 Focus to the junk yard. The unibody is rusting out (salt during Iowa winters), but the 2.0 Zetec is fine at about 150,000 miles. He says he is willing to sell the engine at well below typical prices. I am sure the ECU is also available. There is nothing in this for me. If you are interested, let me know and I will put you in contact with him.

In 1981 I put "gasohol" (E10) in my 1979 Suzuki 750. It was not long until I had to grind on the clutch for half a block to get it going. I switched back to straight gasoline, and it ran fine within one tankful. The shop said it dried out the O-rings in the carburetors. Gasoline mixed with alcohol becomes more aggressive than either by themselves. As MV8 mentioned, alcohol enleans the air to fuel ratio, but you can compensate by enriching the mixture. With no ECU to change the AFR when burning different fuels, it is often recommended to tune for whatever you choose and stay with it. In my opinion, there is no lead substitute. In 1988, as the wide nozzle system was practically gone, the EPA and USDA reported the results of a joint study Report to the President and Congress on the Need for Leaded Gasoline on the Farm. The pages were not numbered, but I would guess it is about 200 pages long. The intent was to prove that lead substitutes could replace lead. They proved the opposite. They tested products from Du Pont, Polar Molecular, and Lubrizol, which dominated the market and sold to blenders for a hundred different brands of lead substitutes. Lubrizol’s additive was the only one to have a partial success, when used at four times the recommended rate in a 454 with induction hardened seats, but still more valve recession than 0.1 grams of tetraethyl lead per gallon. Gasoline stabilizers are good, but I would stay away from those that claim to stop phase separation. If 10% alcohol does not keep the water suspended, adding a pint of additive in 10 gallons makes little difference. Look at the SDSs and you will find they are mostly alcohol anyway. I would not worry too much about aromatic solvents in pump gasoline because the limit to Reid vapor pressure is regulated. Octane boosters on the other hand, are mostly aromatic solvents and do not raise octane much anyway. I have never experienced it, but excessive vapor pressure in a carbureted engine can cause vapor lock. If avgas or racing fuel is available, I think those are your best choices.

The large headlights that came on my Birkin made it hard to remove the nose if I need to access the radiator or the front of the engine. I rotated them somewhat outward, but after doing so a couple time, one side became loose. So, I opted for smaller lights which gave me plenty of clearance and fixed the problem. They measure 4" in diameter including the housing and 3.5" across the lens. They have low beams and lower beams. I sometimes use the lower beams as driving lights, but they are worthless for lighting up the road. I keep them on high beams on the rare occasions I drive at night and they do a fair job. Stalker, let us know if yours throw out enough lumens.

I found this cut apart filter picture that you may find amusing. It is from a pulling tractor where the filter has no bypass and the owner nailed his block bypass shut.