nc7s4

Good morning, here is a quick update from the track: Sunday I was able to put the car on pole position and win in my run group and set a Waterford Hills track record for Super Production (SPU) @ 1:13:226. Then I packed up and drove the car home. All of this got the attention of other super 7 owners who are talking about joining in the spring. FTD video: https://youtu.be/7OMT3iydmsA?si=a_AMSi-nvGTgdDkA ... after looking at this video, i think there's a 1:11 in it. Track records: http://www.waterfordhills.com/track-records.html

Here is a picture of my adjustable top front fender bracket. There is an aluminum CNC piece that bolts to the fender, and can slide inboard and outboard on this steel bracket. These work for the original aluminum fender but are over built for the c.f. version. For the carbon fiber fenders, we are playing with the idea of round tubes sliding and being pinned. Male 5/8 OD aluminum to 5/8 id carbon fiber. Still working on the bracket design Wondering if this is reusable for anyone else struggling with front wheel fitment or people who just don't like the front fender brackets

Do you have an r160? How did it break? I broke the pinion gear on mine so replaced with an r180

Getting my front fenders mounted and sorting out the front wheel fitment has been a whole thing. I wanted fender brackets that worked for both my 17 inch road wheels, and 15 inch race wheels Long & expensive story short: The best 15 inch race wheels/tires combo I found for the front are Bassett 15x10 with 6 inch backspacing with a stretched a hoosier A7 225 So the brackets (being made now) are going to be similar to how Ariel Atom does it, and the Caterham CSR. It's a tube bracket which the fender can slide in and out of to get it centered over whatever wheel I am running. Note: I also tried Bassett 15x8 inch wheels with 5 inch backspacing (max they can do). These won't clear the caliper, and need a 1 inch spacer. That messes up the scrub radius severely. 15x10 with 6 inch BS will fit and scrub radius is acceptable. You just need to do a little stretch on the tire which I confirmed with Hoosier is acceptable for their 225 A7. Rear tires are also the same wheels with 275 hoosier A7. I staggered mine because of the weight balance being rear heavy (43/57%)

Yes I'll check it all out. I think the fronts are a better upgrade because it is all unsprung weight. Might as well do the rears too though. Always nice to have a matching set! Plus my car is so rear heavy that taking any weight out of the rear is welcomed

Should be trivial to lay up inside of one of these metal ones. It would be slightly smaller than the original but should not matter. I'll check on this with the guy I found who is doing my fronts. This will probably end up being CF.

I have two rears here Also notice this sticker on the inside of one if it helps Let me know what you want to do with these. I'm happy to help you

Hello WCM owners, I am planning to get some fiberglass front fenders made up. Checking to see if anyone else wants a set. Happy to have more added on to my order and shipped out to you at my cost. Furthermore, I am making some new front fender brackets that will be adjustable for different wheel offsets. Tubular style similar to how Atoms are set up.

the parts arrived to fix the oversteer condition. 245 -> 275mm rears. Wheel offfset has been adjusted to keep the outside of the tire even with the outside of the fender

Hi @Crocthanks for taking the time to review this. Tires seemed fine, tires were just warming up and the car felt basically great as I was passing the field. I noted tire temps of ~160f rear and ~140f front in an earlier session. Inside temp was 15 degrees warmer than outside on all corners with 1.5 deg camber. Ambient 60f. I don't know much about the Hoosier a7, taking somewhat of a shot in the dark by selecting that product. Also, reconsidered my wheel size choice and may end up with all 4 9.5 inchers. Those will fit 245 and 275mm tires, and will give me the option to go back to a square setup (all 245) End result of this day was good, despite the gravelly mess which I still have to clean out. I received my novice racing license and a log book for the car.

Thanks Dave that's a good tip. Honestly the more I process what happened and watch that video I'm leaning towards driver error. The motor has a lot of juice and there is more in the car than I've been able to get out so far. Gear changes on the front straight are still something I'm working on. I can let it sit at 9000 for a while before turn 1 or upshift after the last turn onto the straight then downshift into turn 1. That's a lot of footwork but may be faster when done right