Dave W

Another option would be to add an extension to the top of the knuckle. Your upper control arm is pointing downward, as it travels into jounce it moves the top BJ outboard Vs inboard, which cause positive camber, NOT negative camber. Typically the upper arm points up at an angle between 10 to 25° for the correct camber gain. Plus we are not even going to talk about roll center???

I would check your build manual, for the exhaust system. I do not think you want the O2 sensor facing down, because it can collect water.

I have an old repair manual with the Lotus Twin cam. Looking at the engine exploded view, I can confirm that the oil stricter is not stock.

As long as you are not looking for the electrically heated windshield, your average auto glass shop will be able to cut a replacement. Take the surround or the glass in as a template. Usually only takes a couple days. Depending on the New Mexico motor vehicle requirements, you may need "$+" to also get safety glass marking, etched into the windshield. If you have a state inspection ?, and no glass marking, keep the bill of sales indicating that it is safety glass.

Check out the Dunlop Direzza ZIII in the 185-60-14 size. They have a 200 tread wear rating and are available at your local Discount Tire/Tire Rack. I'm very pleased with the handling, but have not used them in rainy weather.

Whoa, one hell of a good motor! You get a really good drive off the last corner on to the front straight and drive all the way to right hander in same gear!!! When getting new tires for the Seven, I get the old tires dis-mounted, take the wheels home and scotch brite the mounting surface, then return them to the tire shop.

Try contacting Jones Cam Design in Denver NC. Mike Jones @ 704-489-2449

The dashboard is a carryover from coaches, most of the body builders for early cars evolved from horse drawn wooden wagons and coaches.

If the push rod is actually aligned with the pedal ???, a local hardware store would probably have a clevis. That should be a quick and easy fix. Is there enough space on the pedal pivot shaft, that you can add spacers to correct the alignment or improve the alignment?

I believe the real problem is side loading. After repairing the hole, I would replace the connection joint with a Heim joint that is solidly bolted to the pedal.

Don't you love the off camber corner in cold weather with cold tires! Will scare the "S" out of you. Once you lose traction that's it.

If you were pumping oil out, then the pump is probably OK. As MV8 was saying, look at the hoses, and the fittings. If you still cannot find the failure point, remove the oil pressure gauge connection. Attach a barded fitting to the block and apply a short blast of air pressure, to expose the leaking fitting or area. I would not apply constant air pressure.

The diesel oils have the ZDDP for the anti-wear but lack the anti-foam additives needed for the high RPM gasoline engines. I use 3qts of Mobile 1, 5w-30 and 1qt of VR-1 20w-50. I change oil once a season or if I reach 3000 miles along with a new Wix filter.

Check out Champion plugs, [I think their HQ's are in Toledo] they would hand out free copper plug spacers at the tracks. Several sizes and thickness.

Per Chris Rees Magnificent 7, the super 7 1500, had a bell housing that was black and the engine was maroon.