Jump to content

Dave W

Registered User
  • Posts

  • Joined

1 Follower

Personal Information

  • Location
    South Lyon Michigan
  • Interests
  • Occupation
    Quality Engineer

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. After you have completed all the wiring, you need to check the complete system. Start by installing each fuse one at a time. If you don’t have a master cutoff switch, then leave the battery clamp loose so it can be quickly pulled if there is a direct short. Once you have verified that the individual circuit is OK, then move on to the next fuse. Once very fuse is installed and all the circuits are checked, including the engine instruments, then go back and rap the harness with wiring split tube or plastic spiral rap and attach the harness to the frame with “P” clips. If your budget allows, you might want to look at wrap around braided sleeving from, cabletiesandmore.com supplier if you want an upscale look. I would not use tape to wrap the complete wiring harness, because it will be PITA to trace or change any of the wires if you do have a problem, or later want to add a new circuit. In fact, you should consider adding extra wires to both the rear and front wire bundles. lt made life much easier when later I added an air horn. Add the extra wire color codes to your notes or schematic for later reference.
  2. Just tape around the lower shock adjusting threaded section to prevent nicks and picking up road dirt. Use your anti-seize on the countersunk screws on the disc.
  3. I had a similar problem, with my engine. I was able to cut a little over 4mm off the neck and machine another 3mm off the top of the cap. A simple check should tell you how much material can be removed from both surfaces.
  4. It has to be an A/F at idle or you would have noticed a drop in power thru out the whole power band Vs just the temp. If there is a power drop, then a cylinder leak down or compression check is needed. A very lean mixture condition at idle will have NO carbon band at the very end of the tip of the center spark plug electrode. Could be a bad valve, but again you would have a noticeable power drop.
  5. Shouldn't the throttle cable route straight under that "Z" shape plate, Vs at an angle? Also you might want to safety wire the end of the throttle cable to prevent the ball end from slipping out.
  6. Engine Masters, recently rated oil filters, and rated K&N in 1st place, followed by Wix. Both filters showed less pressure drop an more flow. With the K&N filtering 10 microns, Vs the typical 20 microns.
  7. A V8 oil filter will pass about 9 GPM, and a NASCAR engine will pump between 4 to 6 GPM, so you probably need about 60% for your 4 cylinder engine, to be on the safe side.
  8. Depending on how much time you have, you might want to consider building a Seven Vs swaping in a VW engine into a Brikin. I believe Dave Watkins still has one Rush chassis for sale in Ann Arbor. David Watkins britkitcars@att.net http:/britkitscars.com Ann Arbor 734-222-9702 The only down side is that it would probably take a year to build Vs a month for a engine swap, to be on the road. You are probably better off $$$$, to just buying a Seven that already has 150 HP.
  9. I do not have a flat tappet cam, but have always added 1 qt of Rotella with ZDDP, to my oil change cocktail. A little ZDDP goes a long way in protection, but even the newer diesel oils have been reduced.
  10. Did RM recommend that you change to a different plug [a colder plug] once you get to the track? How about base timing, did that change at all?
  11. 680 miles from South Lyon MI. to Rochester MN. about 13.5 hrs of seat time. Failures; blow off a heater hose and ventated an engine block, both close to home.
  12. If you decide to modify the pedal box, you might want to consider adding a pedal stop to the clutch lever. You will already will have half work for a 2nd clevis pin that can slide thru a hole, or into a tube or block. Much easier now the later, after you are on the road.
  13. Reverse polarity, check all your connectors to the gauge.
  14. There are other options, if you need to meet Ontario requirements, i.e. your typical split plastic or braided cable covers. The only problem is you have to order them by wire bundle diameter. Then you end up trying to fit 10 lbs into a 5 lbs bag trick half the time. Which ever way you go, I would advise that you only use tape on the short small bundle wire runs. Dave W
  • Create New...