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Dave W

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About Dave W

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    Senior Member

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  • Location
    South Lyon Michigan
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  • Occupation
    Quality Engineer

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  1. That small blemish in the real world probably would not cause any issues. It's the bluing marks on the lobes which indicate a high heat condition. What is causing the high friction? Cam profile, oil or possible oil passage blocked, lifter bucket, possible break-in procedure, machining error ? That's the million $$$$ question. First, try by eliminating what it is not, starting with the easiest possibility first. Dave w
  2. If you look at the wear pattern on the lobes, they are not consistent from one lobe to another. Typically they appear to be simular for any given cam profile. Could actually be the cam grinder did not do a second spark out on the profile? Dave w
  3. Check you valve lifter buckets. Do they rotate freely? Dave w
  4. I would check for debris in the threads. If that is not the issue, then I would try Permatex thread sealant # 80632. This is the type of sealant used on engine bolts that go into the water jack or crank case. Does not harden, so there is not a removal problem. Dave W
  5. If you have a steel oil sump, you may want to extend the skid plate under the oil pan. There is a good chance that the object you contact will not slide across the pan, but actual crush in the bottom of the oil pan. See photo of extended plate added for sump protection, which cover the bottom of the oil pan.
  6. I would visit locostusa and find a member close to your location. He/She should already have the tooling to form the aluminum channel. They should also be able to direct you to a local glass shop that can cut the safety glass from your template. I'm on my 2nd windshield an both pc's were less the $100. If you want a 1st class windshield frame they can connect you with a supplier that has aluminum extruded channel with the outboard corners radiused. Must builders set the glass in rubber Vs glue, and use screw Vs rivets for the assembly. Dave W
  7. There is also Grattan and Waterford tracks close by. Dave W
  8. The caliper alignment and or mounting bracket is not perpendicular to the disc. If it is not a lot, you just need to bed in the pads. But I would first check the mounting bracket bolts. You could try re- torque the bolts, while some one applies brakes. Torque up in sequence. If that does not solve the issue you will probably have to shim. Davew
  9. You could try adjusting the push rod at the master cylinder. That might give you enough extra stroke to reduce the clutch drag. As long as you have 1mm of free travel before the push rod contacts the piston you should be OK. Dave W
  10. Dave W

    oil cooler

    I think with the colder weather, you will find that it takes FOREVER to get every thing up to temp with the oil cooler. If you drive much in the colder weather, consider the Mocal temperature by-pass. Before I install the by pass, I made a block off plate, with a hinged section. It allowed me to open a 1/3 of the cooler area, by flipping up the section with a long screw driver thru the front of the grill. Dave W
  11. My current 14" Federals have a tread wear rating of 260, A,A. Dave W
  12. I'm using 595's on my Locost, and very pleased with them. The selection of 14" summer tires was pretty limited. The plus for me was that I can get them locally if there is ever a problem, since I do not carry a spare tire. I did have a set of Yokohama's A048, and the federals are much better. I'm running Federal 14" 185-55 @ 19psi. I would also check out Ar1 or NS2R, Nankang if you have a local distributor. They are only slightly higher then the Federals. Dave W
  13. Sorry But I'm having a problem with the .2 volts? Valves typically stick open not closed. When cranking the engine over can you feel if either cable is getting hot. Is there a solid engagement sound from the starter solenoid. Dave W
  14. Time to get the VOM out and check the resistance on both the hot lead and grounding cables to the starter. You do have a grounding cable connected right to the engine? Dave W
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