savagete2860

Thanks @KnifeySpoony. I don't mind working on the car but I stopped short of removing the barrels themselves. Are there any tune implications to removing the barrel completely? My only concern is I don't have a way to check/set tps voltage and Id be worried I might change something there. I don't believe it is the throttle cable itself - adding and picking up slack didnt change the behavior and its routed in a way that wouldnt interfere or be interfered with by anything else that I can tell. I took another look and I don't really know how I missed it, but there is evidence of the return spring on the right barrel making contact with the adjustment bolt on that side. Is that bolt the full throttle stop adjustment? I think that is my smoking gun for the binding. Edit: adjusted this and that seems to solve the issue when manually testing. However now WOT isn’t actually fully opened, it overshoots just slightly. Not a big deal while I’m breaking the car in though. Edit on the edit: Still an issue with the WOT screw backed out a good bit to not touch the spring IMG_3060.mov

Hi everyone, long time lurker new 7 owner here. I will make an intro post soon, but I figured this was as good as time as any to dip my toes into the usa7s community pool. I ordered a 420R kit with roller barrel throttle bodies through Rocky Mountain Caterham and had them assemble the car. I took delivery of it earlier this month and it has been great up until a few days ago. For some reason, the throttle started "sticking". For example, if I am in gear with the throttle opened ~10% to maintain cruising speed, let off the gas, it will be like I am still pressing the accelerator and I will not slow down. If I put the car in neutral or press in the clutch, the RPMs will rise to 3-6k rpm rather than settle into idle. Giving it a quick jab or two of throttle seems to correct things (or make them worse until jabbed again) but it will just happen again to the point where its probably not that safe to drive. It's also seems like the barrels don’t want to go back to their idle position. Also - maybe related, maybe not, the car does not always start which is also a new behavior. I have had about 5 cold starts just crank with no signs of life until hitting the battery cut off switch off and back on at which point it just starts. I looked at the throttle pedal and it and the cable appear normal to me. The pedal seems to always return to it's starting position and when the throttle sticks there is no play in the pedal to move it. This leads me to believe the issue is at the RBTB end of the throttle cable. I pulled the filter and back plate off and notice i can use my hand to close the barrels further than they normally would be. If the throttle is actuated again, the barrels never return to what I imagine should be their resting idle position. Below is a video of what I am talking about. So my assumption, which very well could be incorrect, is that because there s a kind of dead space between the lowest opening and where the cable start to get tight to open the throttle and it seems like the barrels can get randomly stuck at any position in that dead space. Any ideas of what to look at or do next? rbtbs-issue-720.mov