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savagete2860

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  1. Those rubber guys are captive on the straps and cant be removed. There are 3 per strap. The also have little nubs that are supposed to go in a center groove on a tire to hold the car in place even more. However, on the r888rs, the center groove is offset so you cant really use it. When these straps need replaced I will likely grab some regular straps. I plan on doing something like this eventually. I am planning on getting a second set of wheels for the caterham along with one or two trailer tire spares. This seems like the best solution for secruing them as well as maybe a few other things. You're including the 240lbs that is coming from the front axle with the trailer loaded. it would be (3020-2240) - (2800-2560) = 540 Thank you and good catch, I will move the roller closer next time and pay attention to that. I assumed it was close when i did this yesterday but you're right, looking at the photos at least the one could move at least on slot closer to the tire. If they are touching or could touch the tire in any capacity, is that too close?
  2. Thanks everyone for you commets and advice so far. Made some more progress today. New tongue weight scale came in, and it wasn’t accurate at all either. These things are junk. It would weigh the tongue weight at ~200-300 lbs which just didn’t seem right. I decided to just strap the car down and drive to a CAT scale and get real weights. truck steer axle: 2800lbs rear axle: 2240lbs trailer axle: 0lbs truck + trailer steer axle: 2560lbs rear axle: 3020lbs trailer axle: 3100lbs So the loaded trailer was 3650, and tongue weight with where I happened to place the car, was 540lbs, pretty much sport on 15%. That also gives me about 100+ pounds more payload than I thought I would have which is great. I can probably move the car back a foot and gain even more payload if I ever needed it. Strapping the car down was... interesting. I am new to ratchet straps, etrack, etc. I put it all together and wasn’t 100% confident on how tight the straps need to be or where to place them. I just cranked away until it was not that easy to do more. I checked after a few miles and the straps didn’t move or loosen, so must have been okay? Here are a bunch of photos of the car strapped. Does it seem okay or should I change anything? Should I leave the car in gear with the ebrake on? I do have drings I can certain use in addition to the over the tire straps if that would be a good idea as well. The truck with the trailer loaded with the car drove fine, albeit I was not on a high way and only was going between 30-55mph. You can certainly tell the trailer has more weight with the car loaded though. Its much more sluggish in every area.
  3. The weather has been cold and wet the last few weeks which has been holding up trying out my new trailer. My Caterham's radiator also decided to spring a leak, as they apparently like to do. Because of that, I have not been able to load up my car on the random decent days. I managed to sort the radiator and figured I'd load up the trailer and see where I could get the tongue weight using a scale I bought. This is important not only to see if I can even get under 15% window for tongue weight but also to see where my payload capacity lands with a loaded trailer. After passengers and fuel, I only have ~970 lbs left for available payload with no trailer, tools, hitch, etc, so I am going to be cutting it close. I put the car on the trailer, near the rear, and lowered it onto the scale. Bam - 250 lbs! I was starting to think the scale they used at the trailer shop was wrong since it ranged from like 700 down to low/mid 600s depending on car position. I was pretty happy because I am aiming for 365-550lbs and with how far back the car was, that should be simple to hit. I pushed the car to the front of the trailer and lowered onto the scale again, not is at 200 lbs. Huh.. turns out MY scale, not the shop's scale, was a dud and wouldn't measure over 200 lbs. I am now waiting on a replacement scale to try this all again and I still don't know exactly how I will load the trailer up or what my available payload will be. Figured I would post some pictures of my almost complete tow setup. Here is the full setup after I bought the trailer. No car loaded. These are all from today... Also discover the bell housing/skid plate gets hung up on the ramp door with me in the car. It just clears when the car is completely unloaded though.
  4. So I bought a steel frame enclosed trailer, a car mate 7x14 avalanche. https://www.smouse.com/unit/2026-car-mate-7x14-hd-avalanche-v-nose-cargo-w-ramp-door-12-add-l-hgt-772540 It is taller and heaver than I probably would have liked, but they let me put my se7en on it, and its seems to have just enough room to not feel squeezed width wise, and more than enough length. The trailer weighs ~2400 lbs, my 7 weighs ~1250 lbs so it should be around 3650lbs. I would target 365-547 lbs to be in that 10-15% tongue weight. However, I had the trailer place measure the tongue weight, and with my car almost all the way back, it was closer to 630lbs. This was weighed at the trailer jack vs the hitch so I suppose the true tongue weight will be slightly less, but still probably over 15%. Is this a big issue? Even at 630 lbs, I have ~350 lbs of payload left over, but its getting pretty darn close. As for securing the car, I am going to have them put in E Tracks. Would the erickson tie downs work if the rear ratchets need to be in front of the to rear tire rather than behind? I imagine it wouldn't make a difference? https://www.etrailer.com/Car-Tie-Down-Straps/Erickson/EM58523-09162-4.html#exp-productdetails=.all-description Video of the straps: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v4cK1aOsdbQ Hitch wise, I guess I am skipping the WDH hitch for now. The guy helping me seemed like the tongue weight was no big issue and and standard hitch would be fine. I was going to have the trailer place put one on when I go pick up the trailer - just a standard 2 5/8" inch ball hitch with whatever drop/rise it needs. I will be going to pick it up as soon as I get insurance setup and my storage spot secured (found a super close place that is $50/mo). I will post some pictures when I pick it up.
  5. I didn't realize WDH's were a no-no on aluminum trailers, that is good to know. Low spec steel enclosed 7x14 trailers seem to range from 2k-2.5k lbs, so with the seven Id still be under 4k and have the option of a WDH, so I think that might be my preference. Having never towed, WDH and sway control sound like they would be really nice to have to avoid white knuckling every trip. Good to hear you haven't really felt the need for it with you setup though, this might be something I hold off on. Hitch wise, I am open to any and all recommendations. I am guessing something that allows the ball hitch to be higher or lower is ideal to try an level out weight - if I don't go the WDH route, I will probably get something like the regular weight safe hitch so I can adjust the ball height and see the tongue weight. I heard the gauges crap out after awhile, but as soon as I figure out where and how I will load the trailer, I don't think I would even need to look at it anymore. Thank you for your $0.02. At this point I think I would only consider a WDH if I got with an enclosed trailer. According the the dash I am at ~17 MPG in the Frontier, granted none of that is highway. Thanks - and yeah going with the Frontier gives me significantly more options than the Maverick towing wise. You are echoing others, hold off on the WDH. Trailer wise, assuming enclosed, how should I plan to secure the seven? Should I consider something like this? https://www.etrailer.com/Car-Tie-Down-Straps/Erickson/EM58523-09162.html?
  6. I am one step closer to posting in the tow rig thread. I picked up a Nissan Frontier. I will still need to pick up a trailer brake controller and install Nissan's tow mode button, but its ready to go for towing. Unlike the Maverick, it allows me to rent a uhaul trailer or buy my own. It weighs 4720 lbs with a full tank of fuel, and has a payload of 1292lbs. Other than the awful fuel economy, so far its a great truck. Next up is a trailer. I am still undecided on open vs enclosed, although still leaning enclosed. It seems like it would be wise to get some type of weight distribution/sway control hitch. From what I have been reading, if you're towing anything that is 50% or more the weight of the truck its a good idea. With an enclosed trailer, I am sure I will be at or north of 3000lbs. Is this something I should worry about? Anyone able to school me on these? Something like one of these: https://andersenhitches.com/products/weight-distribution-hitch?variant=42320407068715 https://www.equalizerhitch.com/products/e2-hitch/ Any other hitch recommendations? I am going to some trailer places in the coming weeks to hopefully have something by next month which is when my first HPDE is.
  7. I agree and I think you are spot on. Bumping up to a mid-sized truck gives plenty of head room for towing. I think before I was really trying to fit a smaller truck into my use case but really that's probably not the best decision. Funny you mention the Frontier, that is the truck I was planning on test driving soon. I have read/watched mostly good things.
  8. I haven't decided anything yet and probably won't buy anything until closer to spring. It still largely depends on the tow vehicle for me, which is what I need to figure out first. After this winter storm, I am hoping to checkout some mid-sized trucks to see if they fit in my garage or not. With something like the Maverick, I will likely end up playing it safe and going with an aluminum open trailer. If I bump up to something where trailer weight would be less of a concern, no question, I would go with a run of the mill aluminum 7x14 enclosed. Either option would be tandem axle with brakes. I am also leaning towards renting a Uhaul trailer at first (this might be too heavy for a Maverick though, not sure). Then I can spend some time checking out local trailer places and seeing what trailers fit the Caterham and can still hit appropriate tongue weights on my specific vehicle - assuming they let me figure that stuff out. However, if I smack the lotto, I am going to order one of these fancy custom trailers that have been posted.
  9. I appreciate everyone indulging me. I am 100% over thinking all of this, to the point of analysis-paralysis probably. At the end of the day, I just want the smallest enclosed trailer that can fit my Caterham, its weather gear, aeroscreen, and a spare set of wheels. This thread has helped me understand that a 7x12 or 7x14 would probably work for my use, and looking around that should put me at a weight that is close to 3000lbs, give or take a bit going the aluminum route. @Vovchandr has been saying 5k lbs tow limit or more for a vehicle, and that seems to add up with what others have been saying, so I think I need to look at a midsize truck vs a "trucklette" like the Maverick, unless I 180 and go for an open trailer. I will continue to ponder... still open to more suggestions, comments or advice.
  10. Good stuff @Timothy Keith-Lucas appreciate the photos. Guessing you pull the cars all the way to the front? I like the winch idea too. @bball7754 your trailer is awesome. I might have to at least try and get an estimate for something similar from them to compare to a standard enclosed trailer. @Davemk1 I 100% agree with everything you said and appreciate your anecdote. Tongue weight in the safe rage is a must for me - especially being new to towing. Your situation with needing to add things in front to hit 12% tongue weight make me a little worried about a v nose enclosed trailer where the car will probably be further rearward compared to an open trailer. @Vovchandr In your trailer photos your car looks pretty forward as well - have you ever measured your tongue weight? Are you able to hit 10%+ tongue weigh just by pushing the car forward?
  11. What is not comfortable for long distances? Sway? Acceleration/braking? I think your setup is closest to what I will likely end up with, so if you're saying it kind of sketchy feeling for longer hauls I need to take that into consideration. Does your trailer have brakes? Any idea on weight? I'd love a picture when you are able to its not too much to ask. Like you said, a seven is almost 11ft, which only gives a hair over 1ft to move the car to adjust tongue weight. The reason I was asking about the V nose is that it will push the car back further than a non-vnose trailer, i think. I don't know if that is good or bad relating to tongue weight. A 14' obviously gives your more room to move backwards if needed, but would have the same problem moving forward V nose vs flat.
  12. Again, I appreciate everyone comments. I have some good advice here. Tire ratings are on my list now of things to check. It might not make financial sense in the near or medium term, but time spent dealing with uhaul every track event and hauling around a questionable trailer doesn't seem worth it to me. I get people do this all the time, but it just seems like it would be a lot less stressful if it was my own trailer. I think that peace of mind is probably worth the financial trade off. Also, the biggest piece is I still like the idea of enclosed over open. I am confident a 7x14 enclosed would fit a 7 no issues. @Timothy Keith-Lucas you mentioned you are towing a 7x12 enclosed, how much left over room is there with your 7 loaded up? Is it a V nose? If you had to get a new trailer, would you buy that same size again if it was specific to your 7? How are you securing in your 7? Pictures here or in the thread @Vovchandr started (thank you, btw) would be super useful for me just to see as well if you had any. 7x12 sounds ideal but I want to make sure I am not going to be handicapping myself. I have been looking around on a few sites at trailers. Looking at https://www.stealthtrailers.com/enclosed-7-wide-cargo-trailers, it looks like bare bones aluminum v nose tandem axle 7x14s trailers can come in around 14-1500 lbs. Same setup in 7x12 are 1-200lbs less. I haven't weighed my car, but allegedly it is 1235lbs without doors or roof and 5 gallons of fuel. So I am assuming 1300lbs for car weight that puts me at anywhere from 2600-2800lbs. Throw on trailer brakes (no idea on weight of this stuff) and the actual straps (again, no real idea on weight here), etc, would a safe estimate be 3000lbs enclosed? I think so but I want to make sure there is nothing I am totally missing here. Is anyone here paying attention to tongue weight? Being new to towing, reading about sway I want to make sure whatever I get I can put in that 10-15% range. I am wondering if I can even get to 10% tongue weight if I go with a smaller enclosed trailer with a v nose with just the car loaded up. Anyways, assuming my assumptions are right, or at least in the ball park, towing load should be about 2800-3200lbs with a tongue weight of 280-320lbs (10%) to 420-480lbs (15%). Does that seems reasonable for any vehicle with a tow rating of 4k, electronic brakes, and also assuming payload can handle the tongue weight, passengers, tools, and a spare set of wheel/tires?
  13. Thank you for the replies everyone, super useful stuff. I am still searching around for both trailer and truck. That was a good call out for checking the door width on 6x12s, a lot (all of the ones I was looking at) wouldn't fit my car. I am sold on tandem axles, it just seems worth the added safety and stability. Also I didn't call it out but I was planning on brakes on whatever trailer I get as well. I really REALLY wish those clam shell trailers that are all over the place in the UK were sold over here. I would snag one of those up in a second. I am guessing there isn't really anything comparable in the states, right? I haven't found anything but maybe I haven't looked everywhere. Maybe its worth reaching out to some custom trailer places and seeing if they could build something similar within a reasonable budget. I did some rough measuring, and a mid size truck can fit in my garage along with my 7, only just (door opening might be a problem and not enough height to jack it up for maintenance). I need to try and test it out in real life to see how much of a pain that would be along with the miserable gas mileage. With only doing a few events a year, it might make more sense to get the smaller, more economical vehicle, and deal with the downsides of an open trailer. I'm still pondering it all... I would love to see some more tow setups.
  14. Thanks for the replies. Most of the higher tow capacity SUVs are just as wide as a mid size truck, so really don't think I'd go for those since I would like something with a bed as well for other purposes. Also a P car for a tow vehicle is out of the budget lol. I am still leaning pretty hard towards a maverick, I just need to make sure the trailer options would work with it weight wise. Also just to clarify, the Caterham will still be stored my garage, the trailer will be stored somewhere else. Thats one of the reasonsd I want to stay on the smaller side for the tow vehicle. Sounds like an enclosed 6x12 does fit a Caterham, its just a but of a squeeze. I would be fine with that, I think. I just want to make sure were talking enclosed and not an open trailer. Is that tight on the width side or the length side, or both? Anyone have photos of a seven in an enclosed 6x12 trailer and how its tied down? Lets say I end up with an enclosed trailer, what do I need to look for inside of the trailer? I am not looking for anything fancy other than loading in the car and making it secure. Should tie downs be in a specific, maybe non-standard place? How sketchy is a single axle, really? It looks like the 2nd axle usually adds about 600lbs. Is that worth it for safety? I never really towed anything so maybe I am ignorant but how often are tires really blowing out to cause issues? V nose is a good idea I assume?
  15. I posted this on reddit's r/cartrackdays, but it was suggested to me to ask here as well which seems like a no brainer. My local track, PittRace, is closing and there are no tracks in comfortable driving rage. So I am looking at towing options now. To start, my home is NOT conducive to larger vehicles. I am on a very narrow one lane street and my house has about a 20ft long drive way that is just barely two cars wide and is pretty darn steep (backing a trailer onto my property is likely impossible or at the very least close to it). It leads into a "2" car garage, which really feels more like an over sized 1.5 car garage. My Caterham is currently parked in here along with my 2021 Subaru Crosstrek (tow rating = 1500#s). I generally work from home and share this vehicle with my wife as our daily driver. The tow vehicle will replace this. Given my space constraints and the primary use case, I am looking for something relatively small. The smaller the better with modern niceties of apple car play and heated front seats are top of list. I am looking at a truck at this point vs an SUV/Crossover/etc. Trailer wise, I don't know where yet, but it will need to stay off property. I simply have no where to keep one. My first thought was an aluminum single axle tilt trailer. That would let me get something like a Ford Maverick with the 4k tow package (this was my front runner for a vehicle) and my total payload would only be ~2k lbs. The more I read and look, the more I think I want dual axle for safety and enclosed would be nice on the trips that are further out where the weather might be questionable in route or overnight parking in sketchy parking lots. So what is the smallest size enclosed trailer that can fit an s3 Caterham? I have seen a few 7x14s, but I am wondering if a 6x12 would work? I think even with a 7x14 trailer, I could squeeze in under the Mavericks 4k tow limit, but being enclosed I am not sure how terrifying that would be to drive with the additional surface area on windy days/passing semis blowing me around. If I must, I think I can squeeze into a mid-size truck, but it will BARELY fit in my garage. So what say ye - what's a good truck/trailer combo for my use case?
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