snettleship

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lotus-/130631479017?pt=Race_Cars_Not_Street_Legal_&hash=item1e6a3e2ee9 This is the Series 4 Lotus I owned from 2002-2010. I sold it and it is back on the market. I know the guy that bought is did some upgrades and is the meticulous type. This is the Series 4 Lotus I owned from 2002-2010. I sold it and it is back on the market. I know the guy that bought is did some upgrades and is the meticulous type. If anyone want's more info, I still have it available. There are also a few Youtube in car videos out there also.

I've decided to sell my 1970 Lotus Seven Series 4 vintage race car. I bought it in 2002, drove it on the highway and have migrated it to a racer now. I've had my eye on formula car vintage racing. Selling price is $23,500. All the details are at http://www.scottnettleship.com/

I think I have the ones that are correct for the hub. But, I believe in the past a couple of wheel studs have been "spun". I've had to cut off several Lug Nuts, One time when I had a shop put on the wheels with excessive torque. With this one hub, 2 studs fit great, the other 2 are not as tight as they should be.

I'm in the process of replacing the wheel studs with longer ones. I have different wheel thicknesses and also thinking about spacers. Anyway, I pulled off the front hub and the rotor. I tapped out the existing studs with a Socket extension. Two of the 4 studs have always be a little loose. I replaced these with new studs by agains tapping them in with a hammer and socket extension. But, of course those two studs are still a little loose. Should I get larger diameter studs or do something with the hub? I wasn't planning to replace the wheel bearing since they were replaced last year. Any advise for repacking and replace them. After the fronts will be the rears. Any advice there (Drum brakes)? Thanks Scott

I'm working on my brake system on my Series 4 Seven. I've never been totally happy with the feel of the Master Cylinder. So any help here would be appreciated... - I pulled the Girling Master Cylinder. It has two ports and a single reservoir with a divider. I'm not sure if the bore size (how can I tell?) - I opened the bleed screw on the left front to see what would happen. Of course, there was no front brake. The rear brake reservior stayed full. But, the pedal went dead to the floor and I could easily role the car with my foot on the brake. Should working dual master cylinder do that? - I'm looking to replace the master cylinder. On the S4 Seven, I don't think I can fit a 2 master cylinder with a balance bar. So' I'm looking to replace with a Dual Integrated Master. - Wildwood has something that looks like it would work. Here are my questions: - What bore sizes do people use? I have 9" disks on the front with a Girling LF14 (2 cylinders) calipers. I have 9" Drums on the back - I'm considering a larger bore size (1 inch) and use a proportioning valve on the front and rear lines. Does this make sense? Or worse yet, a really bad idea? So, what do you folks have, especially the road racers? Thanks Scott

Just got back from LOG/USA7s meeting. It was great to see the Sevens there. I brought my Elite instead of the Seven since it is mostly a track day car now (not as good for 2 people since the passenger seat is out and replaced by an Accusump). Here are a few pix...

Yes, I agree, this is not technically a panhard bar. In the diagram, you can see a triangulated bar that extend from the chassis under the drive shaft to the driver's side trailing arm. In my case the driver's side is on the left, so I assume that's why mine extends toward the left rear wheel. I think the most prudent thing to do is to try and look into wheel backspace and spacers. I have sort of a variety of Panasport and knock-off panasports (9 in all). A space would work on the right rear since the rub is on the inside body work. Any advice for wheel spacers? Never used them before and want to make sure it will take the load of cornering. Should I shy away from the universal type? Thanks.

The rub is on the fiberglass bodywork on both sides. With the S4, the bodywork tub us a single formed piece that is attached to the frame. The suspension hangs from the top and the trailing arms are also connected to the frame. The panhard bar connects the with the rear trailing arm on the side of the driver. Then connects to the frame directly under the drive shaft. I've enclosed an image file. So, I believe the lateral load on the drivers' side. Scott

Hello, I was racing at VIR this weekend with a new set of Avon ACB 9 tires I got over the winter. Anyway, these are a little wider than the Hoosier Street TDs I previously used. I have a rub on the 'outside left rear' and 'inside left rear'. Basically on hard right hand corners. Here are the stat's on the tires: SIZE--------APPROV RIMS--Measured RIM--TYRE DIA--SECTION WIDTH--THREAD WIDTH ACB 9 6.5/23.0-13---5.5-6.5----------5.5----------22.7----------8.5---------------6.7 Hoosier A70/13-------5.0-7.0----------5.0-----------22.4---------7.5---------------6.2 So they are rubbing on the shoulders. I'd like to be able to adjust the panhard bar on my Series 4 Seven. But, I need the suspension tuning for dummies course. They also use rubber bushings and was wondering with going to polly ones would reduce the sway. Anyway, and detailed information would be appreciated. I'm enclosing some pics of the setup. Thanks as always. Scott

I have a friend of mine who has suggested that in PA roads are constantly under construction because roads are build there and then shipped to other states....

I'm looking to replace the radiator (Coventry) which has a temperature sender with a temperature switch, which I will have wired to a relay and the fan. I've been to several parts stores with several parts reference books. What I have (picture from a TR6) is http://info.rockauto.com/UROparts/Detail.html?DAC2583.jpg This is a 5/8 thread. But, it is a sender which is suppose to go to a gauge. What I need is a 2 pole version that simply closes the switch at the preset temperature. Since most cars of the era had the fan turn off the engine, I'm wondering if this part even exists for this application? So, I think my two choices, if someone can't point me to the exact part, preferably off of a specific car/model/year, is get another completely different one, (say 3/8 thread) and try and find a female/male 3/8 to 5/8 adapter. Or, get one of those "in the radiator hose" sensors which make me nervous under pressure of a 7500 RPM engine. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated! Scott

As a part of the decision, I figured I'd post some maps. I picked a very arbitrary 800km (500 mile) radius around some points. I wasn't too exacting on spots so there is margin of error. The 3 places I listed are, St. Louis, Montana (Billings in this case) and Niagra Falls where there has been an offer to host. I used the radius of what I thought was a maximum single day driver (you milage will vary). This is simply in the food for thought category when considering where to host next. Of course having someone to host and provided the considerable work that goes into it is a great deciding factor. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/1889955641_mapradius- STL.jpg http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/569964462_mapradius- Montana.jpg http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/610343979_mapradius- Buffalo.jpg :7fume:

Al, Yes, I think this is a great time to start the planning stages with recommendations from club members. As for places, I think sites can't help but be a bit regional. Also, folks who only have so much vacation to spend on family will dictate dates. There are of course exceptions say Easter week more towards the south, but I would suspect for these folks they will be somewhat restricted to mid June through mid August. Also, seems like for most Sevens oriented roads tend to gravitate towards twisty mountians. Certainly not a requirement, but that seems like what folks view as scenic. I think people should vote the "Places" they would be willing to attend. If all of the above, then vote for all of them. This would help in determining what are the places people are willing to travel to. Heck, might be that many people would be willing to travel a longer distance in some cases. Low votes doesn't indicate a low interest in a national event, maybe just lower interest in those locations. Every National Club has these problems, but auto clubs are bad since hopping on a plane isn't as much in the spirit (unless of course you have the local dealer willing to rent LSIS cars...). I also like the idea of a "moving" Event, but the logistics of packing/unpacking hotels/trailers and having activities for the "non-Seven drivers" might be more difficult. Finally, while the list here is very interesting, the most critical aspect is who is willing to host? Who will be finding and negotiating with hotels, parks, activities...? I would expect that people involved in hosting will be somewhat regional. Probably should be hosted by leaders of a "regional" part of the club. Al & Mazda did a great job at TOD even though they were a healthy drive from there. If there are people out there who would be interested in providing hosting help, I think you should contact Al, since he us such a good instigator, and insdicate if you are willing to help with any choices above, or if you have somewhere else in mind. There, that is enough opinion for now.

Another thing for you open cockpit folks.... It was a good thing I was wearing my arm restraints. I don't know if I would have raised my arm up any higher if they were not on, but I'm glad I didn't need to find out. Funny thing is that I never remembered letting go of the steering wheel.

Sorry, for lack of response, was away for a while...... - in the S4 there is a pin at the top of the bonnet that you push into a "latch", -------------------- --------****----- -------***** ---- --------****----- -------------------- so, when when pin pushes into this, the sping "catches the beveled pin" and holds the bonnet down. This is also spring loaded so it will "pop-up" easily. That "latch" broke in half and the spring lifted it up. I have 2 rubber latches on each side as backup. unfortunately, under heavy breaking, with the broken latch it slide forward the inch or two to get it out of the slot that the bonnet fits into at the front of the car. Since the rubber bonnet hooks are flexible "left/right", that's what caused the whole thing to up over my head (thankfully). - It's easy to see on the camera the bonnet vibrating a little since it is mounted on the roll bar. It always moved a little, and it wasn't as obvious at driver's height. You bet I'll be looking more carefully now! - Racing there again 2nd week of December. Installing a hopefully fail safe for this problem to connect the bonnet to the scuttle.... https://www.europaspares.com/BRIGHTWORK/FASTENERS/QUALITY_LEATHER_BONNET_STRAPS___BROWN___LCSBRL__1853.html - Let's see, what else. The blue car is a Chevon B-8 Coupe. Not sure of the year

I was racing at Roebling Road near Savannah Georgia. The Series 4 Seven has a "pin" that goes down into a "latch" which you open and close with a spring loaded lever under the bonnet. I also have two (one on each side) of the old rubber bonnet hooks to keep it stable. Also on my car, the bonnet is a fiberglass shell, that pivots at the front. It has been modified so that it can slide out easily to be removed. This works great when working on the car. Well, while running a race, the metal latch broke :willy: causing the bonnet to not have the required "fore and aft" support. This turned into a bad combination as you can see here... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nnHI4H-ZbFQ Apparently, lift off at 90+ mph can get as the kids say now.... "big air"! But, myself, the car and the bonnet survived (except for a few cracks and some gel coat cracks) to race again 3 weeks later. What have we learned.... check all fasteners every time! :iagree: Scott

Count me in for one men's watch. I can give it to someone to give it back to for Christmas.... Scott Nettleship:thumbs:

I'll take 2 large and 2 large Yellow.... thanks Scott

I plan on bringing my race setup: - Sony 8mm Handycam - Remote helmet cam attached to top of roll bar.

For me, and my Series 4 Seven this would need to be more of a "game time" decision as far as rides & drives. If someone is interested in this series of Lotus, which also has some mods for Vintage Racing, I'd certainly talk to them and see what the interest is.

I did a little more searching and found this thread on a Elans forum.... http://www.lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12781

More questions on blocks. I found someone willing to sell me a 711M block. But I was able to locate 691M blocks also. What little I have been able to gather, these were a stepping stone from the 681M Cortina block to the uprated 711M block. I think this was used in Formula Fords in 1969/1970. Maybe others? Anyone have more information on these?

Actually, since I'm running this in a vintage group I have (I think) the stock cortina flywheel, clutch and transmission.

I posted previous about thinking I found liquid in a cylinder. After a leakdown test and having the head pulled, we found there were cracks in the block between cylinders 2 & 3. So, I need to start looking for a 711M 6015BA block in the US. Any suggestions on how to best do this? Scott (sobbing quietly at my keyboard...)

When I get home, I can throw a match in and see... http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/wink5.gif I will take a sample and do hope that it was not all H20. WOuld it nake sense that it was gas since the car has been sitting for a month? Scott