gjd6640

As info, the exhaust-side engine mounts tend to melt and fall out due to their proximity to the headers. You might want to consider adding a heat shield around that mount. Here's some info about one way to protect it: http://idisagree.org/wikitest/tiki-index.php?page=Engine+Mounts&structure=WCM+Ultralite+Unofficial+Wiki

uShip.com is a site that acts as a sort of load planner for haulers. You can use it to advertise the move that you want to make and the haulers that have capacity between your origin and destination location will bid on the job. You'll be able to confirm any details that you'd like with the hauler (confidence in timing, enclosed trailer, insurance) before accepting the bid. I used uShip once and a guy who typically moves motorcycles agree to move my seven. Was a good experience at a much better price than the big-name car hauler companies (those basically use a form of uShip to map your load to a truck and they pocket the difference between what they charge you and what they get the trucker to accept).

You'll want to specify the stroke length that you're looking for. I think Ultralites typically use a 4" stroke but double-check that info with Loren before trusting it as I'm not 100% confident of the 4" number. IIRC mine used 82 series shocks with the 5" stroke when I got it and I had to replace them with the 4" model because the shock body was too long and severely limited suspension travel.

PM sent. I love the idea of having a wiki. That makes it easy for group members to share information without going through a middle-man. As a matter of fact, I set up a wiki a while back with this purpose in mind. I'm not thrilled with the free wiki software that I chose. Here's a link to it: http://idisagree.org/wikitest/tiki-index.php?page=WCM+Ultralite+Unofficial+Wiki Feel free to browse it and use any of the info that you find on that wiki (it's pretty sparse) in the manual that you're working on. If anyone wants access to contribute to the wiki content if I recall correctly the process is to click the "Log in" link, then click "Register", and then I think it notifies me of the need to sign off on the new account (this is necessary due to spammers' bots). If I get any requests in the next week or two I'll probably just sign them off without verifying that they're not spam bots so that you don't have to wait long to get going. If rnr knows of some better wiki software and wants to set one up my feelings wouldn't be hurt a bit. I'd be willing to port the content on my wiki over to his and then close mine down and just leave a pointer to his wiki.

Have you heard back from Bogart yet?

I'm using Falken Azenis tires at the moment and have observed that in autocross-type conditions (including very spirited street use) running 18 to 20 lbs is a recipe for snap oversteer. Setup: 18" wheels & the resulting low tire profile, zero degrees camber & ride height is set fairly high for clearance on the street. When I run 30+ lbs I get good behavior from the rear. Grips well in a straight line, breaks away progressively (when I want it to), and just generally works really well. When running 18-20lbs at a club autocross-style 'driver skills' event one of the very experienced guys there advised me that what was happening was that the tire was 'rolling over' under load which greatly reduces the contact patch and causes the snap oversteer. Later I tested his theory by upping my pressures and have been very happy with the results. What explains all of the 18-20lbs recommendations that I find here? If tire rollover is indeed the culprit are others dealing with that by running just enough camber to prevent rollover?

When you try the silicone don't get in a hurry and let it half dry and then go for a drive figuring that the heat will cure it. It won't and you'll end up redoing it. Let it cure cold for the recommended timeframe to save yourself the trouble of doing it twice. I've used silicone with good results on a 4 to 1 slip-in collector that was a little gappy and leaking as a result. I disconnected the collector, pulled it off, cleaned the pipes to help it to stick, smeared a bead of silicone inside the collector and just a little on the outside of the pipe, pushed them together, and wiped off any that was still showing. Minor exhaust backfiring can happen due to normal amounts of unburned fuel remaining in the exhaust if you have fresh air (oxygen) leaking in at the (very) hot end of the exhaust system so if that's what you're experiencing then sealing up the system will help. If the backfire is on the intake side then you'll want to track down the cause of that.

I think there's an ultralite owner in KC. Maybe he'll volunteer to take you for a ride. I'm not too far away (Omaha) but don't have any specific plans to take the car to KC this year. If you happen to be coming here for some reason PM me. Also, I met a locost owner at a show in KC last year that frequents locostusa.com. I'm terrible with names so you'll just have to search for KC owners or make a similar post on locostusa.com to find him. He might know of local events that have sevens and/or be willing to take you for a ride.

I've used http://www.uship.com/ once before to find a commercial hauler with good results. If you decide to go the commercial route this way takes the middle-man out of the loop which not only saves you money but lets you control the timeline and terms. The auto shipper 'call center' type operations aren't typically set up to give you a concrete schedule for when the hire will occur and when that trucker will be ready for pick-up.

I'm not much of a videographer but here is some video that I shot this Friday at the Run N Gun 2010 event at MPH: That yellow Stalker is an LS3-powered 480hp beast. Enjoy! ** Edited to correctly identify the make of the yellow car - thanks MHKFlyer52 & jbanker! **

I bought this car in April 2009. It is not for sale.

I've been thinking about doing this someday. I'd like to see the pics of the shield before you mount it and again afterward so that we can see how you put it together. Are you planning to start with an off-the-shelf shield, cut it down to the needed length, and then ceramic coat it?

That AZ dealer still has it. He's asking $26,900. I think that car is going to be hard to sell at that price. It certainly is unique but finding buyers in that price bracket will be tough. http://www.vintageoffroad.com/viewvehicle.cfm?id=769

Did anyone ever buy this? Speak up and tell us what you think of how it drives!

On mine that mount is powdercoated but is configured the same way (has that standoff block behind it). I'm guessing that the mount was damaged and repaired.