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plbs1234

Registered User
  • Posts

    31
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Personal Information

  • Biography
    My name is Paul Mascuch
  • Location
    Southwest Idaho
  • Interests
    Falconry, Fishing, & British Cars
  • Occupation
    Retired Engineer
  1. Coffee Break - Yes it is a crossflow with dualWeber DCOE 40’s. Since my post I have torn down the carbs and found 3 of the 4 accelerator pump jets plugged. Paul
  2. I have a 1986 Caterhan S-3 Super Sprint. I’m having trouble getting the engine from idle to full throttle. When I step on the throttle the engine bogs down and I have to pump the throttle to get it to rev. Above 2000-3000 rpm it runs fine. My distributor has. Vacuum unit attached, but it is not attached to any vacuum source. Did Caterham use a distributor with a vacuum advance,but not use it? What should the advance be at idle? Thank you, Paul Mascuch Idaho
  3. Gentlemen - What is your recommendation for a street tire for my 1986 Caterham? Thank you, Paul
  4. Any concern about touring without a spare tire? Paul 1986 Caterham 1600
  5. Thanks guys. Your input is very helpful. I'll take a serious look at the repair route. Best regards, Paul
  6. I've had no response to the above inquiry. Can anybody give me some guidance? Should I go to Caterham USA or does someone else source these parts? Thanks, Paul
  7. My car is a 1986 Caterham with clamshell front fenders. This coming winter I want to repaint the car. My fiberglass parts are a little ragged and stress cracked and I'd like to replace them with new parts. Who is the best source to find a new nosecone, front wings, and rears wings for this car? Thanks, Paul
  8. Thank you for all the reply's and thoughts. After reading the suggested threads and doing a search on the site for overheating I became concerned I might have a head gasket problem or even a cracked head. I see no coolant in the oil and no bubbles in the radiator. I contacted the shop that did the valve job and they said they ran a pressure test on the head and everything checked out OK. To rule out cracks or the new head gasket being blown I ran a radiator test for combustion products using a Belkamp Fluid Block Leak Tester. I never got any change in the fluid color so apparently I'm not leaking from the engine combustion areas into the water jacket. I upped the radiator cap to a 16 pound unit and added waterwetter to the radiator. When the engine was up to temperature I drained enough coolant out to actually see the thermostat and it was wide open. At this point I should be OK with the higher pressure cap and keeping a close eye on the temp gauge. My next step will be to switch to Evans Waterless Coolant. This will eliminate any boil-over and hopefully give some improved cooling, especially in the engine hot spots where the existing coolant may be vaporizing locally. We're just getting to the really hot (100 degrees +) weather here in Idaho. I'll be interested to see how the cooling system works at the higher temps. Only other thing I can think to try is going to a higher performance radiator for improved cooling. Thanks again for the help. Best regards, Paul
  9. I am continuing to work on Pandora (Caterham Series 3) trying to have it reliable for road trips. I've sorted out my electrical problems, got the emissions to a low enough level to pass the state emissions test, added an electric fuel pump to solve the vapor lock problems I was experiencing, and have the Weber DCOE 40's adjusted so the car is running well. Took it out for a test drive today and all was well until I hit the interstate and drove at 75 mph. At speed the coolant gauge climbed until it was reading about 225 degrees. Running a 50/50 water antifreeze mixture with a 7 pound radiator cap. When I pulled over the coolant in the overflow bottle was actively boiling. I assume that as the coolant expanded and vented to the overflow bottle at atmospheric pressure it was hot enough to boil. I calculate that the boiling point of the coolant in the radiator under pressure is about 240 degrees. My question is, will running at 225 to 230 degrees coolant temp hurt the engine? Is this temperature normal when the car is being pushed hard? The thermostat is new and as part of passing emissions I had a valve job done so the head gasket is new and the head was surfaced and is newly torqued. When I slowed down after getting off the highway the coolant temp returned to normal range, although it took longer than I would have expected. Any suggestions? Thank you. Paul
  10. How about 4PLAY or U4EA? Paul
  11. I'm having trouble getting my 1986 Caterham with Kent crossflow to pass emissions. I replaced all the ignition parts and added an MSD ignition module. I also leaned out the DCOE 40's. This got me very close to passing, but I need to still get a little cleaner. Has anyone else added a catalytic converter to allow them to pass emissions? If so what converter did you use? Thanks, Paul
  12. Thanks, but I'm looking for the proper Champion or NGK spark plug uper Sprint Ford crossflow engine. Paul
  13. What is the proper spark plug for a 1.7 Super Sprint Ford crossflow engine? Thanks, Paul
  14. You can always tell when a politician is lying. Their lips are moving. Paul
  15. I have an 86 Caterham with a 1700 Super Sprint cross flow engine. It is equipped with dual Weber 40 DCOE carbs. Since this car is less than 30 years old I can not get classic plates which would avoid emissions testing. I have to pass an idle emissions level of 1.2 ppm CO and 220 ppm hydrocarbons. I ended up testing 5.62 ppm CO and 2961 ppm hydrocarbons. I know Caterham has a fairly aggressive cam to get 135 hp from this engine. Should I be able to tune the timing and carbs to pass this test? Any suggestions would be very welcome. Thanks, Paul
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