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About plbs1234

  • Rank
    Junior Member

Personal Information

  • Biography
    My name is Paul Mascuch
  • Location
    Southwest Idaho
  • Interests
    Falconry, Fishing, & British Cars
  • Occupation
    Retired Engineer
  1. Gentlemen - What is your recommendation for a street tire for my 1986 Caterham? Thank you, Paul
  2. Any concern about touring without a spare tire? Paul 1986 Caterham 1600
  3. Thanks guys. Your input is very helpful. I'll take a serious look at the repair route. Best regards, Paul
  4. I've had no response to the above inquiry. Can anybody give me some guidance? Should I go to Caterham USA or does someone else source these parts? Thanks, Paul
  5. My car is a 1986 Caterham with clamshell front fenders. This coming winter I want to repaint the car. My fiberglass parts are a little ragged and stress cracked and I'd like to replace them with new parts. Who is the best source to find a new nosecone, front wings, and rears wings for this car? Thanks, Paul
  6. Thank you for all the reply's and thoughts. After reading the suggested threads and doing a search on the site for overheating I became concerned I might have a head gasket problem or even a cracked head. I see no coolant in the oil and no bubbles in the radiator. I contacted the shop that did the valve job and they said they ran a pressure test on the head and everything checked out OK. To rule out cracks or the new head gasket being blown I ran a radiator test for combustion products using a Belkamp Fluid Block Leak Tester. I never got any change in the fluid color so apparently I'm
  7. I am continuing to work on Pandora (Caterham Series 3) trying to have it reliable for road trips. I've sorted out my electrical problems, got the emissions to a low enough level to pass the state emissions test, added an electric fuel pump to solve the vapor lock problems I was experiencing, and have the Weber DCOE 40's adjusted so the car is running well. Took it out for a test drive today and all was well until I hit the interstate and drove at 75 mph. At speed the coolant gauge climbed until it was reading about 225 degrees. Running a 50/50 water antifreeze mixture with a 7 poun
  8. I'm having trouble getting my 1986 Caterham with Kent crossflow to pass emissions. I replaced all the ignition parts and added an MSD ignition module. I also leaned out the DCOE 40's. This got me very close to passing, but I need to still get a little cleaner. Has anyone else added a catalytic converter to allow them to pass emissions? If so what converter did you use? Thanks, Paul
  9. Thanks, but I'm looking for the proper Champion or NGK spark plug uper Sprint Ford crossflow engine. Paul
  10. What is the proper spark plug for a 1.7 Super Sprint Ford crossflow engine? Thanks, Paul
  11. You can always tell when a politician is lying. Their lips are moving. Paul
  12. I have an 86 Caterham with a 1700 Super Sprint cross flow engine. It is equipped with dual Weber 40 DCOE carbs. Since this car is less than 30 years old I can not get classic plates which would avoid emissions testing. I have to pass an idle emissions level of 1.2 ppm CO and 220 ppm hydrocarbons. I ended up testing 5.62 ppm CO and 2961 ppm hydrocarbons. I know Caterham has a fairly aggressive cam to get 135 hp from this engine. Should I be able to tune the timing and carbs to pass this test? Any suggestions would be very welcome. Thanks, Paul
  13. Thanks for all the replies. They are very helpful. I bought my car this past summer off the LONY site from a fellow in Fredrick, MD. When the car is run in temps less than 100 degrees and I'm not pushing the car hard it runs fine. The engine is a cross flow so the carbs are on the opposite side of the engine from the exhaust manifold and pipes. I think the engine bay just gets so hot at the high temps we get here in the summer that the fuel is vaporizing in the line and the engine driven pump just can't pull fuel because of the vapor. When it quits it acts like fuel starvatio
  14. I have a 1985 Caterham with the Kent 1700 Super Sprint engine. While driving on hot (100+) days this summer the car would vapor lock and shut down. I'd have to wait for everything to cool down before it would restart. Running it hard after it had restarted would lead to it vapor locking again. I'd like to remove the engine driven fuel pump and cover the opening in the block with a blank plate, and then install an electric fuel pump back near where the fuel line exits from the tank. Has anyone else done this on their car and did it help? I have Weber 40 DCOE's. What pressure
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