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notakit

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November 27, 2010

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An original OR plate complete with a '60 metal tab will be a nice finishing touch to this project.

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The numer two reason to install a radiator; so the second bulkhead's diagonal brace doesn't make the 7 look like a volvo!

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Why, its a transmission mount!

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Lighter, faster, sexier?

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Can anyone tell what this is going to be?

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The horizontal pieces are perfectly level and parallel. The slight asymmetric gap at the top is due to an uneven fiberglass opening. You and I are the only ones that will notice this. On to the three vertical bars!

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out of boredom I decided to build a grill from aluminum.

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Motor mounts with the required clearance for a narrow steering column.

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I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel (or manifold) here, just changing the carbs from 30º to level and adding a half inch to stay as far away from the header as possible.

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One half of the dual SU manifolds

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The head side of the intake manifolds

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An original 1960 Oregon plate complete with it's metal plate shows how the same 7" center-to-center spare tire mounts double as the license plate mount when I leave the spare at home.

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The beginning of a motor mount.

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Someone asked me what kind of mill I was using. ha!

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always checking the frame dimensions after every step in welding.

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I brazed one continuous tube through both bulkheads to assure the lower a-arm mounts are aligned with each other. The next step will be cutting the mid section out.

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tig welds with steel for crucial joints

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Starting the lower A-arm build

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Trying to look original without claiming to be original.

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I've rolled the front fender frames to be 2.5" above the tires. I didn't want the tire-hugging clearance of current fiberglass fenders nor the 4WD looking original design that was mounted to the

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These are the wire frames that border the aluminum fenders. Front fenders in this picture.

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Ah, much better! A 1960 Lotus 7 series II-A nose.

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The rear shocks are on their way from England. I'll weld the lower shock mounts once I have the shocks in my hands.

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The tank strapped in place. I will use a rubber strip under the fuel tank's straps for the final assembly. The next step is welding an angled fill-tube to the tank and picking up a short length of rubber hose to attach it to the Monza cap's nipple.

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Two of these tabs extend beyond the tank for the retaining straps. The aluminum nut-serts allow easy replacement should the threads get buggered up.

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