imarcr2 Posted January 12, 2020 Share Posted January 12, 2020 (edited) Recently picked up a WCM Ultralite S2k. I have the manual, but had some questions. The manual mentions Charlie using 2.5mm of rear toe OUT per side. Rest of alignment was about -2.5 degrees of camber front, -2.2 degrees rear Front toe was -.2mm per side Other alignments I was able to dig up among forum members typically had a bit less camber front and rear often paired with slight toe in front and often 0 toe in the rear. Never dealt with a 7, but often run 0 toe all around in a Miata used for autocross. I am looking to autocross the car, but for right now I would like to tame a very nervous car(mainly over bumps). I am also looking to shim the tie rod end to level out the rack. Shocks are the QA-1 with 500f/400r springs(I am told, but not sure). Just looking for some direction on alignment. Edited January 12, 2020 by imarcr2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imarcr2 Posted January 12, 2020 Author Share Posted January 12, 2020 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imarcr2 Posted January 12, 2020 Author Share Posted January 12, 2020 Little concerned seems as if the tie rod ends need to move down slight lightly but they are already resting on the spindle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imarcr2 Posted January 13, 2020 Author Share Posted January 13, 2020 The angle of the tie rods are between 2.5 and 3.5 degrees off of level...they in fact go upward from the center of the car to the attachment points on the spindle. Moving the rod ends under the spindle would result in them being way further off of level than they are now so not sure how I can level the arms....maybe raise ride height? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderbrake Posted January 13, 2020 Share Posted January 13, 2020 I ran my tie rods to the bottom of the spindle arm. I ran 4 deg caster, - 1/4 deg camber, 1/16 toe in (front) -1 camber, 0 toe (rear) The guys more into autocrossing ran the front camber at -1 to -1.5, toe in around .1" . Rear camber -1 to -1.5, and 0 toe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imarcr2 Posted January 13, 2020 Author Share Posted January 13, 2020 Jerry did you get the tie rods to perfectly level or just close? Not sure my 3.5 degrees from level is really bad or just not ideal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mondo Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 Hi, Loren did a lot of racing with his cars and gave me spring recommendations of 450-550f/250-275r. Loren said he liked his car on the stiff side and had 550/275. I have 450/250 and think it's pretty good for road/canyons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderbrake Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 (edited) Jerry did you get the tie rods to perfectly level or just close? Not sure my 3.5 degrees from level is really bad or just not ideal. Actually I never checked them to see if they were level or not. I believe that would change with ride height. My ride height was 5 1/4 rear, just in front of the rear fender, and 4 1/4 in the front, where the frame cuts in toward the center. I had 500f/400 r springs. ( at this ride height I needed a skid plate under the sump to aggressively drive it on back roads) Also in the rear, the lower front traverse rod was moved from the vertical bolt between the two mounting points, up to the upper mounting point, and the vertical bolt was removed. Edited January 14, 2020 by powderbrake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imarcr2 Posted January 14, 2020 Author Share Posted January 14, 2020 "Also in the rear, the lower front traverse rod was moved from the vertical bolt between the two mounting points, up to the upper mounting point, and the vertical bolt was removed." Could you explain this? Thanks for all the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderbrake Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 "Also in the rear, the lower front traverse rod was moved from the vertical bolt between the two mounting points, up to the upper mounting point, and the vertical bolt was removed." Could you explain this? Thanks for all the help The original Ultralites came with a vertical rod so you could adjust the location of the rod end. Take out the vertical bolt and secure the rod end in the upper frame mount position. Here is a pic of the vertical rod. Here is a pic with the rod end in the upper mount. Sorry about the picture orientation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imarcr2 Posted January 15, 2020 Author Share Posted January 15, 2020 got it, thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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