ukchris Posted October 24, 2021 Share Posted October 24, 2021 My rear boot cover is not currently installed, it has all of the studs in place on three sides, the back edge has holes that align with the belt mounts. Is the “standard” approach to remove the bolts for the belts and use (just those) to secure it or to also add fasteners / rivets / screws? ideally I’d like it to be removable but I don’t think it’ll stretch over the belt mounts so I’d have to cut around them which I’m not eager to do. Are there other options? Looking at it I think I could put fabric fasteners along the bar behind the seats on the rear facing side but arguably it’d be less weatherproof. Do any of you have better suggestions or does everyone general go with a semi-permanent install with the belt mounts securing it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrmustang Posted October 24, 2021 Share Posted October 24, 2021 (edited) I have five male snaps, equally spaced, screwed down to install mine, but I did have to carefully notch it so the bolts for the shoulder straps (not shown installed in picture) could stay in place. The front snaps are for the rear of the tonneau cockpit cover. I can take detailed pictures for you next weekend if you need them so you can get a better understanding of how it is mounted. Hope you find this helpful. Bill S. Edited October 24, 2021 by mrmustang missed part of description Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukchris Posted October 24, 2021 Author Share Posted October 24, 2021 (edited) 11 minutes ago, mrmustang said: I have five male snaps, equally spaced, screwed down to install mine, but I did have to carefully notch it so the bolts for the shoulder straps (not shown installed in picture) could stay in place. The front snaps are for the rear of the tonneau cockpit cover. I can take detailed pictures for you next weekend if you need them so you can get a better understanding of how it is mounted. Hope you find this helpful. Bill S. Thanks Bill, much appreciated. So in essence you slit around the bolts so it can still be removed with them in place, correct? Did you stitch around the slit or anything similar to reinforce the vinyl? My inclination is to do the same with a fastener either side of the belt mounts to try to keep things snug. Did you remove the metal bar that’s stitched into the cover entirely? Edited October 24, 2021 by ukchris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrmustang Posted October 24, 2021 Share Posted October 24, 2021 Just now, ukchris said: Thanks Bill, much appreciated. So in essence you slit around the bolts so it can still be removed with them in place, correct? Did you stitch around the slit or anything similar to reinforce the vinyl? My inclination is to do the same with a fastener either side of the belt mounts to try to keep things snug. I did not stitch around the slits, but used a quality automotive carpet/trim adhesive to keep them attached to the backer board. The spacing of the male snaps for when the tonneau ever gets installed, start in the middle and work your way out, you may need to place the farthest snaps out from the center to clear the shoulder strap bolts, can't remember if I did nor not, but they do work well for the drivers side (SWMBO prefers the stock 3 point harness at the moment) without the need for 6th and 7th snap needing to be installed....... Bill S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukchris Posted October 24, 2021 Author Share Posted October 24, 2021 By backer board do you mean the bar stiched into the tonneau? You’d have to have cut that, correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrmustang Posted October 24, 2021 Share Posted October 24, 2021 1 hour ago, ukchris said: By backer board do you mean the bar stiched into the tonneau? You’d have to have cut that, correct? Yes, you will need to make a small, "U" shaped cut to radius around where the threaded bolt holes are located. It's a hair over 1/4" on mine. I'll post a picture when I can. Bill S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukchris Posted October 24, 2021 Author Share Posted October 24, 2021 23 minutes ago, mrmustang said: Yes, you will need to make a small, "U" shaped cut to radius around where the threaded bolt holes are located. It's a hair over 1/4" on mine. I'll post a picture when I can. Bill S. Got it, I was contemplating removing the strip thinking it’d make it much easier to install fabric snaps, I’m thinking regular snaps aren’t going to have the reach to get through the fabric and the bar? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrmustang Posted October 24, 2021 Share Posted October 24, 2021 27 minutes ago, ukchris said: Got it, I was contemplating removing the strip thinking it’d make it much easier to install fabric snaps, I’m thinking regular snaps aren’t going to have the reach to get through the fabric and the bar? The screws that came with my fastener kit for the Tonneau are 1/2" long, Removing the strip I do not recommend as it is used as a stiffener (it prevents the material from being pulled and torn), if you want, you can always move it back accordingly and install that way. When you see mine as it is now, with the shoulder harness installed, you'll see it makes for a cleaner install/build for the boot cover and the harness assembly. Bill S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukchris Posted October 24, 2021 Author Share Posted October 24, 2021 I don’t have the double sided fasteners, don’t have a tonneau for the cabin for that matter, the fabric snaps I have will not reach through the fabric and the bar so it’ll either have to go or I’ll need to research snaps with a link her reach. Do the standard ones screw in or rivet? I would suppose it’s easier as both sides are “open” so you could drill a hole and rivet straight through? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukchris Posted October 24, 2021 Author Share Posted October 24, 2021 Actually as I think about it I suppose I could rivet through a male on the top and a female on the bottom, why didn’t that occur to me? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrmustang Posted October 24, 2021 Share Posted October 24, 2021 47 minutes ago, ukchris said: I don’t have the double sided fasteners, don’t have a tonneau for the cabin for that matter, the fabric snaps I have will not reach through the fabric and the bar so it’ll either have to go or I’ll need to research snaps with a link her reach. Do the standard ones screw in or rivet? I would suppose it’s easier as both sides are “open” so you could drill a hole and rivet straight through? Originals with the Caterham spec kit have 1/2" long screws, yes, pop rivets will also work, suggest you find stainless steel rivets to prevent any potential galvanic action from occurring over time. Bill S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukchris Posted October 24, 2021 Author Share Posted October 24, 2021 Gotcha. I had planned to have the smooth button on the top side but it’s feeling that will be a lot of hassle - although if I go with fasteners both sides I will need to confirm spacing as I don’t have the tonneau, could be a little annoying for someone to think they could attach it then find the fasteners are in the wrong place! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrmustang Posted October 24, 2021 Share Posted October 24, 2021 6 hours ago, ukchris said: Gotcha. I had planned to have the smooth button on the top side but it’s feeling that will be a lot of hassle - although if I go with fasteners both sides I will need to confirm spacing as I don’t have the tonneau, could be a little annoying for someone to think they could attach it then find the fasteners are in the wrong place! The tonneau cover comes without the hardware installed. The male fasteners get installed on the body first, then the female fasteners get installed in the tonneau cover to fit. Due to the way the fasteners are produced, you cannot install the female parts on the body unless you drill holes in them and install them upside down. Bill S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrmustang Posted October 25, 2021 Share Posted October 25, 2021 Here are two pics I took this AM after a nice 30 mile ride in the sun. In picture number 2, the right shoulder bolt mount leather needs to be re-stretched-glued again, noticed that this AM. Oh well, not difficult to remove, just take the 5 stud screws out and loosen the 2 bolts holding the should harnesses to the chassis. Any questions, just let me know. Bill S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukchris Posted October 25, 2021 Author Share Posted October 25, 2021 So it’s screwed to the bar, correct? i.e. If you wanted to completely remove the boot cover you’d need a screwdriver to do so? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrmustang Posted October 25, 2021 Share Posted October 25, 2021 22 minutes ago, ukchris said: So it’s screwed to the bar, correct? i.e. If you wanted to completely remove the boot cover you’d need a screwdriver to do so? That is correct, there is an aluminum bar located within the front of the boot cover as a stiffener. Could you uses snaps like you see to hold them to the body, I do not see why not, but they will not be a weather tight seal either at that point in time as the boot cover does not overlap towards the rear bulkhead/firewall area. Not in the self built cars, not on the factory built cars, both for a reason.The shoulder harness bolts loosen so the bar and the finish material can slide under the spacer for them. They can then be tightened to hold the bar and material tight as well, if you want to remove the mount spacer so they do not swivel like I have them. Bill S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukchris Posted October 25, 2021 Author Share Posted October 25, 2021 Thanks Bill, I appreciate all of your guidance and patience. Just need to decide now whether to screw it in or not. To me the reality is that if the weather is bad then the roof needs to be up which solves the weather issue, the idea of a watertight boot/trunk and an open cab… The other detail I was debating was not likening exposed studs when I have no tonneau but I also realized there’s no reason I couldn’t have them and snap a smooth cap into them. I think I have all of my fasteners here, I’ll have to do some measuring and experimenting as soon as I can spend some time in the garage. from BAT it looks like you’re keeping busy chasing another 7… good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrmustang Posted October 25, 2021 Share Posted October 25, 2021 1 hour ago, ukchris said: Thanks Bill, I appreciate all of your guidance and patience. Just need to decide now whether to screw it in or not. To me the reality is that if the weather is bad then the roof needs to be up which solves the weather issue, the idea of a watertight boot/trunk and an open cab… The other detail I was debating was not likening exposed studs when I have no tonneau but I also realized there’s no reason I couldn’t have them and snap a smooth cap into them. I think I have all of my fasteners here, I’ll have to do some measuring and experimenting as soon as I can spend some time in the garage. from BAT it looks like you’re keeping busy chasing another 7… good luck! You can also use an industrial grade velcro if you do not want to screw them down, at least for the front where the bar is. You will still need to radius around the bolt holes for the shoulder belts, not difficult to do, just take it all slowly and you'll been just fine. Bill S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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