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  • Biography
  • Location
    Greenville, SC
  • Interests
    Road racing, antique auto restoration
  • Occupation
    The office "Cooler"
  • Se7en
    Caterham 40th Anniversary Edition

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  1. I figured you knew, but put it out there for everyone else, as we do not want to point people to a questionable resource. Bill S.
  2. Just an FYI, top classic cars for sale sucks ads in from around the web and is not a stand alone site. Most of the cars listed have already been sold and are grossly outdated. Think of it as a pass through site that works on "click through" advertising revenue and nothing else.
  3. Classic scam: As for the Superformance S1, I believe this car was offered here two or three years ago
  4. Yes, at this point I do, but may be working a deal for the car that includes them. First come, first served
  5. Do not jump in with both feet so quickly, find someone who knows what they are looking at, be it this car, or any others you may run across. You could either be getting a great deal (not likely o0n the web these days), or a real money pit. I tell people all the time, stop, look, listen. You came here looking for guidance, this is your first of what may turn out to be many. Bill S.
  6. Already built one of those about 10 year ago, would prefer an Ariel Atom in that case, but it would be another one of those solo cars, as the wife and I have had the pleasure of driving around VIR in one. Both on track, and around the surrounding countryside as we swapped one of my old Cobras for a few hours with another friend. Bill S.
  7. I have a set of wheel dollies already, rarely have to use them as I can jockey the 4 cars currently in the garage around without them. As for a single car garage, when still living in NJ in that mid 2K's, I had a 10x20 garage with a 7 foot ceiling, it held my 1st 7, a FFR Cobra replica, snow blower, bicycles, lawn furniture and my toolbox (+misc that belongs in a garage), the trick was to swing the 7 sideways, push it almost against the back wall, then bring the cobra replica in....Never an issue, and yes, I could, most likely, squeeze 4 7's in the same space, nose to tail, nose to tail, nose to tail, nose to tail. Bill S.
  8. With the trailer out of the garage, I actually have space for another small car like a 7. I've got a 12 hour drive up to north of Crock's neck of the woods tomorrow, so most likely will miss the end of the auction, since I've already been outbid, it's just not meant to be mine. Bill S.
  9. You can also use an industrial grade velcro if you do not want to screw them down, at least for the front where the bar is. You will still need to radius around the bolt holes for the shoulder belts, not difficult to do, just take it all slowly and you'll been just fine. Bill S.
  10. That is correct, there is an aluminum bar located within the front of the boot cover as a stiffener. Could you uses snaps like you see to hold them to the body, I do not see why not, but they will not be a weather tight seal either at that point in time as the boot cover does not overlap towards the rear bulkhead/firewall area. Not in the self built cars, not on the factory built cars, both for a reason.The shoulder harness bolts loosen so the bar and the finish material can slide under the spacer for them. They can then be tightened to hold the bar and material tight as well, if you want to remove the mount spacer so they do not swivel like I have them. Bill S
  11. Here are two pics I took this AM after a nice 30 mile ride in the sun. In picture number 2, the right shoulder bolt mount leather needs to be re-stretched-glued again, noticed that this AM. Oh well, not difficult to remove, just take the 5 stud screws out and loosen the 2 bolts holding the should harnesses to the chassis. Any questions, just let me know. Bill S.
  12. Upper right hand corner, just below the price, you should see a green "contact seller" button. Click it and you'll need to fill out all of the spaces (name, number, city, state, email, etc) and then you can type a message to the seller and hit submit. If you do not, it may be the security settings in your browser/computer.
  13. The tonneau cover comes without the hardware installed. The male fasteners get installed on the body first, then the female fasteners get installed in the tonneau cover to fit. Due to the way the fasteners are produced, you cannot install the female parts on the body unless you drill holes in them and install them upside down. Bill S.
  14. Originals with the Caterham spec kit have 1/2" long screws, yes, pop rivets will also work, suggest you find stainless steel rivets to prevent any potential galvanic action from occurring over time. Bill S.
  15. The screws that came with my fastener kit for the Tonneau are 1/2" long, Removing the strip I do not recommend as it is used as a stiffener (it prevents the material from being pulled and torn), if you want, you can always move it back accordingly and install that way. When you see mine as it is now, with the shoulder harness installed, you'll see it makes for a cleaner install/build for the boot cover and the harness assembly. Bill S.
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