Common parts from 2.0 and 2.5

[windsurfer]

Hi all, 

 

Ultimately, The build I am after is a destroked 2.5l duratec. Aka 2.3l crankshaft in a 2.5 block (such as JohnCh) 

 

I currently have a Zetec, so it will require headers/ shifting exhaust side / new bonnet etc.

 

Here's my question : I have an opportunity to buy a forged 2.0 and see if it is enough for me. If I decide to switch to the destroked 2.5l will I be able to reuse the dry sump pan and pumb, bell housing, engine mounts, alternator/starter and trottle body?

 

It is not always clear when I look at part number. 

 

Thanks for your help!

[JohnCh]

When you say forged 2.0L, what are the specs?  

 

The following parts are the same: Exhaust, bellhousing, clutch slave cylinder, engine mounts, starter, alternator & mounts.

 

The intake ports are shaped differently and larger on the 2.5L head, so the intake won't fit.  

 

Dry sump is worth a call to Raceline who make the dry sump for Caterham.  They list the 2.0L, 2.3L, and 2.5L dry sump separately and all at the same price.  However, it's not clear to me if the pump or any fitting locations are actually different, or if this is simply done for marketing purposes; I didn't ask when placing my order.  One thing to consider is optimal spec to minimize your losses when selling the 2.0L.  If you pull the dry sump and oil pump (specific for the dry sump) you will need to buy a new oil pump and a wet sump.  The latter isn't cheap.  Given the price difference between the two (about $750 including pump) and the extra cachet the dry sump listing will have, it might not be worth removing the dry sump on that engine and instead selling it as-is.  That's the process I'm following for my 420R engine that I'm putting up for sale in the near future.  Note: if the 2.0L isn't using the Caterham/Raceline dry sump, you may also have to redo the oil lines as port locations and fittings may not work.

 

-John

[windsurfer]

Hi john! Thanks for your answer. The 2.0 duratec has wiseco pistons and k1 con rods. The head is a stock 2.0 head. Clutch and flywheel were upgraded. No throttle body / alternator /no oil pan on it. 

 

I know what you mean with the potential problem if I want to resell the 2.0 after being undressed. (Including no oil pan (wet or dry). 

 

The engine has been honed (0.5mm) and is 1100usd approx. 

 

The thing is that this setup could be enough for what I am looking for. But switching from a zetec to a duratec (with all that implies) just to gain forged internals does not make sens to me (aka I need at least to be on a path for another upgrade option). 

 

Maybe it doesn't make sens and I should do everything together but it's too much money for now.  Opinions are welcome :-)

 

 

 

 

[JohnCh]

What about the cams?  The stock pistons limit the amount of valve lift the engine can accommodate, which roughly equates to cams that cap out at about 210-220hp.  It seems odd that the person wouldn't have fitted more aggressive cams to get into the >220hp range if they went through the effort of rods and pistons, unless the engine had an issue, and they were simply rebuilding with an eye towards the future. 

 

Without knowing the backstory, the lack of an oil pan and the price would be a bit of a red flag for me, and I would go into this assuming it would need at least a refresh.  But at $1100 for a long block, if it works, it's a good deal and I wouldn't worry much about the resell price I mentioned earlier.  As you know, you'll spend a lot more getting the engine and chassis ready for the swap.  BTW you didn't mention ECU in your list above.  Do you have an aftermarket ECU that can be reprogrammed for the Duratec?  If not and you are running the Ford ECU used in many Zetec Caterhams, you should make sure that can be reused.  Aftermarket ECUs aren't cheap.

 

-John

 

 

 

 

[windsurfer]

The cams being limitatives is certainly a good point! 

 

Thanks!

[windsurfer]

My caterham has a Omex Ecu. If I recall it's the 500 serie. Not the most advanced but it should do the job.

 

Best regards!