weconway Posted March 5, 2008 Posted March 5, 2008 That's a long, expensive and dangerous path you're treading. I know several guys who got hooked on machining in a bad way.
JohnK Posted March 6, 2008 Posted March 6, 2008 This is such a test of one's discipline. Too many cool things, too little time. I'm at the tail end of a project where I designed a brake system for my car from scratch. If I hadn't taken the time to learn a CAD package, I couldn't have done it. If I'd taken the time to do a CNC setup, I could have done it even better (and perhaps cheaper). Being able to create things you'd like to have for your car is really fun, BUT is it worth the time away from time you can spend getting crossed up in the twisties out in the boondocks? Cheers, PS, thanks for the URL - it'll be helpful as I'm in the process of deciding whether or not to buy a Grizzly G0484 Mill.
xromad Posted March 6, 2008 Posted March 6, 2008 I've been taking evening machining classes through the local Vo-Tech. I'm about 2 years into the program and it is still some of the most fun stuff I've ever studied. Expensive hobby, and it's not like I don't have other expensive hobbies. :7head:
slngsht Posted March 6, 2008 Author Posted March 6, 2008 well, I think I'm gonna try a CNC router in the next few months to see how it goes. At one point in time, I had a bridgeport mill, a southbend lathe, welder, plasma cutter, lift, dyno, etc... in my shop, but never any CNC equipment. I already have a TIG and plasma cutter on the way :hurray: TIG will be completely new to me.
BobDrye Posted March 6, 2008 Posted March 6, 2008 well, I think I'm gonna try a CNC router in the next few months to see how it goes. At one point in time, I had a bridgeport mill, a southbend lathe, welder, plasma cutter, lift, dyno, etc... in my shop, but never any CNC equipment. I already have a TIG and plasma cutter on the way :hurray: TIG will be completely new to me. Maz: When you state that you can tig most car nuts will ask you if you do aluminum. The secret is that it's more about the sound than it is with steel. If it looks wet you better not be adding much more heat. Add filler and move on. Welding steel is like talking to a guy, welding aluminum is like talking to a moody woman. Just because you scored with her yesterday doesn't mean you will today. :7head:
slngsht Posted March 6, 2008 Author Posted March 6, 2008 Maz: When you state that you can tig most car nuts will ask you if you do aluminum. The secret is that it's more about the sound than it is with steel. If it looks wet you better not be adding much more heat. Add filler and move on. Welding steel is like talking to a guy, welding aluminum is like talking to a moody woman. Just because you scored with her yesterday doesn't mean you will today. :7head: :lol: or next week The TIG is a ACDC unit, so I'll play a little with Aluminum as well.
S1Steve Posted March 6, 2008 Posted March 6, 2008 Hi, The real fun is Tig welding stainless steel or 5% chrome and 9% chrome in 12" 525 wall. Like I did for the last 10 hours. The best advice I can give someone is , Use the correct wire. It easy to say ,Oh this will work . Not the case for 100% x-ray, when each past will get a PT test. Have fun, Steve
BobDrye Posted March 6, 2008 Posted March 6, 2008 Hi, The real fun is Tig welding stainless steel or 5% chrome and 9% chrome in 12" 525 wall. Like I did for the last 10 hours. The best advice I can give someone is , Use the correct wire. It easy to say ,Oh this will work . Not the case for 100% x-ray, when each past will get a PT test. Have fun, Steve What did you use for skin protection, Coppertone or Hawiian Tropic ? :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
JohnK Posted March 9, 2008 Posted March 9, 2008 I already have a TIG and plasma cutter on the way TIG will be completely new to me. I'll offer the following as a TIG newbie (those with experience can have a good laugh). -Get comfortable gas (oxy-acetylene) welding before you attempt TIG welding. -Roses are red, welders are blue (not the people, the machines). -An Inverter (as opposed to a rectifier) gives you a LOT for the difference in price. -If your budget is large, a water-cooled outfit will allow you a lighter,smaller handle and line; much easier to use. -Aluminum is a piece of cake, provided you: ensure cleanliness; learn how to use the pulser; ensure cleanliness; learn what 'balance' you need; ensure cleanliness; learn that what you do with your left hand (dip, dip, dip, in time with the pulser) is just as important as where and how you're pointing the torch (kinda like playing the violin); ensure cleanliness. Spend time running beads on 1/16" 1100 or 3003 - if you have trouble with the puddle being manageable, stop and clean everything. -Personal prefs: I bought a thumb operated contactor and am very pleased that I did so - when I need to get into some awkward position on the car to put on a tab, it makes it vastly easier. Even when I can use a foot contactor, I prefer working with my thumb - the control is much much better IMHO. I've found that 5356 rod makes a huge difference when welding any aluminum, from 1100 to 6061. I flows like brass under a gas torch - but this is most likely a function of the Inverter. Overall, I've found that this technology opens all kinds of doors because it gives you extraordinary control and flexibility - you can even braze with it - and you can craft stuff that looks "factory". BUT, you have to keep everything really really CLEAN (did I mention that?) Cheers,
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