MichaelD Posted December 29, 2010 Author Share Posted December 29, 2010 I just ordered Hush Power part #HP-2 12018400 It is a 18" case with 2" in and out. Price $93.00 from Amazon. I am having a removable roll cage is built by Piper Motor Sports in Sterling, Va. Once the cage is on, they will install the new muffler to fit. I will let you know how it looks and sounds when I get the car back. Probably towards the end of January. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihckb2 Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 I have just purchased a muffler from Car Builders Solutions out of England. They carry 3 sizes all in polished stainless and they are rebuildable which to me is the biggest advantage. They are possibly a little to heavy for those that are looking for racing. I will be putting mine on in the next month or so and will give details then. I bout the 7 inch 2.25 dia. in and out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelD Posted February 20, 2011 Author Share Posted February 20, 2011 Here are some photos of the finished roll cage. Built by Piper Motorsports in Sterling VA. http://www.pipermotorsport.com/ Phone: (703) 996-0353 I must say Mitch is a true craftsman. You can tell when you see this up close “The devil is in the details” as they say. 16 bolts keep in place or allow you to remove it when needed. We also decided to replace my old Caterham muffler. After researching several brands and narrowing it down to a Burns and a Hushpower, I thought I would try the $100 HushPower first. It sounds great and after a 30 minute spirited drive, I could still touch it without a burnt hand. However even with the new muffler, the car still smells of unburned fuel. I hope the dyno work can clear that up. We hope to put it on a chassis dyno in early March to smooth it out a bit. The motor seems to cut out between 3900 and 4200 rpm. It doesn’t seem to be a fuel pick up issue as I have a full tank and it occurs in the same rpm range on straights and corners. Could it be dirty plugs? I pulled the plugs 3&4 are black velvet while I&2 seem to have only a little black velvet. Will try new plugs tomorrow. Anyone tried the gas additives that say they clean injectors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off Road SHO Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 In regards to two of the plugs not matching the other two: Does your engine have sequential fuel injection or Batch fuel injection? One of the injector drivers might be gaining or losing resistance. Or if your ignition is wasted spark, your sparkplugs might not be the platinum-platinum type that some wasted spark systems require. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pksurveyor Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 My zetec was cutting out at 4,000 rpm especially the car was pushed hard in hot weather. The culprit tumed out to be A/F was too lean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelD Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share Posted February 21, 2011 (edited) My car runs way to rich. Edited February 21, 2011 by MichaelD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelD Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share Posted February 21, 2011 (edited) My car is way to rich. I guess that could cause similar results. Especially if it coats the plugs. Edited February 21, 2011 by MichaelD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlumba81 Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 ihckb2-how did that muffler turn out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelD Posted July 7, 2011 Author Share Posted July 7, 2011 Thus far it has a relatively loud rich sound. Some of the loud may be from a hole in the 4 into 1. It being welded where one of the pipes separated from the base plate and a new gasket will arrive tomorrow. Saturday I will get the car ready for Watkins Glen and know how it sounds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klasik-69 Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 Thus far it has a relatively loud rich sound. Some of the loud may be from a hole in the 4 into 1. It being welded where one of the pipes separated from the base plate and a new gasket will arrive tomorrow. Saturday I will get the car ready for Watkins Glen and know how it sounds. I never saw how your old exhaust was and since we both have similar powerplants, I was wondering if your prior exhaust ran with the tail pipe out the back prior to you installing this one. Also, it doesn't look like you have any kind of catalytic converter on this, strictly a muffler. Mine has what I think is a catalytic converter/muffler and has the front oxygen sensor but none at the back. I'm asking about this because my tail pipe is dangerously close to the sidewall of the tire where it turns in to go to the back, and gets even closer with the Hoosier race tires. I was thinking of having the exhaust modified at a muffler shop but it looks like you avoid any of these issues with the muffler exiting in front of the rear wheel. I'd appreciate any input you may have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmaxcliff Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 (edited) I am hoping that the Gibson muffler, link below, will be "quiet" and non-restrictive on my 2.3 Duratec. The baffles are rattling inside my current muffler and it is a bit loud. http://www.gibsonexhaust.com/dci.html The link did not hold the part number....enter part number 788700s Edited July 7, 2011 by cmaxcliff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlumba81 Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 (edited) Also interested in what other caterham owners w zetecs and rear exit exhaust did when going to wider rear tires. I just check the clearance is 1/4" and there's a shiny spot on the exhaust so it rubs a bit. I suppose I can cut it short and weld on a turndown. Or recycle the cut piece and cobble up something. Well forget about welding the exhaust I forgot its stainless steel and my mig isn't set up for gas. I might buy a 45deg piece of tubing and have my local muffler shop expand it out and use a clamp. Or have them weld it if they do SS. Edited July 8, 2011 by jlumba81 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmaxcliff Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 Why not remove the muffler/tailpipe, place a "mandrel"(roll bar tubing?) in a vise, slide the tailpipe over the mandrel, and gently tweak the tailpipe angle tighter to miss the tire? It sounds like you don't need much of a move. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klasik-69 Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 Why not remove the muffler/tailpipe, place a "mandrel"(roll bar tubing?) in a vise, slide the tailpipe over the mandrel, and gently tweak the tailpipe angle tighter to miss the tire? It sounds like you don't need much of a move. Yes, I looked at doing that as well. However, the way the muffler bracket and tail pipe support bracket are attached, its doubtful any "tweeking" would allow them to still line up. In other words, you fix one thing and screw up another. I also thought of the old tried and proven technology, take a ball pein hammer and reshape the area of concern on the tail pipe. In the old days when intakes and exhausts weren't "tuned" and we didn't have EFI and ECU's, the ball pein hammer never got too far away........in fact, it was one of my favorite tools...........realign hoods, fix sticky starters, etc. My main concern is not rubbing on the pipe as it is the transfer of heat onto the sidewall of the tire and possibly creating separation on a race tire as we wait idling in the false grid at the track. My clearance is also about 3/16" to 1/4", depending on which wheel/tire I mount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelD Posted July 8, 2011 Author Share Posted July 8, 2011 Klasik-69 I was given a lifetime exemption from Maryland emission regs due to the lack of clearence to access the equipment at the testing stations. That said I switched to a side exit because or the exhause smell rolling back in from the rear exit. In making the move I removed the cat and everything associated with it. Quicksilver Racengines in Frederick, Maryland upgraded the motor with TWM TBs, cams pistons etc to reach 220 HP. I am leaving tomorrow for Watkins Glen. They have a 99DB sound limit. Maybe I will learn how loud or quiet the Hushpower is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlumba81 Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 I just finished undoing the slip joints and moving the exhaust a bit. Now I have 1/2" clearance. Also noticed that the rear exhaust hanger rubber is cracked and that's probably why the exhaust moved. Croc gave me a spare so I'll probably change it out tomorrow. Took a closer look at the welds before and after the first o2 sensor and both have a crack going thru them. That's another thing to add to my winter to do list. I think I'll look around for a turndown since I want to go from 205 to 225 wide tires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rnr Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 I am leaving tomorrow for Watkins Glen. They have a 99DB sound limit. Maybe I will learn how loud or quiet the Hushpower is. Best of luck - I got dinged at 93.9 at Laguna Seca (92 dB limit) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlumba81 Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 I had to replace my rear exhaust hanger and didn't realize the bolt threads on the new one were different. Did a quick run to home depot wo the rear pipe on and was suprised how much louder it was. So I think I might just end up keeping the rear exit and see if I can get it bent for clearance when I have the exhaust off for rewelding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihckb2 Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 Sorry but I have not installed yet. I will have to do some modifications to my pipes in order to line up the way I want it to. Probably will build a complete new set of headers come winter. The unit looks very well made and as mentioned before can be re-stuffed so makes it very practical as far as costs go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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