Help needed for fuel tank removal

[MNlotus]

i noticed this winter that my fuel pump gasket was leaking. now i have the new gasket and want to get this done so i can get back to driving. i already removed the carpet, rollbar, trunk floor piece, and the top black bar that was held in by the two long bolts. the gas tank is already loose and ready to be removed but it is being held in by one hose on the top, and all the hoses/lines connected to the fuel pump. do i have to remove the hose that is on the top of the tank, if so how do i go about doing this hose off? do i cut this clamp off? (second pic)

And do i need to take off both of these hoses/lines on the fuel pump to replace the gasket? ( third and fourth pic)

i just dont wanna take off things that i dont need to.

thanks

Dan

 

...i was also surprised to find out my car was partially made from wood

[jlumba81]

The hose looks like it has a crimped on band hose clamp. You can just get a screwdriver in there and spread apart the crimp til its loose and the hose should come off. If you have a crimp tool you can recrimp it or just replace it w a screw on hose clamp that you can find in any autoparts store. Other than that hopefully a 7 owner can give advice on the other questions.

[Birkin42]

I would assume you could leave the hose connected and just undo the screws holding the flange plate on, and remove the whole pump assembly as 1 piece. You are going to have to break this joint anyway since I believe this is where the gasket is you want to replace.

If you want to remove the hose, leave the crimp in tact and undo the bolt through the banjo connection. When you go to reassemble it, you should replace the crush washers as they are 1 times use.

[bsimon]

1) remove roll over bar. Tank comes out through the top

 

2) undo jubilee clamp and pull off return hose, front of tank.

 

3) pull faston off tank level sender on top of tank

 

4) undo banjo bolt, side of tank. let fuel line dangle.

 

5) find bullet connector for fuel pump electrical feed and disconnect. It's usually close to centre of car where it goes up the prop tunnel. leave wire dangling from tank.

 

6) undo the filler pipe and vent pipe from tank top.

 

7) undo bolts through angle iron holding tank into chassis.

 

8) remove the filler neck and fuel door. ( I've gotten tank out without, but it's much easier this way)

 

9) tape some foam packing to insides of boot skin to protect it from dimpling if you bump it with the tank corners.

 

9A) I can't recall exactly, but I think you need to drill the 4 rivets out of each end of the alloy hat-section that holds up the boot floor and remove it as well.

 

10) weasel the tank up and out through top of boot .

 

11) change the fuel filter while tank is out.

 

Don't over tighten the flanges when replacing the gaskets. They can distort rather easily.

 

Paint the plywood boot floor sections with some type of boat finish while they're out. They have a tendency to delaminate from road juice that collects when driving in wet conditions.

 

Good luck!

[Taber10]

MNLotus,

I can't help but add my two cents, since I replaced this gasket three times on my 2007 when it was just over a year old. I recommend a homemade gasket cut out of a suitable (fuel resistant) material, using smaller holes than the "factory" gasket. Also, I recommend a sealant called "Marine 5200" liberally applied. After my third attempt, using these two steps, the seal has held for two years, including LOG 29 and LOG30.

 

As mentioned, yes, replace the "crush" washers on the Banjo bolt. The tank (on an SV) will come out through the bottom, but with everything--hoses and elect--disconnected. I had to undo some wire ties on the fuel pump wiring to get "room" to work, but they are easily replaced.

 

Good luck.

 

Taber

[MNlotus]

thanks for the responses! i got the tank out and the pump too. i bought two kinds of gasket sealant for the pump. i have a non hardening sealer and a hardening sealer, which would be best for the fuel pump gasket?

[bsimon]

I used petrol-proof Hylomar Blue on the sender gasket. The Pump gasket is Buna-N and should not need any additional glorp to seal properly. (at least in my experience.)

[MNlotus]

i just wanted to thank everyone for the responses and help!

just finished up the car today, filled up the tank and no leaks! lets hope it holds, i just put a light layer of some non hardening sealer around the gasket.

i just have to re-glue the carpet in the trunk and im finished, thanks again!

[solder_guy]

Just want to say .. that JB Weld will seal a leak if ever necessary. I used it to seal a leak in my alum fuel cell and it is a permanent fix.

 

Rob

[Arya Ebrahimi]

  solder_guy said:

Just want to say .. that JB Weld will seal a leak if ever necessary. I used it to seal a leak in my alum fuel cell and it is a permanent fix.

 

Rob

 

Yes, IF IF IF the area is clean! If there is any gas residue, the JB Weld will not bond with the surrounding area.

 

Ask me how I know :rant: