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About bsimon

  • Rank
    Paid Club Member

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  • Location
    Rural Wyoming
  • Interests
    shotgun sports, cars
  • Occupation
    pigeon dealer
  1. Two schools on the crank bolt. Original is a one-time use stretch bolt. (available from the usual Vaux, Holden, Opel, Daihatsu sources) SBD and other builders use a grade 12.9 socket head cap screw. Getting the bolt out with the engine in the chassis is quite difficult. I can't recall the exact torque, but it's enough to turn the car over or rip out the motor mounts. I couldn't budge mine with an impact wrench. I built a torque bar that bolts to the damper and rests on the floor. Good luck!
  2. They use the check valve as what I would consider a MacGyvered residual pressure valve. The spring is relied upon to keep the valve closed against gravitational pressure. When the engine starts the higher operating pressure opens the valve fully (or so you hope). You can see why I'm not a big fan.
  3. I've heard of people installing check valves to stop the back flow. I'm not a big fan of check valves. Personally, I feel the oil supply to the pump should be as unrestricted as possible. Extra parts create extra problems. The use of check valves in dry sump systems will also create great debate in auto forums...YMMV
  4. Cars with dry sumps always mark their spot on the garage floor. They are not asserting some kind of dominant behavior or anything, it's purely by design. The oil in the system wants to find it's gravitational level. Oil in the tank migrates through the gears in the pressure section of the pump and finds it's way into the crankcase sump. Since the sump is so shallow, the oil level eventually submerges much of the crank seals. Oil will piss out on the floor over time since crank seals are not designed to be submerged. Any plumbing that is below the level of the oil in the tank constit
  5. Drew, I see hints of a Kent block engine in your car. If so, check out this thread on starter/ring gear issues. http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/showthread.php?45048-Kent-Flywheel-ring-gear-starter-headache
  6. Welcome to USA7s! There are very few HPC (VX) owners here, but we watch each others back when it comes to tech issues. This thread may help with the oil filter questions. http://www.usa7s.net/vb/showthread.php?5764-Vauxhall-C20XE-Oil-filter Take special note with regards to the actual thread of the filter spigot on your particular car.
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  8. For only $19.95 over base price, Caterham will switch the wiring between the dashboard high beam and directional idicator pilot lights. The new model is called the K-mart Special...for the US market only...
  9. Very nice, and it really doesn't look out of place on a Se7en. If the windscreen frame was to pivot at the lowest stanchion hole, the entire assembly could swing back into the cockpit to allow removing a standard bonnet. ETA...fitting a roof may present some challenges.
  10. Daniel, To run a full vacuum you need to oversize the scavenge pump sections. Most DS kits do not have enough pump to pull serious vacuum so the cambox cover is usually vented to the top of the tank with a large (AN10-12) line. To take full advantage of vacuum in the crankcase, one needs to review what oil control rings are fitted to the pistons as well. I believe in water cooling the high pressure side of the system. The cooler can be smaller (and lighter) for the application. YMMV How is build coming along? Engine in chassis yet? When will we be hearing the pitter-patter
  11. The dye I saw was on Jegs, summit, or some such hot rod site. I can't seem to find it again. I may have seen UV dye used for tracing leaks and thought it was something else. UV might work, but turning off the lights and using a black light adds a lot of labor to the task. Looks like the color change trick is no longer valid. I guess I'll have to flush by volume from here on out.
  12. FIAT updated: "Fix It Again, Takehiko"
  13. Unintended paint solvent blow? The gauge and hand pump would be a nice addition. I've seen a nice bleed system made from a small garden sprayer on instructables or some such website.
  14. Gunson's Ez-Bleed for me. A little awkward in that you need a sacrificial spare tyre to power the rig, but effective nonetheless. I found the key to good fluid changes is changing colors. I regularly switched between ATE Super Blue and ATE 200 (same stuff, just two different colours). ATE can no longer sell blue fluid in the U.S. since it was discovered by DOT to be ... blue. (It took them 20 years to discover this.) All brake fluid in the U.S. Must be Amber or clear. There are dyes available now for "off road use" that can be had to colour the fluid of your choice.
  15. You found the employee parking lot at Great Clips...:leaving:
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