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Dyno sheet smackdown!


Kitcat

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Here it is at max 1.05 to 1.1 bar with a hybrid :) gt2860 top paragraph.

Low one is at 0.45 bar .

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o217/tigraturbo/DYNO.jpg

 

Am I reading this correctly, 391 crank horspower ? Good God, is that a time bomb ? If all this is correct, I'm drooling with envy, maybe even lust.

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The good thing is that at the lowest boost setting(external spring wastgate)it has the

270+ wich is at the mark of the powerfull duratec,dont tring to compare NA with forced induction,but as u see from the graph is really pleasefull.at 400 mark is lethal..one day tried 1.5 bar(450+) and was scary!

 

I think turbo,and CR worked out really good,so even a gt28 serries can be more than enough,planning a gtx28 in the future just to stay in about where i am now+ little more.

 

AVCR does a great job as its gear based so set up is 1st and 2nd at lowest setting (0.45 bar) 3rd (0.75 bar) and (1.1 bar) at 4th and 5th otherwise is a no no.

Edited by westy turbo
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In my 40 + years of observations Small shop dynos are sold as 'profit centres' inaccuacy/inconsistency is expected.

Don't put much credence in dyno sheets.

 

You really wanna Turbo? I just tripped over an interesting factoid (presumably it's accurate ?) A Saab 2.3 engine (94 to 98 Only!) is a whopping 20 lbs Heavier than an S2000 engine. Odd as it's Block is cast Steel (neither Iron Nor Ali with liners) Clever Swedes .

 

The ECU setup on a Saab is absolute Genuis.. true.

They have No Air mass meter, the ECU uses the Sparkplugs as Sensors, analysing after EACH spark event on each plug and adjusting for timing and fuel delivery and boost on each cylinder ..constantly.

Swede overkill basically but V effective.

 

.

 

Ok, what business isn't a profit center ? Should business be run as a non-profit ? I just don't get your point. Obviously you don't like dynos or don't like guys who run the dynos. The alternative is a butt dyno or doing tests on a track, pulling in, adjusting the ECU, going back out, etc.

 

I think dynos are for comparison purposes and you can do whatever you want with the numbers, they're only numbers and won't make you faster or slower unless they're truly representative of the output. Most newer dynos are designed in accordance with the latest SAE technical guidelines and adjust for temperature, barometric pressure, relative humidity and other parameters that may effect the run. I use a reputable shop with a quality dyno and I trust it's been calibrated correctly. If not, and I'm using it to improve what I have, it will show the relative gain or loss.

 

I never heard a spark plug was a sensor. How do the Saab people read a spark plug from the ECU or anywhere else ? I'm not saying it can't be done but for the life of me I can't think of how you'd do it.

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