Klasik-69 Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 I have a T9 5 speed (maybe they're all 5 speeds ?) that has no drain plug. I've done some searches and seen where others have run into the problem of changing the oil. I'd like to drill a hole in the bottom left side where there is a bit of a flat spot in the casting and put in a 3/8 NPT drain plug. Anyone out there try this ? Yes, I know I can suck out the oil from the top or remove the driveshaft and lift the front of the car until it all runs out the tailshaft housing. I really don't understand why this tranny doesn't have a drain plug. Hopefully someone has done what I'd like to do and can warn me of some of the pitfalls, like a gear being right behind the flad spot I'm thinking of drilling. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bsimon Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 If you're looking at the round flat boss that sticks from the bottom of the case, there's a large doughnut shaped ceramic magnet setting in the bottom of the gearbox exactly in that location. It's held down with magnetic force, but there's also a couple of overhanging lugs cast into the case. If you luck out and hit the middle of the doughnut, I suppose it'll be OK. If the drill jams the doughnut, I'll lay odds it'll crack in two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klasik-69 Posted June 23, 2011 Author Share Posted June 23, 2011 That is why I asked about doing this. The problem with drilling a blind hole is you never know what's on the other side. I can't help wonder why Ford overlooked having a drain plug. I don't know of any tranny that has lifetime lube benefits. I went down to West Marine and bought an oil extractor for $49 and managed to suck out the oil from the top in about 2 minutes. Also, my top plate plug (1/4 NPT) is fitted with a dip stick............must be made by someone other than Ford. Does anyone know how much lube the T9 holds ? Looks like I pulled just a bit over one quart but I'm not sure how the level was before since it didn't show on the dip stick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bsimon Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 Fill to the bottom of the filler plug in the side of the gearbox case. The volume is different between the various versions of this gearbox. Ford drills the filler plug hole at the appropriate height to compensate accordingly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelD Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 See T-9 info and photos here: http://www.topdocsracing.com/pdf-links Post 87 cases fill to the bottim of the fill hole. Pre 87 cases filled to the bottom of the fill hole will be over filled hence the need for the dip stick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bsimon Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 Pre-87 'boxes with the loose countershaft needle bearings running on full length shaft = 1.9ltr. (in reality, about 1.5 ltr. works, with less potential for seepage. There's a Ford service bulletin with the exact amount floating around the internet somewhere.) Post-87 gearboxes with caged countershaft needle bearings running on the stubby shaft = 1.2 ltr. Ford altered the design of the internal features in the later redesigned 'boxes for less oil drag and stiffer countershaft assembly. (and less seepage). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klasik-69 Posted June 27, 2011 Author Share Posted June 27, 2011 Mine is a 2004 R300 but not sure if they use a late model gear box or just any T9 they have in stock. However, filling it to the bottom of the fill hole is likely close to the 1.2 L amount. I kept adding oil until it ran out the hole. Getting that plug in and out is not exactly a walk in the park. I made a special wrench by cutting a piece of a 10 mm allen wrench and welding it to a piece of flat bar. The plug is also right where one of the frame bars runs in the tunnel or I'd have cut a plug access hole in the footwell. I've never had a gearbox that held so little oil. I bought 8 quarts of the Redline MTL 70-80W................. now about 6 1/2 quarts left over. I thought it might hold 3 or 4 quarts........wrong ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boss351 Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 Looks like a drain plug to me on my T9 (2010 RS170). Excuse the mess of engine oil blown back there.. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk27/adamgx50/Caterham/drainplugMedium.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klasik-69 Posted July 5, 2011 Author Share Posted July 5, 2011 Looks like a drain plug to me on my T9 (2010 RS170). Excuse the mess of engine oil blown back there.. http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk27/adamgx50/Caterham/drainplugMedium.jpg Thanks for the photo. That is a great way of showing me where I can drill the hole. For the life of me I can't understand how anything that holds a liquid can be without a drain plug. If I had been installing the engine/tranny in the car, I would have made sure everything had a bottom drain. On removing the side sight plug, the factory book talks of taking a 10 mm allen wrench and cutting off on the short side a piece of it to accomodate the limited access on the plug. I tried that and didn't feel secure about puting force on the plug to remove it. Instead, I took a piece of 1/4" x 1" flat bar about 7" long and drilled a 0.430" hole in the end then slipped a short piece of 10 mm allen wrench into the hole after a little bit of grinding. I then welded the back end so it would be flush on the back side and have about 12 mm of allen protruding. It works like a charm and feels very secure. Getting two of my fat fingers up there to re-install the plug is another story. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boss351 Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 I fumbled about with a cut-off 10mm allen this weekend, grinding it down to about 15mm length and I couldn't wiggle it in. Almost feels like the plug isn't 10mm, I'll be back at it again with a set of stubby allens on Thursday, but I agree, making a small tool as you described is the way to go. Someone should make/supply them (hint hint)! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bsimon Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 A rubber automotive body plug in just the right spot on the tunnel works well. A hole saw is your friend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klasik-69 Posted July 6, 2011 Author Share Posted July 6, 2011 A rubber automotive body plug in just the right spot on the tunnel works well. A hole saw is your friend. Yes, I agree. However, I checked and saw that cross brace runs right smack in the middle of the plug and I didn't feel comfortable cutting the frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klasik-69 Posted July 6, 2011 Author Share Posted July 6, 2011 I fumbled about with a cut-off 10mm allen this weekend, grinding it down to about 15mm length and I couldn't wiggle it in. Almost feels like the plug isn't 10mm, I'll be back at it again with a set of stubby allens on Thursday, but I agree, making a small tool as you described is the way to go. Someone should make/supply them (hint hint)! If you can't get it done, let me know and I'll make you one and send it to you. I agree with you, trying to fit a cut-off 10 mm wrench in the plug makes you think it must be a different size. The flat bar tool went right in with no slop or hesitation. I TIG welded mine in because I have the machines in my shop but you could do the same thing by brazing it with a torch. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boss351 Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 If you can't get it done, let me know and I'll make you one and send it to you. I agree with you, trying to fit a cut-off 10 mm wrench in the plug makes you think it must be a different size. The flat bar tool went right in with no slop or hesitation. I TIG welded mine in because I have the machines in my shop but you could do the same thing by brazing it with a torch. Mike Thanks, that kind of confirms to me what I thought about it not going in and that a straight piece would. I'll try fabbing a tool up (if I can get JB weld to take the place of really welding). If not I may be hitting you up on your offer. Cheers, Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klasik-69 Posted July 7, 2011 Author Share Posted July 7, 2011 Thanks, that kind of confirms to me what I thought about it not going in and that a straight piece would. I'll try fabbing a tool up (if I can get JB weld to take the place of really welding). If not I may be hitting you up on your offer. Cheers, Adam One other thing you can try. Cut off a piece of 10 mm allen wrench to be about 5/8" to 3/4". Using a 10 mm ratcheting box end wrench, insert the cut off allen into it and while using a long flat screwdriver blade to backup the allen, run it up into the plug. Once in, you should be able to loosen the plug. However, I think this approach can be frustrating and may lead to heavy drinking :party:. Let me know if I can help. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlumba81 Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 I ended up using the open end of a wrench since its straight and taped the allen in place w some duct tape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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