Jump to content

Turn Signal Switches


solder_guy

Recommended Posts

I recommend staying away from AC switch. They will not hold up to DC. AC has an equal amount of off to on, and time to cool in the off cycle. They also reverse polarity each cycle also helping stay cool. A DC switch is made to take the load (heat) continuous. An AC switch in a DC installation may burn and stick contacts on or just get hot, warp and not work. Worse case they can short, catch fire. Automotive and Aircraft parts places should have DC switch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I installed an ISIS in a customer car. It works good but took forever to install close to 100 hours. There are several self canceling turn signal systems out there. I used this before and it works great. Very reasonable price and easy to install. http://www.signaldynamics.com/self-canceling-turn-signal-module/

 

This is my plan ($70 module, not ISIS). I just need the seats and steering wheel in so I can decide how I am going to apply the switching.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I recommend staying away from AC switch. They will not hold up to DC. AC has an equal amount of off to on, and time to cool in the off cycle. They also reverse polarity each cycle also helping stay cool. A DC switch is made to take the load (heat) continuous. An AC switch in a DC installation may burn and stick contacts on or just get hot, warp and not work. Worse case they can short, catch fire. Automotive and Aircraft parts places should have DC switch.

 

Switches are made the same :) Some just list one or the other rating, some list both. The same switch will work with AC or DC, it's just a matter of what values they are good for. Its the latching/unlatching that usually kills a switch, not the current through it when its latched (assuming your not exceeding the ratings).

 

Naturally there are a zillion types of switches, contact materials, etc etc. that are better suited for certain AC or DC applications, how strong they are to break, how fast they contact, what the contacts are coated with and so on.

 

You can find some basic conversion rules on the net (convert the AC rating of a switch to DC rating and vise versa).

 

Anyway, there is a ton of reading you can do on that.

 

For what I will be doing there will be next to no current through the switch. Anything would work. Touching two strands of copper together would suffice :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I am also using a Signal Dynamics module. But I am using the Pentastar model. It has a brake input. This way when you turn on the blinker, it never starts timing out until you let off the brake. Also if you hit the brake again during the 10 second time out after that, it will reset the timer and continue blinking. Basically it stays flashing until you let of the brake for 10 seconds. This will make it more user friendly at stop lights/signs.

 

It also has the other functions of press and hold for different times of blinking. So you can hit it when you want to make a lane change and it will shut off on its own etc. Hitting the switch again automatically cancels the blinking also.

 

I am using a momentary switch and two diodes attached to the blinker inputs to initiate and cancel the hazard lights. The diodes have to be used to isolate the two inputs from each other so the hazard switch can send a 12v input to both lines.

 

I am going to use a momentary (on)-off-(on) toggle and a lengthening shaft, or buy a momentary joystick or something for the blinker switch. I have not decided for sure. I want to get the wheel on first. I want it to be in about the same location as a regular car so it can be hit without taking hands off the wheel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

I know this is an old thread, but I would like to install the SDS module in my Caterham and in my friends Caterham.

 

I am trying to get my head around the install diagram. I have a power wire that comes into my turn signal toggle. Then the one wire each for both left and right signals.

 

So do I just splice the SDS unit in between those wires?

 

A little more info on how you guys did it would be helpful

 

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know this is an old thread, but I would like to install the SDS module in my Caterham and in my friends Caterham.

 

I am trying to get my head around the install diagram. I have a power wire that comes into my turn signal toggle. Then the one wire each for both left and right signals.

 

So do I just splice the SDS unit in between those wires?

 

A little more info on how you guys did it would be helpful

 

Thanks.

 

Is your turn signal toggle momentary? Also, if you have not purchased it already, I recommend getting the one with the brake input. This way it stays flashing as long as you hold the brake and even If you let off and then reapply the brakes before the timer times out, it is supposed to hold it on again until you let off and then restart the countdown. Should be much more convenient than hitting the button every time the timer goes off if your in a long traffic line, or a long light.

Wiring diagram attached.

I got the 1007 Signal Dynamics Penta-Star Turn Signal Control Module

01007 Penta Star.pdf

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...