WTB dry sump parts

[Paul Hill]

Looking at going the dry sump route with my Black Top Zetec rather than go to a cast wet sump pan.

My thought was to ditch the oem oil pump, add scavenge lines to the sloped oem steel pan, add a belt driven dry sump pump and tank. Our Cat previously had a dry sump, the tank bracket is still in place on the frame.

 

Any thoughts on this notion? Pros/cons?

 

Am looking for a tank and pump here.......

Edited December 29, 2011 by Paul Hill
added details

[1turbofocus]

What are your RPM goals , I have built and raced hundreds of the Zetec Engines and unless your going past 7400 a dry sump really isnt needed , C-F-M has some billet oil pump gears that help a little

 

There are a lot of good drysumps out there as kits for the Zetec

 

Tom

[Paul Hill]

Tom

 

RPM is not the relevant criteria in this equation.

As you well know the Focus Zetec is mounted transversely in the original car. Fitting it to a Seven style vehicle, or my Europa project, changes the engine orientation to longitudinal. My understanding is that the oem Focus Zetec sump and baffling are totally wrong for a fore/aft layout, will sooner or later cause the motor to starve for oil pressure. The normal solution is to buy a new cast sump from Raceline in the UK or someone similar.

 

Call me cheap but I thought that perhaps adding scavenge lines to the stock pan, adding a multistage pump and dry sump tank might be a more cost effective alternative... assuming the correct parts could be found used. Previous experience tells me they are laying around somewhere unused, in someone's garage... I just need to find them!

[Boxologist]

Does that Zetec have the ford oil pan or a Raceline wetsump?

[Paul Hill]

Presently the motor is totally stock... oem cast aluminum block extension with the stock shallow steel pan.

 

In the Seven application the bottom of the pan is sloped to one side, a holdover from when the motor had a forward tilt in the transverse Focus location.

 

I'm away for a few days but could post a pic when I get home if that would be of any value.

[Birkin42]

Paul, IMO, you are going to have a hard time coming up with all the hardware required, all reasonable working condition, and have it cost less.

I would think that if you want to save some $'s, it would be cheaper and easier to modify the steel oil pan to suit the north/south installation, but just my opinion.

I would only consider going to dry sump if you after the traditional virtues of dry sump like better lubrication in all extreme conditions, lower CoG or more ground clearance, and a bit more hp.

I am dry sumping my S2K in a Birkin to get the engine to fit under the hood with a barely acceptable amount of ground clearance, at least I hope just enough ground clearance. Not cheap, and a lot of extra hardware required.

[Paul Hill]

Thanks for your thoughts.

To be perfectly honestI am inclined to agree with you but thought it worth a shot here 1st. Has surprised me what parts I have been able to come up with!

 

I am not close to the reassembly stage still, way too many other projects in the fire to be able to steal shop space. I'm not sure how much space is available til we get the motor more or less in place: I have Caterham Zetec motor mounts to try, the car originally had a crossflow or TC motor, now long gone. Stll will need to sort out the T-9 to Zetec bellhousing/clutch blues before I can think of dropping the drivetrain in.

 

One project at a time.....

[RossD]

I have been looking for a DIY solution for a dry sump for the zetec. I havent figured out the specifics yet but I do have general plan. Leave the zetec pump to provide oil pressure to the block, but pipe a new pick up to a bulkhead fitting in the aluminum oil pan. The steel pan will be even with the alum portion. For scavenging, I found that the duratec has a chain driven oil pump and could probably mounted and run off the front of the engine. This mostly just back of the napkin thinking right now... Armstrong dry sumps have a nice kit