Zetec reconfiguration help

[Jackal]

I got out in the garage today to deal with a bunch of little things I've needed to do. I'm looking for some help on the Zetec I'm using. Some are simple questions I just need a little reaffirming with what I already know, and others show my inexperience with building/reconfiguring motors. I have not built a motor before, only done bolt ons to a built motor. I intend on doing as much work on the motor as I can before handing it to a shop for an inspection of my work, and the first turn over.

 

Firstly, it seems that the hole for the dip stick is plugged with a metal plug. I will have to drill or press this out from the bottom, after removing the oil pan. Is this normal for crate motors? What is the proper course of action here? I'm guessing I'll have to remove the pan either way to ensure I get all the metal out.

 

I've included a shot of the hole for the dip tube, and it also leads to my next question.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_8737.jpg

 

There is a large hole on the side of the motor in that last shot, (taped up now of course) and before that hole was opened, there was a black tank mounted there. Oh look, there it is.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_8726.jpg

 

I have a couple questions about what this tank is there for, where the hole at the top of the tank is supposed to get terminated to. Do I need this tank, or should I go looking for a plug for it? The tank has a two stage entry point on the inlet to the tank, and the crank is right behind the hole on the block.

 

Lastly (for now) Is the extra line I have running off the back of the water pump up to where the thermostat is. I am guessing this is for the reservoir tank for coolant. Am I right in this guess? If not, I'll need some help figuring that out as well.

[Jackal]

I may as well follow up that post with a couple other silly questions. I wanted some confirmation that this hole to the flywheel is for the crank position sensor.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_8728-1.jpg

 

and this hole shouldn't be here right?

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/bb124359.jpg

[pi7ot]

It sounds like you'll have to punch out the plug in the oil dipstick hole. Be careful not to eliminate the shelf in the hole that calibrates the penetration of the dipstick tube. On the ZX1, the end of the dipstick tube is splined.

 

The large hole is for a air/oil separator, which allows air out of the crankcase into a feed for re-ingestion connected to the factory intake manifold and other emissions equipment.

Typically the hose from the CCV is routed to a catch can instead of the intake manifold because the oil vapor and any extra oxygen re-ingested tend to lean out the intake charge.

There is a one way valve between the separator and the hose. There is a lot of debate as to whether the valve should be deleted.

Raceline in the UK who build/sell a lot of Zetecs usually just cover the hole with a plate....Big debate in the UK regarding this mod also.

 

If you are using an engine management system that uses a trigger wheel/sensor combo running off the crank pulley, by all means cover the CPS port so that stones don't have access.

 

On the intake side, a piece of sheet aluminium can be cut and used as a stone block.

 

I'll leave the query about the water hose to a ZX3 owner. Mine is a ZX1 and is routed differently.

 

m

[Off Road SHO]

I think the above poster wanted to say, "If you are NOT using a CPS, block off that hole where the CPS normally rests.

 

That irregular gap on the other side is due to a missing bell housing shield that usually is bolted in between the block and bell housing.

 

Tom

[BirkinBernie]

Duane,

 

If you are planning to use the stock crank position sensor, you have a problem. You have correctly identified the hole, but I can see that the bracket that supports the sensor is not in place. The bad news is that the bracket has to be installed before the flywheel is bolted on. Find the bracket and check it out. I suppose there may be a different version of the bracket that I haven't seen but I know a couple of other builders who have faced this same issue.....

 

Bernie

[Jackal]

Thanks everyone for the help.

 

It sounds like you'll have to punch out the plug in the oil dipstick hole. Be careful not to eliminate the shelf in the hole that calibrates the penetration of the dipstick tube. On the ZX1, the end of the dipstick tube is splined.

 

The large hole is for a air/oil separator, which allows air out of the crankcase into a feed for re-ingestion connected to the factory intake manifold and other emissions equipment.

Typically the hose from the CCV is routed to a catch can instead of the intake manifold because the oil vapor and any extra oxygen re-ingested tend to lean out the intake charge.

There is a one way valve between the separator and the hose. There is a lot of debate as to whether the valve should be deleted.

Raceline in the UK who build/sell a lot of Zetecs usually just cover the hole with a plate....Big debate in the UK regarding this mod also.

 

If you are using an engine management system that uses a trigger wheel/sensor combo running off the crank pulley, by all means cover the CPS port so that stones don't have access.

 

On the intake side, a piece of sheet aluminium can be cut and used as a stone block.

 

I'll leave the query about the water hose to a ZX3 owner. Mine is a ZX1 and is routed differently.

 

m

 

Thanks for the help.

 

 

Dipstck

 

I will drop the pan and punch the plug out from the bottom. I hope it's a semi straight shot to it from the bottlom, and I'll use some dowel to push it out. I think this is the safest way to do it.

 

 

Oil/Air separator

 

As for the Oil/Air separator, I'm not sure if I want to block it off. I' like the idea for simplicity, but don't want to cause harm to the motor. I notice that most Zetecs I have seen pictures of delete the CCV and block it. What are the two sides of the debate here?

 

 

CPS

 

I am double checking with my tuning shop for options here. I am using the Haltech P1000 for an ECU, and admittedly don't know much about setting up the sensors for it. Anybody use a different sensor setup with the P1000?

 

Water bypass

 

Still looking for solutions here, but a quick look yesterday tells me that this is the only spot for the reservoir in my system. There is a bung at the top of my radiator, but I'm pretty sure that's for the fan sensor. The other two temp sensors are at the thermostat, and besides the vacuum line at the top of the thermostat, there are no other ports in the cooling circuit.

Duane,

If you are planning to use the stock crank position sensor, you have a problem. You have correctly identified the hole, but I can see that the bracket that supports the sensor is not in place. The bad news is that the bracket has to be installed before the flywheel is bolted on. Find the bracket and check it out. I suppose there may be a different version of the bracket that I haven't seen but I know a couple of other builders who have faced this same issue.....

Bernie

 

Thanks Bernie,

 

I noticed that when I was doing my initial search. As mentioned above, I will have to look into other solutions or pull the motor. That was unexpected, but It is what it is I guess. These other builders you mention, how did they come to a resolution?

 

Thanks.

 

Duane

[BCBirk]

RE: Thermostat bypass

 

This Westy site has a good tutorial on the zetec cooling system.

 

I plumbed my heater exit to the water pump and it helped stabilized the temp + reduce warm up time. I'd recommend a 180F T-stat if you're planning on tracking it.

 

-P

[Jackal]

I have not been presented with much of a solution for the CPS other than pulling the motor and putting in the right parts. I'll be ordering the bracket (if they still make it) and the CPS from a local Ford dealer.

 

I have never pulled a motor before, and I definitely don't have a hoist, but I figure if I put it out there some of the local folks might pitch in to help. I hope that it will only take one day to pull the motor, separate the trans and mount the bracket since the car is basically stripped anyway.

 

I finally took an etching of the number plate on the motor. I can't find the resource that will tell me exactly what vehicle the motor came from.

 

It's a VCT from 2000 Is what I'm thinking. I have two numbers on the flat plate by the starter one significantly clearer than the other. The more faint of the numbers gives me the first to letters YR. That means it's from a ZX2, 2001 Contour, or Cougar. Hopefully that will be enough to find the right CPS and bracket.

[Marine7]

Duane,

 

I have the part number for teh CPS at home and will send it when I return. You definately need the one for a standard car and not the Auto. I'll take a photo of the mount as well.

 

I swapped out my oil seperator for a billet one offered by Central Florida Motorsports. Its smaller and makes pulling the engine easier (the stock one fouls the drivers footwell). You'll definately need one either way. Blocking it off is a sure way to build excess crankcase pressure.

 

You'll need a shield for the intake side flywheel to keep stones out. Nothing fancy. Use cardboard to make a template and transfer to lightweight scrap sheetmetal.

 

If you're using the raceline pan, make sure you follow their instructions for marking the dipstick. The stock dipstick marks wont be valid for the low profile sump.

 

Good luck

 

Jason

[pi7ot]

The argument for/against the block of plate for the crank case ventilation system .

Some say it should be retained With/without the one-way valve off the separator in order to prevent the build up of air pressure in the crankcase.

If the pressure builds up, it prevents the oil from draining back to the sump. This is something I have experienced, so I'm in the "for" camp.

Raceline are a highly respected UK builder/supplier of Ford engines to the RWD Escort engine update market, and to se7en builders. They say that if the engine is correctly built, the Crankcase vent hole can be blocked off.

 

The last time I saw a debate, it was on the Westie site http://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/

 

m

[MHKflyer52]

I do not have a Zetec engine but have a BMC (MGB) engine which has a breather that is somewhat like what you have shown on the side of the block and I removed it when I first rebuilt my engine for a cleaner look and wound up putting it back on due to the pressure that built up in the engine which caused it to leak oil from the gaskets like their where none. I also replaced the valve cover with an aftermarket cover that did not have the vent in it and that also caused the same issue so I would keep the vent but that is just my belief.

[Jackal]

Well, one challenge seems to be correctable sooner, rather than later. My local Ford rep was able to tell me that the block is from a 2001 Focus, but has a VCT head on it. She was also able to find me the CPS bushing I need, and believe it or not, it's only a couple days out.

 

I am going to see if I can get an engine hoist for the weekend, and pull, separate, remove, install, reinstall, put back together and back in in one day on my first try.

 

Anyone in the area on Sunday is welcome to swing by to lend a hand.

[1turbofocus]

The CPS is 2 pieces one that bolts in from the inside and then the sensor that bolts in from the out side , you must be VERY carefull not to get a automatic inner CPS bracket or you will be pulling the trans again , you MUST use the inner bracket for the FlyWheel your using Focus Flywheel must use the Focus bracket , ZX2 flywheel must use the ZX2 bracket

 

The black cannister is so the bottom end of the engine can breath and MUST be left in place , if you want a cleaner looking one a Co. called C-F-M sells a small billet one that looks good and does the same job , I would NOT run the hose back to the intake but to the ground or a catch can

 

I will also have the VCT Elim for the SVT and ZX2 / Contour back in stock next week so you can install adj cam gears on both cams

 

Tom

Edited April 26, 2012 by 1turbofocus

[Jackal]

The CPS is 2 pieces one that bolts in from the inside and then the sensor that bolts in from the out side , you must be VERY carefull not to get a automatic inner CPS bracket or you will be pulling the trans again , you MUST use the inner bracket for the FlyWheel your using Focus Flywheel must use the Focus bracket , ZX2 flywheel must use the ZX2 bracket

 

 

Thanks for the help Tom. I have the part at the local Ford dealership now. I made sure several times that the bushing was for a manual. When getting the part, I checked the motor identification with Ford, and they say the block is for a 2001 Focus, so that is the bushing I got it for.

 

It is strange to me that the block is for a 2001 Focus, yet the head is clearly a VCT. I did not think that the Focus came with the VCT in 2001. Stupidly I forgot to get the number off the head last night for Ford to run that PN. I will grab that number tonight, and have Ford run the head SN and see what comes up.

 

I plan on checking the functionality of the sensor before puitting the motor back together. I noticed a resistance spike when I multimeter the pins on the sensor I have for the speedometer. (or was it a dip in resistance, I can't remember?) Ideally after putting on the bushing, and before torquing the flywheel, I hope to be able to see the same spike in resistance when I rotate the flywheel manually after installing the CPS.

 

My biggest concern now is keeping the clutch centered, or recentering it once I separate the motor from the trans. Do I need to worry about this if I am just separating the two? I don't have a centering pin that I see used on larger clutches, and will want to locate one before Sunday if I need one.

 

The black cannister is so the bottom end of the engine can breath and MUST be left in place , if you want a cleaner looking one a Co. called C-F-M sells a small billet one that looks good and does the same job , I would NOT run the hose back to the intake but to the ground or a catch can

 

Well it looks like I'll keep it then. I have seem it get run to a simple catch can made of a water bottle before.

 

When I bolt it back on, can I just jam a filter into the top port and be done with it then? Iguess if the catch can is needed, the filter top would get saturated with oil quickly. I may replace it in future with the one you suggest, but with the other costs involved in getting it on the road this spring, I'll need to save some of these items until later.

 

I will also have the VCT Elim for the SVT and ZX2 / Contour back in stock next week so you can install adj cam gears on both cams

 

Tom

 

In future I will most definitely be looking for the additional power, and deleting the VCT, but the block in my car says it's from an '01 Focus. Do you have a link I can follow for some info?

 

 

 

Edit: Edited responses to combine them into one reply.

Edited April 26, 2012 by Jackal

[1turbofocus]

I would cut the very bottom off your PCV and take the plunger and spring out and put a 3/8 hose on the PCV install it in the breather cannister and run the hose up over the top raid hose then down to the ground or to a catch can/bottle this will be cheap and easy

 

What are you using to tune this engine , stock ECU or after market ?

 

There wasent a Focus that ever came with a VCT other then the SVT Focus and the SVT Focus VCT was on the Intake Cam where yours should have the VCT on the Exh Cam

 

Tom

[Jackal]

I would cut the very bottom off your PCV and take the plunger and spring out and put a 3/8 hose on the PCV install it in the breather cannister and run the hose up over the top raid hose then down to the ground or to a catch can/bottle this will be cheap and easy

 

What are you using to tune this engine , stock ECU or after market ?

 

There wasent a Focus that ever came with a VCT other then the SVT Focus and the SVT Focus VCT was on the Intake Cam where yours should have the VCT on the Exh Cam

 

Tom

 

I am going to be running a Haltech P1000.

 

That's what i thought. Ford checked the numbers themselves though. I am left to think there was a Canadian version of the Focus that had VCT or that the head was put on after the fact.

 

Regardless, In a year or two the VCT comes off, and I'll be looking to build some NA horsepower.

 

I just picked up the bushing over the lunch hour. amazing the trouble over such a small part.

[1turbofocus]

If you havent bought the haltech I would go with the stock ECU unless you have ITB

 

Nope there was never a Focus anywhere in the world with VCT on the Exh cam

 

Tom

[Jackal]

If you havent bought the haltech I would go with the stock ECU unless you have ITB

 

Nope there was never a Focus anywhere in the world with VCT on the Exh cam

 

Tom

 

Running the Jenvey ITB's, not the stock intake.

 

Somehow I have a Focus block with a VCT. Not sure how then.

[1turbofocus]

Whats your casting # , Most all Focus Parts start with a casting of "YS"

 

Tom

[Jackal]

RFYS4G6015AA is the number she ended up using at the dealership. It is the number stamped in three rows with only AA in the bottom row. It is stamped on the upper left side of the block when looking at the exhaust side.

 

I have a couple numbers stamped on the flat spot down by the starter as well though. One is very clear and the other isn't. she couldn't find either of these numbers in the system though.