s2k7 Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 I need to replace my stud and I have a Westfield. Anyone here knows what is the stock wheel stud "Knurl" diameter size of a Westfield? I'm sure Caterham has the same stud diameter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slomove Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 (edited) I need to replace my stud.... It is an age thing. But as far as I know they are not easy to replace. But what has that do with Se7ens? Edited May 17, 2014 by slomove Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off Road SHO Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 Notwithstanding what slomove said, I don't believe you go by the diameter of the splines, you go by and drill the hole according to the diameter of the stud where there are no splines. Other wise the splines will have nothing to swedge themselves in to. (that has got to be the worst sentence I have ever typed) Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xcarguy Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 I need to replace my stud and I have a Westfield. Anyone here knows what is the stock wheel stud "Knurl" diameter size of a Westfield? I'm sure Caterham has the same stud diameter. s2k7, Need more info; front, rear hub? Miata based, etc? You may want to send slngsht and NVP66S a pm (slngsht owns a Westie and NVP66S, aka Dan, is building a winderful example) as each may be able to lend assistance. Also, here is a link to a build thread that may help (look about 3/4 down the page on the link): http://www.westfield-build.com/builddiary0603.htm . . . . . And, Dorman may be able to match your stud, but don't try them tonight, their site is down for maiintenance: http://www.dormanproducts.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2k7 Posted May 17, 2014 Author Share Posted May 17, 2014 "You may want to send slngsht and NVP66S" Good idea..he's in the build process. arigato ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVP66S Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 Please allow me to take this back to the public forum, as others may have a better answer than I do. That's the press knurl on the wheel stud in the tinypic, and you are looking for the studs to match your holes, correct? Mine were pressed in at the Mazda factory, as my WF uses the uprights and spindles from the donor MX5. Other WFs use other spindles and I don't know how standard the auto industry is on this. I would NOT assume that yours and mine are the same. If you have the hub with holes and need to buy the studs, you need to measure your hole diameter and buy the studs that are designed to press into that hole. The amount of interference for a tight press will have been calculated by the stud manufacturer. I know of 2 good ways to measure hole diameter. Unfortunately, both need tools not found in the average home shop. One is to use a gauge pin set like this: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=335&PMITEM=326-1332 and the other uses a small hole gauge and a micrometer. http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=615-6260&PMPXNO=950942&PARTPG=INLMK3 I don't know where you are, but I would be happy to measure your holes (but not Slomove's stud :ack:). Any other ideas out there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2k7 Posted May 17, 2014 Author Share Posted May 17, 2014 Thank u Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klasik-69 Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 Notwithstanding what slomove said, I don't believe you go by the diameter of the splines, you go by and drill the hole according to the diameter of the stud where there are no splines. Other wise the splines will have nothing to swedge themselves in to. (that has got to be the worst sentence I have ever typed) Tom Not dealing with the sentence structure, you are quite right about the hole being the controlling dimension. You can easily measure the hole with a relatively inexpensive dial caliper from Harbor Freight. The knurling or splines are the grip part that is pressed into the hole and keeps the stud from turning or falling out. Some of the studs are available in longer sizes, and racing studs are the longest with the end projection being threadless, thus allowing for faster starting of the lug nut avoiding cross threading. Longer is better than too short since you can always cut them down to the size you need if your lug nuts are end-capped like many of the Koenig wheel lug nuts are. Most studs seem to be threaded in 1/2-20 if using SAE threading or 12 mm if metric. Some old US hubs used 7/16" studs but that's rare. The length of the studs seem to be the greatest variable. Some of the more exotic cars used stepped studs whereby the base with the knurling had a larger diameter and then the threaded part that the wheel lug nuts mount onto were a smaller diameter. These are rare and I doubt you have that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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