Old Yellow

I ran mine one time about f years ago before bumping up the power but I don't remember what it ran and I was using some 15" 10 year old slicks. I do remember I left a supercharged nitro injected Nissan 240 in the dust but what that means I don't know. It seems that I ran about 8.0 sec does that sound about right??? It's just been too long and I don't do the drag strip just autocross. That was in another life about 40 years ago. I don't have any 13" wheels that I could put a street tire on the front with. I don't think it would be helpful to run with 10' sticky slicks on the front. Mabybe one of these days I will go to the junk yard and try to find a couple of rims that will fit the Toyota hubs.

I just got my new set of Hoosier 13' X 10 slicks mounted today. They sure are getting expensive. alomost $200 bucks each plus shipping. It will be interesting to see if the 255hp rotary will spin them in second gear now that I have replaced the 5:33 rear end with the stock 4:10 Supra rear gearing. I was always running out of rpm in second gear on the autocross course. It would be also be interesting to see how the LS1 engined Rotus and my rotary would compare woth your approximate 50hp difference. Mine weighs 1525lbs. I would imagine that it will be hard to to get traction on the LS1 powered car.

In order to get a quick disconnect I'm going to cut the shaft between the dash and fire wall. It's 18mm and I will get a adaptor machined by a friend to connect a 18mm and 3/4" shaft. Then I can get a 3/4 shaft to come out or the dash and weld a quick disconnect adaptor on to it. I may have to turn the end down to 5/8" as that is the diameter of the quick disconnect adaptor I have. The existing turn signal may have to go if the shroud that is attached to the existing steering wheel adaptor won't fit. It covers the cup like piece that is on the steering wheel side of the dash. If that has to go I'll put a toggle switch on the dash to handle the turn signals. there may be some type of a module under the dash as there's only a left and right wire coming off the switch plus a power source and I think it takes more than that to normally run turn signals??? The existing Grant steering wheel adaptor looks like it is made to fit a Toyota steering shaft with a taper and splines. It looks like there is only two wires coming off the switch. It's nice to look at the wires and see that they are stamped with their function.

Whwere is the turn signal switch. I would like to inatall a removable steering wheel. I have the parts but the turn signal switch is on the column. I probably need to revamp the whole thing as the shaft coming from the eg compartment is welded to a flex cable type connection that from what I understand came from a old Pinto???. From what I can see that doesn't come apart. If I \weld the quick disconnect fittings I have I think I might have a problam with the turn signals as they are on a stalk the comes out of a plastic surround on the column. I probably need to replace that with U joints under the dash and put the switch on the dash face. Any suggestions on how others have routed the connection to the steering ? I really don't need the anti theft system as I don't drive it on the street and don't have a trunk to put the wheel in anyway. I just pull the distributor rotor if I need to do something. It's hard to come up with one for a rotary in a flash.

Can't remember right now. They are double adjustable Koni's and were over $2000 for the four of them. You might not want to spend that much. I might can find the info. I just got back from the coast and brought the boat back to do a little work on it. I'll try to find the info if you are interested. You probablay can find some cheaper and also get away with singl adjustable ones.

250lb on the front and I believe 180's on the rear. Just remember that if you go to change shocks you might have a problem. the originals use a 5/8" bolt thru them and new Koni's and I believe most others use I believe a 1/2" bolt. I had to have them weld larger mounts on the top and bottom when I upgraded. It cost me about $50 each shock for that and they had to special order the mounts.

I'm changing it now. Installing 4.10 in place of 5.33 diff and moving the TRD LSD over to the replacement one. It has lots of little dings and paint chips on it from autocrossing it but that's all I do with it. I would like more leg room. I have to keep my foot on the clutch pedal all the time. Joe Worsley

I got a original Supra rear from one of the list folks. I have to take my TRD LSD out of the old one and put it in the replacement. I think it's a 4.10 which might be a little better than my 5.33 that's in it now. I have a little trouble running out of RPM in 2nd gear on the autocross courses. Right now I start out in second and it spins the 10" Hoosier slicks pretty hard. Joe

My 90 has the multiple pannels which was great when a spring broke where the shifter ball fits preventing me from getting inot reverse. the Toyota folks by the way said that is a common thing to happen. I know the bottom of the car coveris a bitch. I'm removing the differential carrier unit to change the gear ratio and it'covered with one piece with lots of pop rivits. I was able to disconnect the drive shaft and move it forward and hopefully I can get the carrier unit out without having to disconnect the axle from the frame. Joe Worsley

I have upload info on the brake upgrade Dennis has offered for the Rotusto the files section of the Rotus Yahoo groups files section. Joe Worsley

I guess if you were fool enough to take it out I shouldn't feed stupid for going to the coast and taking the boat out to try to catch a big Tuna next Tuesday. I think it's took cold to go but I can't resist it just like you. If I had street tires for the Rotus I would probably do it too.

The yellow one is mine before I started autocrossing it. It looks a little worse for wear now. The right rear fender was crushed in but repaired close to new but not painted. Autocrossing is hard on car bodies and paint. the paint on tne fenders has been sandblasted and there are several dings where rocks wer slung up under the fenders. Joe

I modified my steering Ratio by moving the attach point for the steering rack rods bac toward the spindle. I actually had someone make me new arms coming of the spindle assy. The hole in it for the steering arms has to be bored and then tapered with a automotive taper. I just happened to find a machine shop that had the taper tool.

Here's a couple of pages I scanned in for the different gears. I guess I'll have to email it to you as it doesn't seem to want to attach. You will need TR8/TR7 part #22G1486 (GEAR HOLDER, AAU2304 ( SEAL) AND 22G1711 (HOLD DOWN BRACKET/FORK) I'm not sure what the speedo cable fitting is like. Probably square. Also a output gear for the cable to hook to. You should be abvle to get them from Ted Schumacher - he sells a lot of new and used parts. It's TS Imported (800) 384-3022 If your speedo is programable it won't matter a lot what gear you get but you could try to match the right ones up. He can probably get you one from a TR8 or TR8. I'm sure he has old transmissions around. Just mention my name - It won't get it any cheaper for you but he won't run you around a circle if you do. Tr8's had a 3.08 rear and Try's has a 3.45 for auto and 3.90 for stick usually with 13" tires. Joe

what you need is the gear that fits in the tranny,the clamp the correct gear. What is the rear end gear ratio the tire diameter and what color is the gear in the transmission White or Black? You also need to know the tire diameter. I guess you cna get a programable speedometer which you may already have. There are several different gears that go in the transmission and two gears for the tail shaft as I mentioned above. These were probably based on the use of 13" tires. If you have the programable speedo you can correct for any setup of gears. The first step is to find out if it's programable. Otherwise you will have to work of finding the correct gears to use. I can probably help you find the gear holder and hold down bracket for you There should be someone on here that has the parts. Are you changing it to a Rover engine??

I believe Frank told me that the steering shaft came loose at the collapsable portion that was held with a set screw. He had it welded to prevent that again. Mine has been tack welded.

I think they rebuilt it after Frank said he had a racing accident with it.

My seats were made by Rotus and consist of just a covered form for the seat and a straight across back. Joe

I have panasports Joe

I think he detuned the engine some to make it more streetable. He told me one time that it was putting out about 250hp in race form. Joe

Just help a friend put one those same seats in a Locost. The only problem is it's not adjustable. Joe Worsley

There are two going to the rear and the cross brace. The tubing thickness is also checked by a little hole that is drilled in the roll bar You can probably find the info by doing a search for the SCCA roll bar specs. Joe

Mine does but it was specified to be built that way. Joe Worsley

I think the Rotus in Fla is owned by Frank Nolfi. If so I believe it has been restored and the engine rebuilt. He raced it some aways back. It's supposed to be pretty lively. He wanted about $30 for it a couple of years ago but I doubt that it will sell for that. Joe

13 X 10 20 1/2 height